How to convert from an automatic choke to an electric choke?

eds1965coupe

Active member
I would like to convert my Autolite 1100 automatic choke to an electric choke. Is there a part number or source for the conversion kit? Can it be done from parts found at the salvage yard?

Thanks so much,

Ed
 
I was thinking about doing that to mine before I realized I just needed to replace my exhaust manifold and solve all my problems at one time. I was fairly certain that a later 70's electric choke coil would work fine. I think I was looking at one off a fairmont with the 200 in it. They are like $50, and that was more than I wanted to spend just to see. What you really need to look at is the diameter of that black cap where the coil is. There are only 2 or 3 sizes of those even across all the brands. Other thing you need to look at is the voltage. As far as I know Ford was the only one that used a special terminal on the alternator to power the choke which ended up around 7 volts. Everyone else used 12 volts. GM did it through an oil pressure switch so you would only heat the choke when the engine was running. Fords only heated when the alternator was turning. For some reason I am thinking that Chrysler stuck with air or liquid heated systems till at least the 80's. If you are going searching junkyards I would first be looking at Fords and maybe Jeeps?. The GM ones were a larger diameter and I think the aftermarket Holley stuff is also the larger diameter.

Why you looking to do this? The air heated stuff is really cheap and seems to work fine. If your manifold is shot (which will soon cause other issues if it has not already) or you are running headers there is a cheap kit you can get from most stores that has a little box you strap to the pipe to get the heated air. The coils are cheap. The tubing is cheap. I screwed around with manual cables and other ideas before I just gave up and got a new exhaust manifold. With the new manifold and about $20 in other parts I was back in business. I figured I would be messing with it again and looking at the electric again but that was almost 3 years ago now and all has been good.
 
eds1965coupe":ndd31z83 said:
convert my Autolite 1100 automatic choke to an electric choke

I converted both my 170 carbs to electric chokes. My sons 73 maverick 302 2V had one that fit right on my 1V. Just had to wire the alternator stator to the choke and make sure a ground was provided.
 
69.5 Mav,
Uhoh, I heard no ground needed...the thermo. coil is it's own ground cuz it's 2 (ie bimetal coil) metals, touches the metal carb body on the stabilized end. My prob is finding the stator...??
cf
 
Thank, Ric I'll ck in the pm - gotta go out n plow ($) w/the BronKwhore.
 
I actually wanna pull the electric choke off my of my Holley 4V carb. Problem I have is when I drive on cold days, especially on the highway, the electric choke won't stay warm enough to keep the carb from rechoking (is that a word?). I'm going to stick a manual choke on there eventually.
 
CobraSix":tdi4tmju said:
I actually wanna pull the electric choke off my of my Holley 4V carb. Problem I have is when I drive on cold days, especially on the highway, the electric choke won't stay warm enough to keep the carb from rechoking (is that a word?). I'm going to stick a manual choke on there eventually.

I am not a fan of electric chokes, but if you notice last American cars with them would tend to run heater hose up alongside the choke spring assembly with a little clip bracket. Not a water choke per se, but when coolant gets hot it further adds heat to the choke spring and helps keep it open.

I still say the best choke is water only choke. However if engine and carb was designed with the hot air choke in mind, I find them very reliable. You can use the little clamp on box to supply heat, but you need carb with tiny vacuum passage to draw that heat into choke. Make sure that passage is open or choke wont work. Possibly you could add vacuum hose with a restriction in it to limit vacuum and work things out that way?? Never seen anybody do this, but should be doable if you are determined. I have seen some old hot air chokes that actually have the threaded fitting for heat to enter right in the removable part of the choke assembly that also holds the spring. No idea anymore what year or model car/carb that it was done like that.
 
I love my electric choke, as far as driveability in winter goes adding an electric choke to the YF was the best thing I could have done to my Falcon. Pump the gas twice, hit the key the engine starts right up. Idle for about 30 seconds and its ready to go.

The electric chokes are mostly the same size on the Autolite and Carter carbs, I think the later '70's Holley 1946's used a smaller size.
 
Eric,
I have Carter YF 8247 S. Is your's wired to the stator? Where R wires routed around the engine bay?
Thanx
How high is the carb log to final flange before the air cleaner? (Trying to get a total carb/mounting plate distance. I'll put the air cleaner down beside).
 
I think thats the same Carter I have. I built it from a box of parts I found so it probably has parts from several different carbs.

As far as wiring it to the stator, I used a "painless-style" wiring harness kit that had a wire labeled "electric choke" so I just connected it to that. I'm not quite sure where that wire is connected, it may connect to the stator wire somewhere in the fuse box. I need to check that out and make sure its not putting out too much juice on the choke coil. But it shouldn't be too hard to wire the choke up to the stator.

As far as how tall the carb is, it is probably a bit taller than the Autolite and Holley 1V's. I'm using a 14" air cleaner with a drop-base I got from the parts store and it just barely clears the hood. I would imagine that the Mavericks and other cars that got the YF probably had a drop-base air cleaner from the factory. :thumbup:
 
how tall the carb is
Thanx 4 the reply. I just ment from the log to the bottom of the air cleaner. I got one that hits the hood w/o the air cleaner even on - it goes beside the engine (Bronco).
 
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