200ci Degree the cam?

[63 Sprint]

Dustyford to do & check off list:
(tests and findings will be posted here for reference)

Engine Initial Timing 10-12 degrees ok

• Timing mark on flywheel damper: ok

• Engine Compression: ok

• Camshaft Degree: ok

• Fuel Pressure: 3 lbs. ok

• Distributor: run vacuum canister leak down test. ok

• Fuel: Using ethanol free. questionable

• Ignition Coil Test: ok



Do these tests in order:

1• Test Carburetor Idle Circuit:

2• Exhaust Restriction Test:
Remove Exhaust Down pipe from exhaust manifold outlet.

3• Check the vacuum at Wide Open Throttle under full load @ 3,000 rpm on the highway for 5 to 10 seconds.

To do the test:
Buy a cheap small roll of vacuum hose so you’re able to mount the vacuum gauge on the windshield with duct tape. Mount the gauge where you’re able to see it without obstructing your view.

Note:
The vacuum hose should be able to be ran between the fender and side of hood or between back of hood and near fire wall without pinching the hose totally shut.

 

[awasson]

I am introducing ported vacuum at idle if I run it over 550

Oh wow... That is a deal breaker for a higher idle then. Mine doesn't introduce ported vacuum until a little further on.

EDIT: @63 Sprint brings some excellent thoughts about that regarding the idle circuit.

 

[DON]

IMO if you are have to increase the idle screw far enough together into ported vacuum and are at 550 rpm, something is wrong. It goes back to getting a AF meter, it will tell you a lot about what is going on with the carb

 

[Frank]

IMO if you are have to increase the idle screw far enough together into ported vacuum and are at 550 rpm, something is wrong. It goes back to getting a AF meter, it will tell you a lot about what is going on with the carb

Oh wow... That is a deal breaker for a higher idle then. Mine doesn't introduce ported vacuum until a little further on.

EDIT: @63 Sprint brings some excellent thoughts about that regarding the idle circuit.

Why so much throttle for a slow idle? We've veered off onto carburetor. Maybe. Remember where this started: late valve timing, late ignition timing, significant exhaust restriction. None of which, as far as I can discern, have been sufficiently tested and checked off the potential-cause list.

SOMETHING is "holding the engine back". Carb transition circuit and ported vacuum active to = 550 rpm. . Just another symptom that aligns with all the others in this thread.

A carb idle circuit may play a role here, but will not be a factor with a lethargic engine under attempted heavy load.

 

[63 Sprint]

Frank, this is why the tests need to be preformed that is written on the to do list that is in post #161. And they need to be done properly.

Yes, an idle circuit can be malfunctioning and an engine will run once the throttle is opened enough to transition in the main circuit. But possibly, not very well.

I went through this thread many times looking and searching for a cause. A matter of fact. I spent hours. And, I’m surprised that something so simple was overlooked. Even I missed this. We will find out if it’s the problem or not once the test is done.

“Sometimes people question why a certain procedure should be done in a certain way when they should just do what they have been asked to do.”

We have some of the best heads working on the issues. It turns out that there could also be valve spring issues that is preventing the engine to rev. But I highly doubt that the springs are causing the idle issues. So it seems like it’s very likely that there are multiple issues that need to be addressed to get the engine running properly.

The reason why we’re asking for inches of manifold vacuum at wide open throttle is we want to rule out the possibility that carburetor might be too small.

Again , we won’t know until all tests are done.

 

[Dustyford]

Frank, this is why the tests need to be preformed that is written on the to do list that is in post #161. And they need to be done properly.

Yes, an idle circuit can be malfunctioning and an engine will run once the throttle is opened enough to transition in the main circuit. But possibly, not very well.

I went through this thread many times looking and searching for a cause. A matter of fact. I spent hours. And, I’m surprised that something so simple was overlooked. Even I missed this. We will find out if it’s the problem or not once the test is done.

“Sometimes people question why a certain procedure should be done in a certain way. When they should just do what they have been asked to do.”

We have some of the best heads working on the issues. It turns out that there could also be valve spring issues that is preventing the engine to rev. But I highly doubt that the springs are causing the idle issues. So it seems like it’s very likely that there are multiple issues that need to be addressed to get the engine running properly.

The reason why we’re asking for inches of manifold vacuum at wide open throttle is the carburetor could be too small.

Again , we won’t know until all tests are done.

Working on it guys. I hope to get the car running today. I appreciate everyone’s help. I have been bombarded with advice and my brain is twisted up in the game.

 

[63 Sprint]

One step at a time. Rule out issues by process of elimination.

 

[Dustyford]

Dustyford to do & check off list:
(tests and findings will be posted here for reference)

Engine Initial Timing 10-12 degrees ok

• Timing mark on flywheel damper: ok

• Engine Compression: ok

• Camshaft Degree: ok

• Fuel Pressure: 3 lbs. ok

• Distributor: run vacuum canister leak down test. ok

• Fuel: Using ethanol free. questionable

• Ignition Coil Test: ok



Do these tests in order:

1• Test Carburetor Idle Circuit:

2• Exhaust Restriction Test:
Remove Exhaust Down pipe from exhaust manifold outlet.

3• Check the vacuum at Wide Open Throttle under full load @ 3,000 rpm on the highway for 5 to 10 seconds.

To do the test:
Buy a cheap small roll of vacuum hose so you’re able to mount the vacuum gauge on the windshield with duct tape. Mount the gauge where you’re able to see it without obstructing your view.

Note:
The vacuum hose should be able to be ran between the fender and side of hood or between back of hood and near fire wall without pinching the hose totally shut.

I got her running. I raised timing to 13.5* to get idle to 650. I have fluttering 14” at idle. I played with the idle mixture. I started at 1 1/2 turns out. I went 1/2 turn in and it stalled. I went out to 1 3/4 where I got best lean idle and vacuum reading. I went a total of 3 1/2 turns out with no change in rpm or vacuum. Next will be the exhaust restriction test. Another day