Holley Weber 5200 install

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Hey guys, I'm in real need of some help with this new 2bbl install, im putting in the H/W 5200 that i bought from Stovebolt, i had the Stovebolt adapter but decided to go with the Clifford to make it simpler. Now that i have everything, i need some help setting it up. I have hard lines for the fuel and vac lines, so ill need to get a section of rubber hose to get the fuel line hooked up but i dont know how im going to hook up the vac line, where does it go on the carb or what do i need to do with it. also i got the hot water choke figured out by getting the Clifford adapter. but then my other problem would be the throttle, if anyone has pictures that show the set up besides the one ive already seen on this site please post them. Also tuning instructions would be great :).

~Chris
 
According to the instructions I got with my 5200.
"Hook you dizzy vac to the tube just above the idle mixture screws.
You need to cap the others"

As for the throttle, apparently there is no quick, easy, bolt-on solution to this. You need to custom make a braket/throttle assy. depending on your setup.
On my '61 I got lucky and the original linkage hooked right up with only minor adjusting.
The problem arose when I installed a C4 tranny and wanted to hook up the downshift.

I ended up switching to a cable pedal and making a custom throttle bracket for a Lokar cable to mount to, and making a downshift control off the pedal.

If you email me I can send you some pixs of the bracket I made and more info on it.

Glen
willidee@earthlink.net
 
You don't mention whether your distributor is the original '66 model. If so, it will not function as designed because the stock carb had a spark control valve the regulated the vacuum applied to the vac advance. You can hook the distributor to ported vac source or full vac source on the new carb, but the distributor is not going to operate as designed. May need to buy a later distributor for say a '68 that has both centrifugal and vac advance. The '66 only has vacuum advance, and after 37+ years, you are lucky if the diaphram is not stiff or leaking.

As far as the linkage, I made a braket and attached a 1 1/2 to 2" disc on it for a lever. I drilled several holes in the disc to mount the accelerator rod to one side and the carb to the other side. The disc and holes allowed me to drill another hole to get the angle correct, rather than fabricating another bracket each time if the first effor did not work.
 
Doug, yes my dizzy is the original '66 model, everything about my engine is stock and matching except for my new pertronix setup. If i need to change to a '68 dizzy, how much would that cost, what do i have to do to change it? I really dont know much on that end and was trying to work around it.

~Chris
 
You might get away with just checking the stock '66 distributor and make sure that it is in fact providing enough advance at idle and when the throttle is openned up. I had my 2 bbl carb hooked up to the stock distributor for a year or so, before I found this site. I had been unable to get the car timed per factory specs and tuned it by ear. Turns out I was dialing in a bunch of initial advance to compensate for a weak vacuum diaphram on my distributor. I am not exactly sure how the spark control valve on the stock carb regulates the vac signal to the stock distributor, but seeing as how the stock distributor only had vacuum advance, I did not see how you could get enough advance under wide open throttle using an aftermarket carb. Under wide open throttle, engine vacuum drops when you punch the gas, and the ignition timing would also be reduced resulting in slower acceleration. Some of this reduced timing is required to prevent the car from pinging. The centrifugal advance component of the timing will help "bridge the gap" better when vacuum is reduced and timing is reduced under wide open throttle condition. As the car speeds up, the engine vacuum increases the vacuum advance, and the centrifugal advance also increases the timing resulting in more power. The parts store did not list any replacement vacuum cans for the 6 cyl cars so I replaced the stock distributor with a later model that has both centrifugal and vacuum advance. The distributor cost about $35 from Autozone, and then a new Pertronix Unit was about $80 or so after shipping. The 66 and the 68 distributors take a different Pertronix unit. An alternative would be a Duraspark II distributor and module. I think the prices for a rebuilt Duraspark and ignition module would be cheaper. You can find further distributor info by using the search feature.
 
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