Honduras 2v to 200 CID
- Thread starter roghax85
- Start date
awesome!! guess you've been around for a while, march 2011...
and your english is is clear.
the 2bbl mod is the best, ususally what I have seen is people will build up the side walls to make a perfect round'd hole... but not everyone has the same idea...
I like that you were able to really open that hole, if looking at the first hole and adaptor I notice it's much larger than the next adapter, it kinda makes it look like (maybe it's the pictures not doing justice) smaller than the original 1bbl hole.
the odd patten the first adapter makes you want to have as much of that open to the top adapter, the bigger hole the better.
It looks really good for a small log!!!
good luck let us know how it works, but from these pics looks like it will work fine.
for vacuum leaks I recommend some liquid gasket maker, like ultra copper (RTV) silicon, it holds up against heat really well.
and your english is is clear.
the 2bbl mod is the best, ususally what I have seen is people will build up the side walls to make a perfect round'd hole... but not everyone has the same idea...
I like that you were able to really open that hole, if looking at the first hole and adaptor I notice it's much larger than the next adapter, it kinda makes it look like (maybe it's the pictures not doing justice) smaller than the original 1bbl hole.
the odd patten the first adapter makes you want to have as much of that open to the top adapter, the bigger hole the better.
It looks really good for a small log!!!
good luck let us know how it works, but from these pics looks like it will work fine. for vacuum leaks I recommend some liquid gasket maker, like ultra copper (RTV) silicon, it holds up against heat really well.
roghax85
Well-known member
Thank you.
do you know where is a guide to the machine operator maybe? a video or maybe pictures?
I like to know if the job is better is I ask to the machine make the hole how this picture:
http://classicinlines.com/images/Tech_i ... iller1.JPG
Thanks
do you know where is a guide to the machine operator maybe? a video or maybe pictures?
I like to know if the job is better is I ask to the machine make the hole how this picture:
http://classicinlines.com/images/Tech_i ... iller1.JPG
Thanks
parkwood60
Well-known member
xctasy":1f4mb5b6 said:
What did you use for filler? I am going to be doing this on the Billy Beer Futura in the near future.
roghax85
Well-known member
xctasy":sn880wes said:
Hello friend:
I have some questions:
to can filler this areas, I need to disassembly the cylinder head, the valves... all this?
what material can use to make the filler? this can be make by a welder AC?
if I disassembly al valves, what need to can assamble all againg?
thanks and sorry my english man.
Your English is fine.
It needs to be braised with an oxy acetylene and a bronze welding rod. Doesn't need to be really strong. Die grind back with an air tool and its best to disassemble the head. If you use a really power full 1200 watt vacum cleaner, you might be able to avoid a disassembly, but I wouldn't personally risk it
http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0905c ... ewall.html
http://www.twi.co.uk/services/technical ... cast-iron/
It needs to be braised with an oxy acetylene and a bronze welding rod. Doesn't need to be really strong. Die grind back with an air tool and its best to disassemble the head. If you use a really power full 1200 watt vacum cleaner, you might be able to avoid a disassembly, but I wouldn't personally risk it
http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0905c ... ewall.html
http://www.twi.co.uk/services/technical ... cast-iron/
parkwood60":lmu3xfn8 said:xctasy":lmu3xfn8 said:
What did you use for filler? I am going to be doing this on the Billy Beer Futura in the near future.
Another option if you don't want to dissassemble your head is to use the proprietry Devcon filler, sold as JB Weld or under liecense by other suppliers. It is very important to support the internals with iron tie wire used for rebar (reobar, reinforcement bar for cement uses this kind of low carbon iron tie wire) so that it maintains its ability to seal the intake manifold at all times...you don't want fuel air mix or vac leaks at any time, ever.
I use it for my prototype cylinder head adaptors, and its very effective.
roghax85
Well-known member
Hey man, thanks so much for your help.
let me tell you:
I was dissaemble the head cylinder, valvetrain complete to check the valves etc..
and I need to change the valve seal, valve and valve guide. so I think is better the opportunity to let all working fine.
now, I have news question jajaja, sorry
I have the valve guide V5009 and the valve seal 5/16.
I am try to buy this week (maybe tomorrow) the valves, but I think I need this: V1717 (intake-1.649) and the V1983 (exhaust-1.380)
like this product: http://classicinlines.com/proddetail.as ... IV-200-RSE
but I like to know if I can use this to a better performace:
http://classicinlines.com/proddetail.as ... IV-200-RSL
Stem: 5/16"
Intake: 1.750"
Exhaust: 1.380"
I can use always the same guide V5009 and valve seal too? , ot I need machine to can use this later valves?
I no can machine too much my head cylinders.
Thanks
let me tell you:
I was dissaemble the head cylinder, valvetrain complete to check the valves etc..
and I need to change the valve seal, valve and valve guide. so I think is better the opportunity to let all working fine.
now, I have news question jajaja, sorry
I have the valve guide V5009 and the valve seal 5/16.
I am try to buy this week (maybe tomorrow) the valves, but I think I need this: V1717 (intake-1.649) and the V1983 (exhaust-1.380)
like this product: http://classicinlines.com/proddetail.as ... IV-200-RSE
but I like to know if I can use this to a better performace:
http://classicinlines.com/proddetail.as ... IV-200-RSL
Stem: 5/16"
Intake: 1.750"
Exhaust: 1.380"
I can use always the same guide V5009 and valve seal too? , ot I need machine to can use this later valves?
I no can machine too much my head cylinders.
Thanks
Unlike my Australian heads, American heads always ran the same valve guide sizes. The US head has ability to fit any valve if you machine the chamber to suit.
The best performance comes from the right size of valve to suit the compression, carb and size of the log head internals. Intake port diameter is only about 1.25" or so, very small. Work others have done gasflowing these heads has shown that 1.675" is all you need to get good flow rates, mainly because the short turn radius and pocket area is so badly shaped on the early heads. So going 1.75" won't give you any extra flow on a 1.649" on that cylinder head. But if your having trouble getting a smaller than 52 cc chamber, fitting a bigger intake will help you with your compression ratio if you don't relieve the area beside the valve. Your cfm won't go up, may even drop with a 1.75" valve, but compression ratio is far more important than peak flow rate if your not porting the cylinder head. Its hard to get more than 120 cfm of intake flow, but really easy to get a permanant 6% performance boost from a 15% compression ratio hike if your ignition is reworked to suit the new carb and mods you plan.
To get a better than 6% peak air flow flow improvment in the head (6 cfm up from the almost 100 cfm they flow stock), you have to look at well executed stratergies (pocket blending, relief of the long turn radius, and use a back cut, rimlow and/or swirl polished valves) to estabilish good air flow, then do some chamber work. The improvement in low lift flow rates with a bigger 1.75" valve will give you more torque, and its ability to raise compression will give you 6% more torque everywhere. Although peak power may suffer with a bigger valve, that's not a reason not to use it, as an engine only sees full lift half as many times as it sees lower lifts.
The best performance comes from the right size of valve to suit the compression, carb and size of the log head internals. Intake port diameter is only about 1.25" or so, very small. Work others have done gasflowing these heads has shown that 1.675" is all you need to get good flow rates, mainly because the short turn radius and pocket area is so badly shaped on the early heads. So going 1.75" won't give you any extra flow on a 1.649" on that cylinder head. But if your having trouble getting a smaller than 52 cc chamber, fitting a bigger intake will help you with your compression ratio if you don't relieve the area beside the valve. Your cfm won't go up, may even drop with a 1.75" valve, but compression ratio is far more important than peak flow rate if your not porting the cylinder head. Its hard to get more than 120 cfm of intake flow, but really easy to get a permanant 6% performance boost from a 15% compression ratio hike if your ignition is reworked to suit the new carb and mods you plan.
To get a better than 6% peak air flow flow improvment in the head (6 cfm up from the almost 100 cfm they flow stock), you have to look at well executed stratergies (pocket blending, relief of the long turn radius, and use a back cut, rimlow and/or swirl polished valves) to estabilish good air flow, then do some chamber work. The improvement in low lift flow rates with a bigger 1.75" valve will give you more torque, and its ability to raise compression will give you 6% more torque everywhere. Although peak power may suffer with a bigger valve, that's not a reason not to use it, as an engine only sees full lift half as many times as it sees lower lifts.
roghax85":2l7bsqxo said:
I've been doing similar mods myself but with a 1963 Australian XL Falcon 170 cubic inch head, which came on a 1968 XT Falcon wreck I got from a friend in 2002.
I'm bolting three 2-bbl Weber 32/36 carbs on it, but opening up three very big 1.83" diameter holes.
roghax85
Well-known member
xctasy":26kbhhza said:roghax85":26kbhhza said:
I've been doing similar mods myself but with a 1963 Australian XL Falcon 170 cubic inch head, which came on a 1968 XT Falcon wreck I got from a friend in 2002.
I'm bolting three 2-bbl Weber 32/36 carbs on it, but opening up three very big 1.83" diameter holes.
Nice, do you have more pictures or videos?
I am so exicted to can make start my engine.
Thanks
This is a work in progress for my NC6VHO adaptor. A few mistakes, this was for setting up a 1946 Holley 1-BBL on to a 1908 Holley intake 63 Falcon head.
It is an example of a baseline 1-bbl trial version with no modified internals. This is before the new 3.5 degree alloy top is drilled for three holes using a dyna bolted 50 mm bridge maintenance diamond tipped drill bit, and grouted up with FosRock and Devcon, then gasflowed. Lots of fun to do, I use a bridge maintenance contractor to do it. That way I can convert from three Webers back to the 1-bbl to compare performance, air fuel and emissions.
Because of the space opened up by the short E1 October 1980 on wards high mount starter, I'm working on a six O2 sensor exhast based on this version of the Argentine header. According to others like TheFrenchtown Flyer (Greg K), the 1-bbl and 2-bbl version,( including the TBI modifications) have a poor roosters tail, and it's not unheard for the air fuel ratios to swing about a full A/F ratio point from cylinders 2 & 3 and 1 & 6. So good manifold porting is really important to even A/F mix and even flow efficency to each exhast.As they say, its not what you eat that makes you thin or fat, its what comes out...
It is an example of a baseline 1-bbl trial version with no modified internals. This is before the new 3.5 degree alloy top is drilled for three holes using a dyna bolted 50 mm bridge maintenance diamond tipped drill bit, and grouted up with FosRock and Devcon, then gasflowed. Lots of fun to do, I use a bridge maintenance contractor to do it. That way I can convert from three Webers back to the 1-bbl to compare performance, air fuel and emissions.
Because of the space opened up by the short E1 October 1980 on wards high mount starter, I'm working on a six O2 sensor exhast based on this version of the Argentine header. According to others like TheFrenchtown Flyer (Greg K), the 1-bbl and 2-bbl version,( including the TBI modifications) have a poor roosters tail, and it's not unheard for the air fuel ratios to swing about a full A/F ratio point from cylinders 2 & 3 and 1 & 6. So good manifold porting is really important to even A/F mix and even flow efficency to each exhast.As they say, its not what you eat that makes you thin or fat, its what comes out...
roghax85
Well-known member
xctasy":1prp03nu said:This is a work in progress for my NC6VHO adaptor. A few mistakes, this was for setting up a 1946 Holley 1-BBL on to a 1908 Holley intake 63 Falcon head.
It is an example of a baseline 1-bbl trial version with no modified internals. This is before the new 3.5 degree alloy top is drilled for three holes using a dyna bolted 50 mm bridge maintenance diamond tipped drill bit, and grouted up with FosRock and Devcon, then gasflowed. Lots of fun to do, I use a bridge maintenance contractor to do it. That way I can convert from three Webers back to the 1-bbl to compare performance, air fuel and emissions.
Because of the space opened up by the short E1 October 1980 on wards high mount starter, I'm working on a six O2 sensor exhast based on this version of the Argentine header. According to others like TheFrenchtown Flyer (Greg K), the 1-bbl and 2-bbl version,( including the TBI modifications) have a poor roosters tail, and it's not unheard for the air fuel ratios to swing about a full A/F ratio point from cylinders 2 & 3 and 1 & 6. So good manifold porting is really important to even A/F mix and even flow efficency to each exhast.As they say, its not what you eat that makes you thin or fat, its what comes out...
Thanks man,
I am to try to make a just litle fun my car
I will try to resume my idea:
Engine ford 6L 200 stock to install it:
-Carbuetor Dual-Jet, exacly it: http://www.carburetorfactory.com/images/ill3-01.jpg] modified the intake of the stock head cylinder to put the 2bbl carburator.
-New guide and valve, stem seals: http://classicinlines.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SIV-200-RSL
-I will try to polish the head cylinder (exhaust and the space valves)
-This kit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-SK65-236-4/ Duration at 050 inch Lift: 212 int./212 exh.
Advertised Duration: 260 int./260 exh. Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.440 int./0.440 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees) 110
-T5 transmission: http://image.mustang50magazine.com/f/8993603/m5lp_0609_07_z+rebuilt_t5_transmission+.jpg Ford Mustang 2005 V6 4.0 1st 3.35:1, 2nd 1.99:1, 3rd 1.33:1, 4th 1.00:1, 5th 0.68:1
-Rear end gear 3.20:1 7.5" non-posi
-Duraspark II whit 8.00mm spark wire and Coil 60k Voltios
-stock rockers non-adjustable 1.5
This is the car: http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm288/roghax85/Rogha Life-x/IMG00168-20110419-1337.jpg
What you think about my plan? I
Perfect. Especially the trans choice. Actually, I found out the significance of the Cologne engined US made trucks, SUV and specialty Fords back in 2000 when working on my turbo charged British 2.3 V6 Cortina Ghia....US market Cologne starters, bellhousings and flexplates were the similar. Its just ever so much slightly smaller than the 302 Mustang II small bell C4 bells, yet will fit a 302/5.0 with the right adaptor, meaning the bullet proof 5R55W's or MazDog M5R1's from junker Explorers are the most compact 5 speed gearbox swap around. When I saw RickWrenches mate use one behind his 5.0 liter V8 engined GTV Alfa Romeo, I instantly knew that a brilliant age of SUV trans swaps was happening!
Props to Rick and his Brazillian mate Luiz who came up with this which you'll find on Rick Wrenches website. See http://www.rickwrench.com
and especially http://www.rickwrench.com/index79.htm
I make an adaptor to fit the Cologne V6 transmission to the US and Australian I6. It allows the use of the stock M5/T5/C5/Bordeux C3/A4LD/5R55 flexplate used from 1973 to 2011 on Capris, Bronco II's Rangers/Explorers/S197 Stangs. The Fox bodies with V code transmissions used a similar 138 tooth flexplate as those Cologne engined US made trucks, SUV and specialty Fords, opening up the fitting of proper modern gearboxes behind our old I-6's.
Props to Rick and his Brazillian mate Luiz who came up with this which you'll find on Rick Wrenches website. See http://www.rickwrench.com
and especially http://www.rickwrench.com/index79.htm
I make an adaptor to fit the Cologne V6 transmission to the US and Australian I6. It allows the use of the stock M5/T5/C5/Bordeux C3/A4LD/5R55 flexplate used from 1973 to 2011 on Capris, Bronco II's Rangers/Explorers/S197 Stangs. The Fox bodies with V code transmissions used a similar 138 tooth flexplate as those Cologne engined US made trucks, SUV and specialty Fords, opening up the fitting of proper modern gearboxes behind our old I-6's.
roghax85
Well-known member
Thanks
what your think about the cam:
I am try to buy it maybe today ot tomorrow:
I have 2 options or 3.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-65-236-4/ or it: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-280938-10/
Let me know what you think.
what your think about the cam:
I am try to buy it maybe today ot tomorrow:
I have 2 options or 3.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-65-236-4/ or it: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-280938-10/
Let me know what you think.
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