holley / weber 5200 electric choke mystery

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

Guest
Hmm. I just ordered a second H/W 5200 from Tom Langdon to replace my messed up first carburetor. I didn't want to spend a lot of money on a carb because I'm saving money for the new intake and head, and also to dig myself out of a disastrous rack and pinion installation gone horribly awry.

Anyway, the carb came with a water-heated choke assembly with electric assist. I would like to use an electric-only choke. I ordered one long ago from I-dont-remember-where. It's just a black, circular piece of plastic with coil spring inside of it.

The problem is that doesn't fit tightly to the carb.

If I'm doing this right, the black electric choke mechanism fits onto the carb (with the little pin sticking into the hole), and then it should be held in place by a metal ring with three screw holes. Even when tightened down, the choke mechanism can move freely. No good.

The other thing I don't understand is that on closer inspection there is another pin on the carb side that pivots along with a triangular piece of plastic on the outside of the carb. The water/electric choke seems to mate with both pins. The electric-only does not.

What am I missing here? A whole piece of something? Or is this one of those crazy works-on-a-real-weber-but-not-a-holley/weber situations?

I'm irritated.

-marcus
 
I don't think that the black circular peice of plastic means it is electric only. I think that is the choke, and all carbs have that.

I could be wrong, but it's a guess.
 
black piece is on heat chokes too...

by turning it it changes the richness of the fuel...if it turns freely, try turning the spring underneath the other way. It might be in backwards
 
by turning it it changes the richness of the fuel...

NO it changes how closed the choke butterfly is.

Both a quarter right for a total of half right. The choke pull-off is a bimetallic coil. Turning the knob either raises the tension or lowers the tension on the pull off spring. This affects how hot the spring has to be in order to (start to) pull off. Tighter spring means the engine has to get hotter before the butterfly starts to open and hotter still before it is open all the way. Looser means the opposite.

You can adjust the black knob so that the butterfly is only partially open when it is cold but that means that the spring remains at minimum tension and this will not change. You can also run it all the way back so that the butterfly never closes but this negates the choke all together regardless of spring tension. Conversely, you can tighten it so much the butterfly never opens. Both of these affect the fuel mix, but that is what the choke is all about anyway.

Turning the cap affects the RATE of pull-off.
 
S'okay. Takes four guys to run a relay. And y'all weren't wrong. Just not completely right. I have been in that position myself. Just use the 'search' function on FSF and type 'ludwig' for the evidence.
 
There is also a gasket that seals the black cab/coil to the carb choke assembly. Without the gasket there may not be enough thickness for the clamp to grip.

Good luck, Ric.
 
Okay. Where do I find such a gasket? I looked at the redline website and others who sell Weber parts, but none of them seem to want to deal with the "Holley / Weber" situation.
 
Also make sure the ring is on the right way, the little tangs need to face the black phenolic disk to grip.
 
Back
Top