Holley 1909

[dbowl]

Been having trouble with a 1100 on a 65 200 and thought I would try out the holley 1909 that was on the original 170 before I went any further with the 1100. The 1100 was allowing the fuel to boil in the bowl and was causing a horrible driving experience. Bad bogging with an eventual dead/flooded motor. I actually could here it boiling and a few times I witnessed fuel being shot out the top brass tube of the carb. It was previously rebuilt 4 months ago. Anyway, my question is in regards to the 1909. I cracked the 1909 open to clean it up a bit. When I tipped it a ball rolled out and I did not see where it came from. All the diagrams I see show only one ball, and it is under the pump rod. The pump and pieces are still attached to the main body. So I would bet the ball in the diagrams is still where it needs to be. This carb also does not appear to have an accelerating pump needle where it is indicated in the diagrams. Would this ball have been used instead of the needle? Any help appreciated.

1962 Sports Futura running a 1965 200.

 

[Vin Man]

I'm not a carb expert but from what I've read here, you're likely going to see some feedback that says you are better off with the 1100.

Is there any kind of a spacer between the carb and the intake? If not, you will likely have the same problem with the 1909. On my car, there was a spacer that actually had coolant running through it out of the heater core. Mine was a 67 Mustang so I don't know what would be different from your car.

Just a thought.

Edit: BTW, where are you located?

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy back Dbowl:

And welcome to The Forum. I can't, off the top of my head, tell you about the location of the ball in your #1909, but I can share some other info.

If you were to get a rebuild kit for your #1909, it would have pictures and diagrams for the where things are sposed to go

A 1909 Holley from a 1962 170 is rated at 150 cfm, significantly down from the 185 cfm rating of a '65 1100. If you're determined to use a Holley one barrel a #1904, from a 1955 - '62 Ford car with either a 215 or a 223 six is rated at 170 cfm. It will have all the simplicity and coolness of your #1909 and 20 more cfm capacity.

Whatever is causing your 1100 to boil off gas will likely do the same to whatever other carb you would use. IIWIYS I'd be inclined to figure out what is causing the heat problem with the current carb. Some thoughts are retarded initial advance setting? leaking choke heat stove? missing gaskets and/or adapters, missing Hot water carb heater? Leaking exhaust manifold under the carb?

Again, welcome. I hope this is helpful to you.

Adios, David

 

[dbowl]

The car was actually running just fine before I replaced the fuel pump. It was leaking on me occasionally. This all started and I thought maybe the pump was bad. I went ahead and put the old one back on and the bogging/dieing problem continued. So now I think it was just a one of those things. The weather here (Missouri) has finally decided to go ahead and stay warm so that is probably not helping things all that much. Actually kind of think it was all coincidence with the fuel pump. Nothing else on the car has been jacked with up until the problem started. Since this started I have replaced rotor, cap, points, condensor and coil. Filters before and after the fuel pump, fuel line from pump to carb is now rubber hose and both the line from pump back to tank has been blown out along with the tank vent line coming off the filler tube. Not sure what the choke stove is. Auto choke doesn’t work anyway and has not since I put the motor in back in January. Carb spacer with coolant tubes attached is still in the original working condition. Carb has also been cleaned on the manifold as well as pulled off and thoroughly cleaned. I want to stay with the 1100 but thought if I could figure out where the damn ball went on the 1909, I would throw it on just to try troubleshoot the situation. I really do think it was probably used instead of the original needle valve originally shown in the diagrams. If someone did have the diagram instructions for a 1909 carb rebuild that would be great. All the things I can get through the net and my books seem to be factory/original diagrams or illustrations.

 

[dbowl]

Well I am back up and running with the 1100. For what it’s worth, I have 3 gaskets under the carb spacer and two between it and the carb. I also bypassed the hoses off of the carb spacer. Adjusted the float in the carb a little over the 1 3/32 called for in the rebuild kit and replaced the vac line from the carb to the distributor with one I had laying around from a 170. Slight adjustment to the dashpot side of the carb too. Backed it off. On the carb rebuild, I did notice the spark control valve looked a little different then the new one. It actually appeared to be sprung. Meaning, I could actually see part of a spring protruding out of it. All the other spark control valves I have from my carb parts do not appear like this one. All in all it is running great. Even better than before. If I had to bet, I would say that the float was adjusted just a little to high and was flooding the carb. Thanks for your input.