I raced my 200 in the 1/4 mi.!!!!!! i think i need a V-8!!!!

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To run killer E.T.s with a six you have to 60' the hell out of it. You don't have the cubes for it on the big end. I'm not real up to date on 200 ci performance. To push a full bodied car down the track it has to hook hard. Drag radials and a stout gear letting out the clutch at 3500 rpm. Drive it like you stole it :shock:

Steven

www.mighty6.com
 
As soon as you drop into the demon diff teritory, you've gotta make it rev.

Mighty 6 is on to it. He likes nothing less than 5.1 liters of Chevy grunt churning through the traffic rails! :wink:

To run a 3500 rpm stall, and 3.5 or 4.11:1 gears, you'll lose some streetablity but gain a huge amount of start line urge. The C4 is a pearler of a cog-box, cheap and easy to rework. It's all there! But as you get more radical, a 3-speed looses the ablity to cruise. This is because the converter won't hook up untill 80 mph with 3500 rpm stall and 3.2:1 gears, or the car will be screaming at 3400 rpm @ 60 mph with 4.11's isn't my idea of a good time. Get the compromise wrong with a little 200 engine, two gears down on what it needs, and still wanting to kick a v8's butt, is a sour experience.

As for carbs, use anything that can produce power. I think a set of triple IDA or IDF 2-bbl 44 mm Webers with 32 mm chokes, your 272 degree cam, and I gaurantee 250 hp at 6000 rpm with 13.3 second quarters at 6700 rpm in second with the stock 3.2:1 gears. A 2500 rpm stall will load the trans, and the fact that two gears are being used in stead of three if you ran a set of , say, 4.7:1 gears means you'll still be able to cruise at 60 mph with the convertor not slipping to much.

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The IDA/F carbs are super expensive, but as long as the fuel system runs pump gas and proper fuel filtration, they are the ultimate in per formance. Even little 1400 cc Minis with a single IDA 48 2-bbl carb and 285 degree cam can trigger the 140 hp mark with just basic work to the heads and exhast. In a 1700 pound Mini, there were sub 14 second quarters on offer.

Your base is sound, the trans and gears are fine, the car is light, and autos are better at drags. The detractors to IDA's and IDF's are the needle and sets, jets and general hassle of tunning them. Read the books on Weber Cards by SA bookes. It covers all aspects of tunning.
The log head is a pain, but with three 2-bbls pulse tunning a finely atomised fuel air mix throughout all the rev range, you'd love it.

Why do you think 289 GT40's ran quad ID Webers? 390 hp from a little 4.7 liter engine, that's why!
 
I saw that you have tons of head work done but is it still the Integral head or is it an Aussie 2v or an Argie. I've said it a million times horsepower is made and lost in the head. You need to swap to a head that can flow and go with at least a 350cfm 2bbl. That will get the power up.

There is still a ton of other considerations tires, tire pressure, traction bars, gears, stall converters. There are enough posts above me talking about all that stuff no point in me doing the same.

Keep in mind that there are v-8's with minor mods (Headers and such) that struggle to bust 16's at least I know a few so I dont' think your to bad off.
 
CobraSix":3iahtk7g said:
just a question...what are rhoades lifters?

Slade

Rhoades Lifters are a high bleed rate hydraulic valve that bleed off alot of the hydraulic pressure at low rpm so they dont achieve full pumpup and therefore they dont lift the valve as high. Im not sure how lowering the lift helps a long duration rough idling cam but thats the idea.

As rpms increase the Rhoades pump up to full pressure and after about 2500-3000rpm act like a regular anti-pumpup hydraulic lifter.

The main problem I see with Rhoades on a SB I6 is that to get them to work properly you need a high rpm cam and the Rhoades compensate to try and restore some low end. With our I6's our big advantage is our low end torque. The Rhoades are a compromise and a sort of bandaid fix. As the old saying goes "If its too good to be true it probably is"
 
I would have to agree with ANLUSHAC11. Everythinhg you are trying to gain with the cam is being killed off with the roads lifters. You'r peak power is where the lifters are starting to pump up :cry: Put a set of stock liters in first. Inline motors have enough low end grunt that Rhoads Lifters may hurt the performance more than help. It may not be that you'r motor is that down on power the first 60' feet is eveything to a six. All the old timers will tell you the same thing. My truck has proven it pass after pass. It's to heavy and areo chalanged to run the low ET and big MPH in the 1/4.

Steven
If it's inline powerd I'll race it :D :D

www.mighty6.com
 
In my opinion your never going to make alot of low end torque with 200 cu.in. and a short stroke. If you want to make power you need RPMs and there are two limiting factors, the head and the rod ratio.
Frank
 
We,ve pretty well beaten the rod ratio argument to death here in the past. On a street engine, the differences between a 1.50 ratio and a 1.75 ratio mean very, very little. Better breathing is always a good thing, he's done the head and the Carter YF is a big improvement over stock. He probably needs still more carb to get the most out of it. The real issue is the Rhoades lifters. With a fairly mild cam like that they have got to be killing his mid-range. He looks to be about 1/2 second slow for a 78 MPH trap speed, that's probably due to the lifters.
 
ALRIGHT!!!!!!!!ALRIGHT!!!!!!!!! you've convinced me......all of you..........the Rhoads Lifters are gonna come out and i'll put in regular lifters and then i'd like to do something with the carburation. one question though...I didn't rebuild it but i know some about the engine...tell me how do i put in the new lifters? anybody? after the head is off.....is that the way i go about putting the new ones in? and then after that, do i need to run a "break-in" period or can i just start driving it as is?

THANKS EVERYBODY AND I MEAN EVERYBODY FOR ALL YOUR INPUT...i will stick with my inline baby, since i know it can go as fast as i want it to go!

:D :D :D :D
 
there is a guy on my maverick forum that had a 71 or a 72 maverick sprint with a 200 and a set of headers and he was running in the 15s 8)
 
In the 1972 edition of Peterson's "Complete Book of Fords" there is an artical about I think Ak Miller doing that. I think it got into the 16's. It was done to a '70 Maverick with 3 spd stick and the small differential. Think it was a 200. I found a few copies over the years of this mag in swap meets. Mine is packed away in the attic. Couldn't find it now if I had to, but I think the story originally was in Car Craft in '70 or '71 .
 
I have done alot of the same things to a 200 that is going into my '63 Ranchero soon. No Rhodes lifters. I got the Isky cam & lifters. Header, lots of head work .030 over bore and tied to a T-5. Hope to get it installed next month. I also plan on the same stuff for my '71 Maverick Grabber with a 250. I really don't want a V8. I did this same stuff to a 170 in my '60 Falcon when I was in high school. I could keep up with V8's till about 60 mph as long as I didn't blow the diff up. This happend 4 times. I just welded up the spider gears and no mo rear end troubles, but it was fun in the rain!
 
Supposedly you can get the lifters out using a magnet, but I've yet to find someone that has been able to do that. The best way is to push them out from below (with the oil pan removed). Also I would definately use some type of break-in lube and break it in just like you would a new cam.

Alex
 
Alex,
I have found if you don't have a buch of miles on the lifters you can use a magnet :wink: My son Jason 200 had to pull two lifters after about 2,000 miles on his rebuild because of Bad lifters (ISKY :x ) and we used a magnet, it was one of those shirt pocket telescoping ones! Worked great!
 
82F100":cy0oc4f7 said:
This might make you feel alittle bit better,try finding a sight that will give you a altitude corrected E T & mph.I think Bowlings might have one on their site.I don't know what the natural altitude is there or what the weather inhanced altitude was.For instance with decent night air for us here in Az my 01' ford Expedition ran a 17.12 at the track I work at.This past weekend at Las Vegas it ran a best of 17.89 with the altimeter hitting 6,400-5,500 above sea level at a natural altitude of around 3,500 IIRC.Check on it and see what comes up, but ya get a 2bbl on that thing and good luck!
here are the factors
http://www.smokemup.com/auto_math/nhra_ ... actors.php
 
i have another question for you car buffs(more so than i am!).

i got to lookin' at an old 200 in the garage and is it possible for the lifters to come out from up through the head?, or does the head actually have to come off? the way i have seen most motors is you pull the valve cover off, pull the rocker arm assy' off, pull the pushrods out then take a telescoping magnet down and pull the lifters out. is that the same way we do it on our 200's?
PLEASE TELL ME THE EASIEST WAY!!!!!!!
another thing--if the head has to come off, isn't there water running through the block and head together??won't there be a coolant mess then??
please help me!!!!!!!
are the lifters easy to come out or are they a pretty tight fit???
thanks again all of you!!!
and i really, REALLY mean it!!! :? :?
 
if you end up needing to pull the head just drain the coolant before you take off the head
 
Pulling the head isnt bad, I did it in my back yard with a friend at night with a shop light hangin from the hood latch so I think you should be ok with it. Definitely drain the coolant tho!!
Matt
 
66pony":33ve8q3i said:
All i have to say is.................WHAT WENT WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I raced my 200 that is souped up, bored .040 decked the block .040, milled the head .060, flatop pistons, rotating assy' balanced, crank turned .010-.010, msd box, electric fan, hi-po ignition distributor, ported-polished head, bigger intake valves header, clifford 272 cam, 1 bbl., rhoads lifters, and all i got out of the 1/4 was this: my best time was 17.323 sec. @ 77.748mph with a reaction time of .631 and my second run was 17.357sec. @ 77.600mph with a reaction time of .298 I thought we could do in the 13's or 14's or even 15's, what went wrong???what must i do to get faster? i already spent close to five thousand into the engine!!! help me out, any ideas
has any one else ran the 1/4mi.? :x :x :x
HIS TIME WAS 16.474 SO I WAS ONLY .8(EIGHT TENTHS OF A SECOND BEHIND HIM AT THE FINISH LINE..NOT TOO BAD I GUESS??)

although there is one good thing---the 1st race, i was against a 350, 4 bbl and i had him off the line and half way through and he pulled ahead just before the finish line( i think his secondary's kicked in) if i would've raced a 302 or similar i think it would've taken him all the way!!!!

You need at least a 500 cfm carb to support all those mods. Your compression is up there too and Rhoads lifters are not recomended for high compression engines.
 
If you realy want to get down 4 to 6 motorcycle carbs can be adaped to the log manifold or machine the manifold off and make your own.
 
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