Holley 94 problem ?????????????????

texas_rat_trap

Well-known member
I'm runnin 2 Holley 94's on my 223...I was told to run at no more than 2 psi of fuel pressure. I'm also runnin an electric fuel pump with an out put of 5.5 - 9 psi but have it going through a fuel pressure regulator then splits off to a Y fitting with a JEGS fuel pressure gauge which shows little to no psi when running engine. My question is when I try to start the engine it fires right up & runs for about 15 sec. then shuts off like it runs all the fuel out of the bowls then the fuel cannot keep up anymore. So I keep bumpin' up fuel pressure 2, 2-1/2, 3, 3-1/2, does same thing but when get to 4psi wants to run like a bat outa hell..... but then fuel starts pouring out the top of the carb. Also on primary carb at higher fuel pressure one of the venturis I think this is what its called the arm that sticks out centered in middle of bore, well this thing leaks also but is the only one that leaks out of 4, 2 per carb...what causes this arm to leak. Please anybody familiar with these Holley 94's :? [/b]
 
Don't know what kind of regulator you're running, but if it's one of those "purolator" style ones your best bet is to throw it in the trash. I've tried a couple of those on different cars/trucks and they were always crap. Once I switched to a Holley reg. all my fuel pressure problems seemed to go away. The Holley maybe doesn't fit the vintage look of your car, but you can always hide it somewhere. The other style (marketed under several different names, but always about $20-25 at Vatozone, etc) never seems to actually change the pressure no matter where you turn the dial. The little rubber diaphragm never appears to be very well "calibrated".


Also, are you running a return line from the regulator? Not all reg's allow you to do this, and it's not absolutely nescessary, but it will help the pump live a longer life, unless it has a bypass built in to it. Lots of variables out there, but you want to try to make sure that you end up with a system that doesn't fight itself. Have you tested the actual pressure coming from the pump itself, before the reg? Just to see how far down you're trying to choke back the pressure? 5.5 psi down to 2-2.5 isn't a big deal; 9 psi down to 2.5 may be more than the system can reliably handle, especially without a bypass/return line.

As far as not showing any pressure when running, that shouldn't make any diff. on an elec pump...it should be, more or less, constant when it's keyed on. It also shouldn't change much by engine revs, maybe a little due to slightly increased voltage, but overall not more than a lb. or so.

Lastly, I believe the English guys that are repoping the 94's have a new float needle design (that'll work on the original carbs also) that goes along way towards ending the notorious pressure problems the Strombergs are blessed with. Not 100% on that though, so you may want to look into it some more.
 
That's right get the low pressure Holley regulator and use a quality 1 to 5 pound gauge.

I tried one of the cheapie (cheapie quality not price necessarily) Mr. Gasket regulators at first on my Y-block's Holley/Ford 94. The thing would not hold a set pressure apparently, sometimes run a bit and die (out of gas), change the setting 1/2 pound, run a bit, leak/flood. Other times run OK for several days, then act up again. The Holley parts fixed all of that.

I am going to check into some sort of bypass. When I shut off the engine and sit awhile I see the gauge go up over two pounds and gas begins to leak out of the carb. The engine will not start as easily as it does cold (which is right now bingo) which leads me to believe it is flooding as well, of course.

The 94's do not like much pressure at all.

Roger
 
Sorry, I was thinking you were running Stromberg 97's for some reason. So the part about the English guys/float portion may not apply, but everything else should be the same.

And since you are running a Holley, you could try the Grose jets (I think they still make them) They can better handle a little extra pressure.
 
Check the float very carefully for cracks that let gas leak into them which destroys the boyancy. A crack on the bottom of the floaat will let a small amount of gas in but not let the float fill up. This reduces the pressure on the needle which lowers the pressure that the needle valve can shut off. Also, the newer composition floats can get gas logged, probably caused by the newer gas additives. Check these closely. Use only the newer type plastic tip needle valves. They seal better and tolerate dirt and rust better than the brass type. The arm of the float can develop a dimple where the needle valve touches it over time. This can cause a hangup problem that keeps the needle valve from closing against the seat.
 
Thanks Guys for all the info...Where's the best place to get the Holley pressure reg. & the new type Holley carb parts ex. platic tip needle valves. Yeah the regulator I got was a Cheap VatoZone regulator Spectra Brand and I new better to buy that piece of SH!T to but was the only place that was open at the time & now they won't return it.
 
Summit or Jeg's is prob the easiest place to find them. You might get lucky at Kragen (or Shucks and/or Checker, I think that's what they are called further east), they seem to have a decent selection of speed parts. Otherwise, do you have an old-fashioned speed shop near you? Not many left, but they are still out there.
 
Don't forget the 1-5psi gauge. (Low pressure regulator too)

Got mine through Summit. Even with shipping a better price than my local speed shop, merely 45 minutes away, which adds even more to their already high prices.
 
I bought the Holley low pressure regulator and it runs great now, except like you said when I shut the engine off the pressure jumps up about 1/2 to 1 psi and it leaks down into the carb / manifold a bit and is a little hard to start back up...but this is common from what i hear.
 
If you are able to run a return line from that regulator, as godheadcustoms suggested, I believe it will relieve your fuel "dribble" and hard starting when hot.

Lou Manglass
 
Back
Top