I did it again....

[Anonymous]

Well, I rebuilt my carburetor over the weekend and had a bit of sunshine yesterday afternoon so I thought I'd reinstall it and give the engine a go. So far so good. I was able to adjust the fixture screw, which had no effect before, and the engine ran even smoother. No surging. But...I still had a knocking sound coming from the #5 or #6 cylinder. Lifter. Or at least this was my first thought. Then I thought, maybe I have too much initial advance. So...I cranked over the engine until I was on the compression stroke for the #1 cylinder (had help this time - finger check). The balance was off with the timing marks on the block so I spun the fan until it lined up with 10 degress. Next, I removed the distributor cap and made sure the rotor was lined up with the number one spark plug - it wasn't even close. Maybe 20 degress off. At this point I thought I could be a tooth off on the distributor so I removed it - this is where it all goes down hill.

After rotating the distributor a bit, it slipped back down into the block with no problems. I tighten down the adjusting bolt at the base of the distributor a bit and try cranking over the engine - notice I said try. Nothing. I'm not lighting any fuel.

I'm not far off because at one point the engine started up and ran for about 2 seconds but I couldn't rotate the distributor anymore - it was hitting the block.

So I called it quits for the evening. If it doesn't rain today, I'm going to try again after work.

Man, I wish I had an expert close by who could tune the engine for me.


-Chris

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HAY CHRIS
Might be best to start from step one.
Make sure #1 is at the TOP of the compression stroke, (that might where you went wrong the first time). use a small screw driver and hand rotate the motor and watch the screw driver when it stops going up (make sure its not binding in the cyl.) you should be at TDC. Also when hand turning be sure to turn it in the right direction. Going the wrong way you well have a problem with timming chain slop throing the marks off. The motor doesn't care where the vacuum port on the dizzy is pointing just make sure that the rotor lines up with the #1 wire, and you have pleanty of room to move the dizzy in eather direction to set the timming. I myself would set it a "O" then set it with a light to the corect timming.
hope this helps
Tim

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks man for the advance.

Going the wrong way you well have a problem with timming chain slop throing the marks off.

After noticing the slope last night, I quit. By then I realized I had been rotating the engine to line up the timing marks the wrong way. I kept thinking that this was too easy.

I just think I was too frustrated to do anymore.

I'll try again tonight - know what you have pointed out should help out greatly.

One more thing. Is there any difference in a 76 & 77 distributor? Other than different sized caps and rotors. Just curious.


-Chris

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HI CHRIS
I don't think there is any differance in the dizzy's. But I don't know forsure.. I think the bottom end is the same as long as it like a dizzy for another 200 or what ever your motor is.. It might have a bigger cap to stop some cross fire in the cap with the electornics and higher voltage. Just guessing here..
tim

 

[pedal2themetal45]

HI CHRIS
Also the timming mark well come around twice one well be 180 deg off (for the exghust stroke) Just in case you didn't know..
Tim

 

[Anonymous]

the dizzy is perdy much the same