All Six Help! Pinging & Detonation

This applies to all sixes

Radiator Springs

New member
Hello all.
I could sure use some help please.
I have a 65 Falcon W/200, Stock Load A Matic Dizzy and 1100 Autolite carb.

A year ago, I installed a New (not rebuilt) Cardone Distributor.
Car was driving fine till about a month ago.
Upon acceleration, I now have mild pinging that will not go away.
I've always had the timing advanced 10 degrees.
So, to try and help, I backed it down to 6 degrees. Didn't Help.
Bought a tank of higher octane gas 91........................Didn't Help.
Changed the points and condenser..............................Didn't Help.
Changed out the spark control valve...........................Didn't Help.
Installed a motorcraft re-built dissy..............................Didn't Help.

What was very weird was....when setting the timing, I noticed when I reved the engine, the timing advanced.
I had the vacuum disconnected and the dizzy does not have mechanical advance, only vacuum, so I was perplexed why this was occurring.
Any help would be appreciated.
 
Have you done a compression test yet? Have you checked the timing chains condistion?
 
Have you done a compression test yet? Have you checked the timing chains condistion?
Hi bubba,
I haven't checked the timing chain or done a compression test.
What will that tell me?
I understood that if the timing chain jumps, it would only retard the timing, not advance it.
Is that right?
 
The Compression Test would tell you what the cranking compression PSI is now. If it shows much of a differance than normal for a stock engine in good condistion i.e. Higher PSI this could indicate that there is a lot of carbon build up in the combustion chambers. Yes a loose timing chain can retard the cam timing but it's also easy to check without much more than removing the distrbitor cap and truning the engine back and forth. if you want to post a picture of the inside of the Distribitor that might be some help to. There only a few things that can cause what your experiencing. Best of luck.
 
I have no experiance with the Load o matic advance system, that would be in bubbas wheel house... Could it be that the advance plate is sliding around by its self, when it is not suppose to ?... Since you say you replaced the distributor a while back, we all know how crappy parts have gotten anymore... I just saw you said you replaced the Cardone with a Motorcraft unit, and it didnt help either... Interesting problem for sure... Run a water trickle and or some GM upper cylinder cleaner ( or something like it ) down the Carburator to de-carbonize. Could be it needs it ?
 
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Thanks for the tip Farmer.
Didn't mention in my first post but last week I did pour a can of top end cleaner in the carb with the engine running.
Let it heat soak for 4 hours then drove around. Pinging was still there.
I may need to do it again before I give up on the cleaner. Might be so carbonized that it needs more then one application.
 
Could it be that your coolant temp is too high ?... Wrong spark plugs, running too hot ?.. Im just throwing things out that pop into my thick head.
 
The loadamatic is junk, but as Bubba said lets get some cranking compression numbers.
Have the engine warm, remove all plugs, disconnect the + wire to the coil. Hold throttle wide open.
Also Bring #1 piston to TDC on the compression stroke. Is the timing on the damper @ zero on the timing cover?
 
"...Stock Load A Matic Dizzy and 1100 Autolite carb..."
& the 1100 = SCV equiped? I ask to assume no thing.
"...not have mechanical advance, only vacuum..." is correct....but, main point here is... got correct match up now?
 
I'm shooting straight from the hip here with what info your providing and in no way am I as up on your particulars as the rest of these guys here: this sounds like a lean condition is occurring.
 
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Can you get an A/F test with a wideband tester. A lean mixture will definitely cause your problem. The ethanol fuel makes it worse.
Is the power valve spring loaded rod have movement?
 
Hi everyone.
Did a test today to see how much slack the timing chain has.
After rotating the crank and lining up the timing mark on the pully to 0 degrees. I then moved the crank the opposite way and found the pointer moves 12 degrees before the rotor moves...which seems like too much.
That being said, I wouldn't think that is the cause of my issue. I will have time to do a static compression test tomorrow and will post results.
Also, have to check for a vaccum leak as that seems to be the consensus from the responses.
 
Yes you are right thats not good with it being that loose you likely wont get a very accurate compression test reading with that much chain slop. In my OPIN I would start making some plans and set some time aside to get that timing chain and gear set changed out for a brand new set. That's enough slop to make some difference in cam timing effecting how good that engine could run. Also being that it's that loose it's only going to be a matter of time until that chain finally decides to come apart or jump time, might even leave you stranded somewhere needing a tow. Best of luck.
 
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