rickwrench
Famous Member
I've been getting around 32-33mpg on the highway. 5th gear, tires at 36psi (last time I checked), and I've been cruising at about 63-65mph.
My wife was working up in Santa Rosa most of the winter (nooooo fuuuuun) and I made many trips up there. It's 101 miles from our house in the east bay up to where she was staying, and averaged about 210 miles each round trip, sometimes a little more depending on where we ate. I filled up when I left and filled up when I got home the next day, and I never used more than 6.5 gallons each trip. Cruising at only 65 takes some practice, let me tell you. I knew I was getting 30+ sometimes but I wasn't sure my highway mileage was consistently that good until I tested it over and over (and over) this last winter.
Rick(wrench)
My wife was working up in Santa Rosa most of the winter (nooooo fuuuuun) and I made many trips up there. It's 101 miles from our house in the east bay up to where she was staying, and averaged about 210 miles each round trip, sometimes a little more depending on where we ate. I filled up when I left and filled up when I got home the next day, and I never used more than 6.5 gallons each trip. Cruising at only 65 takes some practice, let me tell you. I knew I was getting 30+ sometimes but I wasn't sure my highway mileage was consistently that good until I tested it over and over (and over) this last winter.
Rick(wrench)
A
Anonymous
Guest
Rick,
Are you saying add hydrolic lifters, push rods, rocker's ect. from the donor 200/250 six? And will a newer head swap, create any more horsepower?
:
Scott
Are you saying add hydrolic lifters, push rods, rocker's ect. from the donor 200/250 six? And will a newer head swap, create any more horsepower?
: Scott
rickwrench
Famous Member
You've got a cam designed for solid lifters, and it's in the block. A fair bit more work than just a head swap to remove. If you swap the solids for new hydraulics without changing the cam, you are going to lose some lift and duration. Use the lifters, pushrods, and rocker assembly from your old head (if you have to swap) on the "new" head. Swapping used lifters is a no-no. Lifters mate to the cam lobe they ride on. The solid lifters aren't much fuss once they are set, maybe set the lash every six months, if you remember, if not, there sure are a lot of 60-62 falcons running around that haven't had the valves adjusted in... 35 years? They are bit noisier when cold and if you hear a new -tick-tick-tick- you'll know what to do. Plus, solid lifters don't pump up and float the valves at high rpm.
Late heads have bigger valves, hardened valve seats, better chamber design, bigger runners, a bigger log volume, and a bigger carb hole on the log. Look for a D8 (1978) or later head if you want a cheap upgrade.
Rick(wrench)
Late heads have bigger valves, hardened valve seats, better chamber design, bigger runners, a bigger log volume, and a bigger carb hole on the log. Look for a D8 (1978) or later head if you want a cheap upgrade.
Rick(wrench)
from what I understand the solid cam blocks don't have galleys for hyd lifters. so this leaves you with a solid cam I think. my 62 had a solid cam 170 in it and I abused the crap out of it for 4 years and it held up fine. I lost 10# of oil pressure teh first summer from cleaning out the galleys with all their sludge...after that it has held steady. only upgrades I had was a decked head (.020"), steal gasket, pertronix, 1100 autolite carb, 2" exhaust and an alternator. the duraspark won't fit in your block either. I only got around 19mpg on the highway (where I do 90% of my driving) but run at about 75-80mph. I drive back and forth from school nonstop (just shy of 300 miles each way) only issues I have had are starters going out once a year (10 min job to fix though) it has been super reliable. I would pull the valve cover and check the lash and make sure you are getting oil on top. mine wasn't and after one set of pushrods I had to pull the head and get it rebuilt.
so a good tune up and a better carb and a header should give you a nice running car for your son. I would def go over the whole brake system and make sure it is safe.
so a good tune up and a better carb and a header should give you a nice running car for your son. I would def go over the whole brake system and make sure it is safe.
A
Anonymous
Guest
More questions, clearing up a little confusion.
Is a200/250 a direct bolt in swap? Will the flywheel /clutch from my 144/170 bolt on to the 200/250 then to the tranny? Same starter, motor mounts, exhaust manifold?
Also I have a '76ish Mercury Capri, out in my yard. I was wondering if the disc brakes off it, might serve for any brake upgrade parts? seems like the same 4 lug pattern?
Thanks again Scott
Is a200/250 a direct bolt in swap? Will the flywheel /clutch from my 144/170 bolt on to the 200/250 then to the tranny? Same starter, motor mounts, exhaust manifold?
Also I have a '76ish Mercury Capri, out in my yard. I was wondering if the disc brakes off it, might serve for any brake upgrade parts? seems like the same 4 lug pattern?
Thanks again Scott
A
Anonymous
Guest
The 144/170/200(w/ high mount starter) motors have the same external dimensions so 200 would simply be a drop in. The 250 is taller and wider and not as easy to drop in, but it can be done. You'll have to figure out which motor mounts/frame mounts to use to make it fit properly.
I'm a c4 slush box guy so somebody else will give you the info on the tranny stuff.
I'm a c4 slush box guy so somebody else will give you the info on the tranny stuff.
Similar threads
