I hate to even ask...

flash_point01

Well-known member
I'm sorry. There now that is said i'll ask another pink wire question. I have at length studied previous posts concerning the pink wire. I understand what it does, why its there, why i need to remove it for my DSII and where its at and goes. What I would like to know is the best way to bypass it. If i cut it near the start and end of its run and simply put another wire in tis place will the the inch left over still cause a voltage drop? Or do I need to completely bypass it all together and run a new set of lines for the direct current to the coil and to the solenoid? Please spare me :cry:
PS I have a 78 distributor and am using the Dyna Moudule set up.
 
Simple questions first...

I assume you mean the ballast resistor wire in the car?

First, be sure that it is even dropping the voltage. I found on my car that the wire had been replaced at some point and I was getting 12V at the coil instead of the normal 6V. So check that first before you start doing anything.

To answer the question...yes, there will be a voltage drop if you leave an inch on there. Real question is...Does it really matter? You'll likely only lose about .1V with 1 inch left on (if that much).
 
On my 64 Falcon, there is a plug coming off of a wire attached to the start switch. That plug is attached to the pink resistor wire which goes through the firewall and on to the coil. If you study the wiring diagram, you will see it shown as such. Pull your dash out to view the wiring and you should see the plug. Leave the wire attached to the start switch, unplug the resistor wire, then run another wire from the plug to your coil.
 
Gawd, kukm66, you're, like, sooo smart. That was exactly what I was going to say.

I tapped a 12V lead from the red/green wire out the back of the starter BEFORE it got to the pink wire. Then I taped the end of the pink wire. That way there was no open lead downstream somewhere to flop around and ground out the system.

Personally, I like to tape off and tuck aside the excess or bypassed wires instead of cutting them off. This after 25 years in construction. You never know when another raceway or a spare lead somewhere may come in handy. And maybe only for the next guy. But hey.

Kukm means to pull the gauge pod out. It is relatively easy. Reaching behind the dash, unscrew the speedo cable. Then unscrew the four screws holding it into the frame. Then lay the pod down on the steering column (covered with a towel to prevent scratching, if this is an issue) with the wires still connected. Then with a flashlight (and mirror if you are so inclined), study the back of the ignition switch. It is not difficult; just cramped in there.

I reinstall the speedo finger tight since it seems that I keep having to get in there for one reason or another.
 
Thank you guys. I had check the voltage with the resistor in, i was down to 5.8 volts with a load. After much study of the wiring diagram, and alot of cursing, I decided to leave as much stock wire in place. I pulled my 12 volts by splicing of another "Run" wire. I ran directly to the red and green that the pink wire fed. I replaced the red and green that used to run to the coil with a new 12 wire. I then spliced the brown solenoid wire into the the new wire running to the coil. Took her for a test run and she ran great. Although there was a certain amount of rattle in the new dizzy, not sure if its bad, thats another post. Some thing like this.
WireDiagram.jpg

Any problems you guys see?
 
I'd strongly recommend removing / unhooking that "12V from solenoid for cranking" wire. You don't need it anymore, and if your starter solenoid ever starts acting up it can try to backfeed WAY too much current back through the ignition switch / wires. It's not that much fun replacing 2 feet of scorched wire under the dash, trust me.
 
Good thing Jamyers looked at it too. I thought [like suspected] there were too many wires, but he said why.
 
Thanks. I simply removed the brown wire from the solenoid and covered it to prevent any grounding. Next time I pull the dash I will reroute the new wire, yellowish colored in the diagram, straight into the red coil wire and abandon the brown one in place.
 
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