All Small Six Help! Did I just screw up my new build?

[DON]

You could eliminate the pump, get an external fuel tank. From a motorcycle, lawnmower, anything that has a hose barb, then just use gravity feed it.
Don’t get discouraged, there is progress- the videos helped a lot

 

[63 Sprint]

Some of us just talked about that earlier. It should supply enough fuel to idle the engine.

 

[sixtseventwo4d]

If the crankcase has become laden with raw fuel fumes, then the PCV will be drawing that for reburning. This will cause an overrich idle. It also sounds like the ign timing needs advancing.

 

[WillingnessLimp]

@63 Sprint yeah, it did clear out and adjusted to throttle position with high rpms... I guess I didn't expect it to jump up so much.
So I got carb back in November and already sent that one to Redline and got another one from them. I will contact them again, see what they can suggest. Last time they suggested to put Weber regulator (about $130), but it has the same limitation for inlet pressure.
Yes, that's the one I have 12-804. You are right, I might have too much inlet pressure. Would it be crazy to place another fuel pressure regulator after the pump before this one? Let's say just step up to the next range 4-9psi? I believe there is Holley 12-803 or something similar.

I might also put another fuel pressure gauge after the pump to see what its pushing (couple months ago I wanted to do that, but ended up skipping it).
Or as you suggested before - just install electric fuel pump, which possibly might solve all those issues...

@pmuller9 thank you, will try that as well

@sixtseventwo4d I think it started better on the first video - when I completely removed the PCV and tied it together to stop the vacuum. But I was getting smoke from the open PCV port on the valve cover - not pleasant to breathe in lol
I don't think I can adjust timing until I get it to idle on idle circuit without holding the throttle open.

@DON something like Auxiliary Gas Tank and just hang in and directly connect to the carb (or to the filter before carb)?

 

[63 Sprint]

Let’s stay focused on the root of the problem.
The PCV is not the root of the problem.

Simple trouble shooting in the order below:
#1– Fuel supply pressure.
#2– Carburetor setup and adjustment.

We just came to the conclusion that cutting off the fuel supply leaned out the engine enough that it cleared out and started running as it should. That is where effort needs to be concentrated on at this time. Not anything else. When fuel supply is corrected or confirmed that it’s not the problem. Then one moves to step #2. Not anything else.

 

[63 Sprint]

@63 Sprint yeah, it did clear out and adjusted to throttle position with high rpms... I guess I didn't expect it to jump up so much.

This is exactly what I expected.

So I got carb back in November and already sent that one to Redline and got another one from them. I will contact them again, see what they can suggest. Last time they suggested to put Weber regulator (about $130), but it has the same limitation for inlet pressure.

I don’t believe that you mentioned that Redline sent you another carburetor. Knowing this would have pointed out that the carburetor might not have been the issue in the beginning.

Yes, that's the one I have 12-804. You are right, I might have too much inlet pressure.

That is correct.

Would it be crazy to place another fuel pressure regulator after the pump before this one? Let's say just step up to the next range 4-9psi? I believe there is Holley 12-803 or something similar.

The one you have should work fine. Do not change it.

I might also put another fuel pressure gauge after the pump to see what its pushing (couple months ago I wanted to do that, but ended up skipping it).

No reason to do that. Save your money. Pressure Gauges will show average pressure. Not peaks.

Or as you suggested before - just install electric fuel pump, which possibly might solve all those issues...

That is correct.

 

[vssman]

I would try a low pressure “clickity clack” electric fuel pump or, if cost isn’t a huge concern, a Holley 1.5 - 4 psi electric pump and try it right at the mechanical pump taking the inlet and outlet off of the mechanical pump and connecting it to the electric. Of course, you would get the same results on the test by using a fuel tank off of a mower or snowblower.

 

[Jmustang_65]

I would advise to go with a weber fuel pressure regulator. These carbs are so sensitive if pressure isn't set to 1-3 psi.

Weber Fuel Pressure Regulator | Vintage Inlines

This Redline/Weber fuel regulator has a range of 1.5-8.5 psi, however it comes pre-set at 3 psi, which is perfect for Weber carb applications. Includes 5/16" fuel line fittings and mounting hardware.

www.vintageinlines.com

 

[63 Sprint]

I would try a low pressure “clickity clack” electric fuel pump or, if cost isn’t a huge concern, a Holley 1.5 - 4 psi electric pump and try it right at the mechanical pump taking the inlet and outlet off of the mechanical pump and connecting it to the electric. Of course, you would get the same results on the test by using a fuel tank off of a mower or snowblower.

The WilliingnessLimp already has information on the correct electric pump to use.

I would advise to go with a weber fuel pressure regulator. These carbs are so sensitive if pressure isn't set to 1-3 psi.

Weber Fuel Pressure Regulator | Vintage Inlines

This Redline/Weber fuel regulator has a range of 1.5-8.5 psi, however it comes pre-set at 3 psi, which is perfect for Weber carb applications. Includes 5/16" fuel line fittings and mounting hardware.

www.vintageinlines.com

WillingnessLimp has a regulator that is compatible for the Weber carburetor. It’s within spec.

I spoke with Redline and mentioned what WillingnessLimp is going through.
They said to have him give them a call.

I will send WillingnessLimp the contact information by PM.

 

[63 Sprint]

Guys, just in case, you know there is nothing wrong using a Holley 350

Here is the adapter that will work with a Holley 350, 2300 style, 2 barrel carburetor.

 

[vssman]

The WilliingnessLimp already has information on the correct electric pump to use.



WillingnessLimp has a regulator that is compatible for the Weber carburetor. It’s within spec.

I spoke with Redline and mentioned what WillingnessLimp is going through.
They said to have him give them a call.

I will send WillingnessLimp the contact information by PM.

My suggestion was purely if he didn’t want, or is unable to, spend a lot on an electric pump. The “clickity clacks” will get you by in a pinch.

 

[63 Sprint]

Redline did ask if the floats are brass or plastic. The reason is Weber did not notify Redline of the change. Plastic floats are being damaged by ethanol fuel. Redline informed me that some plastic floats needed to be replaced within a year. Redline does have brass floats as a replacement.

What it going on with today’s manufacturing?

 

[63 Sprint]

My suggestion was purely if he didn’t want, or is unable to, spend a lot on an electric pump. The “clickity clacks” will get you by in a pinch.

Thanks,
We already discussed which electric fuel pump to use in post #180. It’s getting hard for all of us to remember what has been discussed. But we’re getting there.

Willingnesslimp,
I just noticed that you are running a regulator with a pressure gauge before the carburetor. The way it looks is it’s plumbed as a dead head system (without a return line). Such a system will not work with your Weber carburetor that has a mechanical fuel pump.

My recommendation is start with a facet electric fuel pump and keep the regulator as it is.

Here is a fuel pump that should work deadhead with your regulator.

Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2.0-4.5 psi, Stainless | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies

Come check out our Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2.0-4.5 psi, Stainless at Pegasus Auto Racing.

www.pegasusautoracing.com

If that doesn’t work, then I would recommend replacing the regulator with one that will allow a return to the tank.

 

[WillingnessLimp]

@63 Sprint somewhere in the thread I did say about getting a new carb from them. But I think what threw me off is that I pretty much just put new carb on the same set up I’ve had with the other carb and couldn’t get the car running. The carb I sent them was faulty - throttle blades would not close completely and progression ports were exposed all the time. But car idled (at about 900 rpm) and drove. Nothing close to what I’m experiencing now.

Just in case, I have plastic floats.

@Jmustang_65 yes, they suggested it. But it’s pretty much the same as Holley. And they require the same top inlet pressure of no more than 7 psi