Holley 2300 and 4-wheelin'

[kirkallen143]

Howdy all,

Went out to Hot Springs, Arkansas for a little bronco get-together 4 wheelin' trip and the holley 2300 to my suprise did fairly well. It took the inclines and all without a sputter, but when it was jolted around it would instantly flood. And believe me there were a lot of rocks to go over.
My fuel pressure is at @ 8psi and I know lowering it would help (lowering the fuel level also helps), but what about some of that fuel cell foam that they use in the float bowl? Moroso makes a float bowl extension kit that includes the foam I am talking about.
I am also thinking of trying the autolite 2100 instead of the holley. They seemed flawless when climbing the hills and rocks and most of the V8's were running them. It is just with my application boost is also an issue I have to deal with.
I have the vent extension in the float bowl as well as on top of the carb (the one on top helps w/ a better boost signal) and the float came with a sort of non-bounce spring, too. Just looking for ideas here.
On the otherhand I need lower gears to climb some of those rocks. I just about smoked the rebuilt clutch and pressure plate even with the 4.10 gears. Thanks for any advice.

Kirk

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

what transfer case are you running? can you swap it easily for one with a lower law range in it? or maybe a different gearset in the transfer case?

 

[Stubby]

I would consider building a carter super street pump instead of the super strip, It should have a little less pressure but enough to supply your motor. You might also consider using a smaller diameter neadle and seat. Most Holleys come with a .110. This would help it overcome the higher pressure, but it might also create some problems by spraying thru the smaller neadle.

If you have the carb mounted sideways and install a bowl extension, the foam will help prevent slosh, but you will still have all of the fuel covering up the metering block or piling up in the bowl and trying to uncover the jets. I have seen the foam from fuel cells stop up fuel filters, I would use it in the carb as a last resort. I bet it could stop up the holes in the metering block pretty easy. I don't think you are uncovering the floats or pouring fuel out the vent, I think the bouncing is letting the fuel pump push more than enough fuel past the neadle.

I haven't realy looked at the float design in the 2100 but it might be less susceptable to bouncing. It probably does use a smaller neadle and seat.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

what about EFI?

 

[kirkallen143]

what about EFI?

Oh yeah, there is always that route, but it is the challenge, if you know what I mean. And I have thought about propane, too.
What might be the ticket is just go down and get one of the fuel pressure regulators w/ a boost reference, and not use the one I have for the pump. Then you could pressure down for the hard stuff and back up for the racing/fun stuff. Stubby, I think you are right on the float bouncing and letting more in. The current float is the one for circle track racing that I have installed now. Anyways, it was hard enough trying to drive up those rocks w/ a beer in one hand and the other on the wheel, ha-ha.
I am going to try the 2100 just for kicks. Linc has his ready to roll (the 2100) for his project number II engine, yet time is not on his side it seems. All in fun of the trial and error of this hobby, ain't it fun.

Kirk

 

[Stubby]

Kirk, you have done a great job with your project.

When you are trying the 2100, just remember the float/neadle and seat combo will probably be less tolerant of excess pressure. You will still need to kill off some of the 0 boost pressure. Just my opinion.

When setting the float on the bench.
Turn the float bowl upside down and set the float level with the floor of the bowl, the fuel level should be close to the bottom of the sight plug. Or the top since it is upside down. This way you can visualise how deep the float is submerged.

If you run excess fuel pressure, you will have to submerge more of the float in order to get enough force to close the neadle against the pressure. It is like having a float with less bouyancy(spelling?). This will make it more susceptable to bouncing.

I bet if you pulled your bowl and turned it upside down, the float will be at an angle. If you compare the sight plug to the float you will be able to visualise how deep your float is being submerged.

You can install a smaller neadle and the float will be able to overcome the pressure easier. I would try the neadle or a lower pressure pump or the regulator before I started on a new carb tuning project.

Personaly, I would try the pump first. It is the most logical solution.
The street pump will still feed enough volume.
The strip pump will still have too much pressure.
The regulator would be covering up a problem caused by the pump.
The neadle and seat will not be a standard item and will also be covering up the pump problem.

 

[kirkallen143]

Stubby, fantastic replies there. You know, it is like I want to have my cake and eat it, too. I have also looked into the dual fuel conversions with propane and gasoline. Not too many how too's on the web, probably because you need a licenced mechanic to actually do the install, that is legally.

A ?, so if I went with the regulator (w/ a bypass & boost referenced) would I be able to lower my psi from the pump to the carb? Kind of unsure on that subject. It seems like if the pump already puts out 8-10psi, how is the regulator going to lessen it down to 3 or 4 psi? Is that why the bypass?
If I could just buy the regulator and get away w/ that, even though the pump is only $70.00, that way I could have some control over the psi's to the carb (Oh boy, another adjustment). And then down the road when the pump does go out, maybe the two pumps innerd's are exchangeable and then can go w/ the lower psi. Wow, sounds like a plan...I will find out if they are. Thanks Stubby for the recommendations, it is good to chat with ya.

Kirk

 

[Stubby]

If you can run a bypass regulator that would be best. Keep fresh cool fuel available.

I haven't done any research on boost referenced, bypass regulators.

A bypass regulator bleads off the extra pressure by dumping the extra fuel thru a return line, back to the tank. I have never seen a boost referenced bypass regulator. I am sure there is something available. I know Linc is running a regulator with goo results, you might scan his project and see if his will do the trick.

I recomended the pump because you might be able to have one less problematic area. Kind of follow the keep it simple approach. That and the fact that you are so close to nailing this thing down to a trouble free combo.

 

[kirkallen143]

I just got the OK, and yes it is from the wife too, to buy the bypass regulator. It is boost referenced and this will be, hopefully, a good starting place. I will try the pump next.
By the way, I gave Cater (whom is now Federal-Mogul) a call and they do not have any rebuild kits for their mech. fuel pumps.
Have a good one.

Kirk