A
Anonymous
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Im installing a rebuilt headon a 200 in my falcon. I need to know what I should torque it to and what pattern also any tips......never tried this before
First measure your CC's. See Mustang Geezer's website for how to do this. Ignoring this step will make troubleshooting any issues after installation, really difficult. Also measure your piston dish, overbore and deck height.
When you're done measuring, go to the Schjeldahl Bros' compression calculatorand plug in your numbers to get compression ratio. If you need to and can afford it, now is the time to correct any low CR situation.
Then, assuming your mating surfaces are clean, level, threads are clean and chased to the bottom of the holes, place the gasket the CORRECT way forward on your block and lay the head down atop.
A finger smear of clean motor oil should be applied to the threads of all head bolts and the underside of the heads, although some people prefer to use a non-hardening sealer like Permatex for holes that go straight through into the water gallery. I use grease sometimes for these, instead. Bring all the bolts up finger tight. For the next stage of tightening, note that I use the left hand margin to denote front of the motor and the back of the motor is to the right. Numbers indicate order of tightening:
Front: (14) (07) (03) (02) (06) (10) (11) :Rear - Spark Plug side of head
Front: (13) (08) (04) (01) (05) (09) (12) :Rear - Log side of head
Torquing is done in three stages. Use the best torque wench you can get your hands on, a good-fitting socket and try to keep the wrench square to the bolt head for accuracy. First step is to 55 foot-pounds.
Second step is 65 foot-pounds after a 20 minute rest.
Third is 75 foot-pounds but let it set overnight first if possible, or at least 20 minutes. Your "pull" to tension slould be slow and smooth; an underhand technique helps avoid rapid movement that may cause the wrench to false trigger.
Post back when you're that far down, and we can then tell you that the rocker pedestal bolts go to 35 foot-pounds and may benefit from mild Loctiting. Use assembly lube on the tips of valves, rocker arms and both pushrod ends.
Other stuff: Put your thermostat in the CORRECT way around (no further comments here
) and don't crack its housing. Don't overtighten the valve cover bolts read up past posts for how little tension is needed.
I won't wish you luck - you shouldn't need it after this much info!
Adam.
When you're done measuring, go to the Schjeldahl Bros' compression calculatorand plug in your numbers to get compression ratio. If you need to and can afford it, now is the time to correct any low CR situation.
Then, assuming your mating surfaces are clean, level, threads are clean and chased to the bottom of the holes, place the gasket the CORRECT way forward on your block and lay the head down atop.
A finger smear of clean motor oil should be applied to the threads of all head bolts and the underside of the heads, although some people prefer to use a non-hardening sealer like Permatex for holes that go straight through into the water gallery. I use grease sometimes for these, instead. Bring all the bolts up finger tight. For the next stage of tightening, note that I use the left hand margin to denote front of the motor and the back of the motor is to the right. Numbers indicate order of tightening:
Front: (14) (07) (03) (02) (06) (10) (11) :Rear - Spark Plug side of head
Front: (13) (08) (04) (01) (05) (09) (12) :Rear - Log side of head
Torquing is done in three stages. Use the best torque wench you can get your hands on, a good-fitting socket and try to keep the wrench square to the bolt head for accuracy. First step is to 55 foot-pounds.
Second step is 65 foot-pounds after a 20 minute rest.
Third is 75 foot-pounds but let it set overnight first if possible, or at least 20 minutes. Your "pull" to tension slould be slow and smooth; an underhand technique helps avoid rapid movement that may cause the wrench to false trigger.
Post back when you're that far down, and we can then tell you that the rocker pedestal bolts go to 35 foot-pounds and may benefit from mild Loctiting. Use assembly lube on the tips of valves, rocker arms and both pushrod ends.
Other stuff: Put your thermostat in the CORRECT way around (no further comments here
) and don't crack its housing. Don't overtighten the valve cover bolts read up past posts for how little tension is needed. I won't wish you luck - you shouldn't need it after this much info!
Adam.
Adam hit most of the points. I would get a shop manual...worth it's weight in gold on these issues.
Here is one hint. Use some old head bolts and make guides out of them. What I mean is to cut the heads off (cut right below the head of the bolt) and then cut a flat head slot in the top.
Then put 3 or 4 of them on the corners, put the gasket down, and then put the head on.
This makes lining up the head and gasket infinitly easier. Once the head is in place, pull one bolt out at a time and replace it with a new head bolt, but do not torque down until you get to it in the order.
Slade
Here is one hint. Use some old head bolts and make guides out of them. What I mean is to cut the heads off (cut right below the head of the bolt) and then cut a flat head slot in the top.
Then put 3 or 4 of them on the corners, put the gasket down, and then put the head on.
This makes lining up the head and gasket infinitly easier. Once the head is in place, pull one bolt out at a time and replace it with a new head bolt, but do not torque down until you get to it in the order.
Slade
A
Anonymous
Guest
Thanks for the advice, hope its as easy as it seems! One last thing, anybody know what size the exhaust manifold bolt and studs are....the old ones arent going to come out. Thanks alot
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