HELP, up the creek with no paddle....

[Anonymous]

I have a 67 ranchero that originally came with a 200. The head cracked at one of the front head bolts so I had water flying out of my block.

I thought I would get smart and go to the pick a part and buy a 170 block out of a '63 comet(?). It had an automatic transmission and I have a 3 on the tree.

After swapping all the stuff over from my engine (too much crap to state here) I was looking at the flywheel and bell housing and just about crapped my pants --- no way ---- it just isn' t gonna work. My big delima is I just sold my house and I have to move out in a week.

Is there anything I can do short of a miracle to make these two get along?

 

[Anonymous]

Hmm, tough one. Ford added a new pattern to the these engines in 1966. Unfortunately, you can't use later bellhousings (such as the one on your '67 Ranchero), with early blocks. You'd have to use an early bellhousing (pre-'67) and the early flywheel (8.5" recessed face unit). However, then your tranmssion won't fit the bellhousing - you would need an adapter plate.

If it's just your head that cracked, why not just use the head from the 170? At least for now...

 

[Anonymous]

actually, it is the block that has the crack, not the head. The only other thing I can think of is going back to the pick a part and find another manual tranny that has the old bell housing. my only questions are, 1. will this fit in my ranchero, and 2 are there any other things I will have problems with.

When I first read about these engines, I thought the 144, 170, and the 200 where completely interchangable. I should have known that there are always these little mods through the years that can screw with you

 

[Anonymous]

Well, generally speaking, later 200's ARE a direct swap for earlier 144's and 170's. Usually no one goes the other way...

You have a 3.03 3sp tranny now, and need a 2.77 3spd with the smaller bell to make it work. How your shift linkage will fit up to it I don't know. It may hook right up. A lot of guys swap to the 3.03 from the 2.77 with just a bellhousing and tranny swap (assuming that have a later engine with the dual bellhousing pattern on the block).

I don't think you will be happy with the 2.77. It doesn't have a synchronized 1st gear. You have to come to a complete stop to downshift from 2nd to first, which can get annoying. It's also weaker overall.

I think you should go back and find another engine. Any 200 or 170 with a between 1966 and 1980 should work fine for your current transmission setup.

 

[gotta61comet]

I think there is also a difference in flywheel/pressure plate too.
My stock 144 motor has a recessed flywheel and my 66 motor has a flat flywheel. The early bellhousings won't fit the newer flywheel/pressure plate set up. (ask me how i know). I think (i don't know for sure), but the equalizer bar would need some mods too.Then you have to deal with drive shaft lengths..
Find a newer block and save yourself a lot of headaches (Like the ones I'm going through)

Jim

 

[Anonymous]

I suggest that you find the right motor or call a tow truck cause the swap you propose ain't gonna happen in a week.
Mike A

 

[Anonymous]

I went back to the wrecking yard and pulled a tranny off of an old 1960 somthing econoline. it had the properbell housing so I also pulled the fly wheel pressure plate, and clutch plate. I brought them home in hope that I could use the bell housing and some of the other things on the 3.03 tranny to make it work.

Well, the bell housing bolt pattern fits, and thats about it!!!! al from inlinepages.com wrote this:

3-Bolt Starter

For the following swaps, you retain your existing:

- Flywheel
- Bell housing (exceptions listed)
- Block plate
- Starter
- Clutch Fork
- Pressure Plate (although is is recommended that you replace your pressure plate when you replace your clutch disk).

** It is recommended that during the swap, you have your flywheel resurfaced and also replace your pressure plate. The few dollars more that it may cost you are well worth the time and cost that may be needed later if there is a problem with these parts. For the flywheel, when you have it resurfaced, make sure that BOTH surfaces of the flywheel have the same amount of material removed. The flywheel is an 8 1/2" recessed style flywheel and the pressure plate mounting surface is not the same surface as the clutch surface. Failure to do this may result in a slipping clutch. At the same time, have the flywheel checked for a zero imbalance.

For the following swaps, you need the following:

- Adapter Plate (specific ones listed for each category)
- Clutch Disk (Use the 80's 4-cyl clutch disk)
* It has the 8 1/2" diameter to fit the flywheel recess and proper 1 1/16" - 10 spline for the V8
transmissions.
- Pilot Bearing
* For 3.03, Top loader, V8 T-5, SROD, use the one from a '67 Mustang, 200
* For 4-cyl T-5, use the special pilot listed.
- Throwout Bearing ('67 Mustang, 200)

this sounded real promising but he speaks of an adapter plate in a link and the link is now dead. the clutch plate from the '80 4 cyl should be easy to get. Also, I have been looking for another 200 engine or block but they seem to be scarce. Haven't seen one out here in the last six mo. except from Kragen or Pepboys, but they want $1,300, thats too much.

 

[Anonymous]

drop hillbillycats's 250 in there


zooom zooom ( I can say that since ford and mazda have an agreement)

 

[Mike]

The adapter plate referred to in Al's posts was for adapting a T-5 (5 speed).

Mike