Information about wood needed

tri-power 250

Well-known member
I know this isn't a typical 250 question, but I am in the final stages of building a carburetor manifold adapter for the E0 head and 3 Carter/Weber carburetors. The wood material I used is Lauan and I need help with the glue choice I should use putting the model together. Can someone help me with this? I started using Elmer's construction glue, but I'm not sure this is the best choice.
Thanks,
Ken
 
Epoxy type would probably be better since it's around fuel.
 
tri-power 250":1n2m3wgg said:
I know this isn't a typical 250 question, but I am in the final stages of building a carburetor manifold adapter for the E0 head and 3 Carter/Weber carburetors. The wood material I used is Lauan and I need help with the glue choice I should use putting the model together. Can someone help me with this? I started using Elmer's construction glue, but I'm not sure this is the best choice.
Thanks,
Ken



any chance of some pics' ? , I'd like to see what you're whittlin' together...

a good wood glue is stronger than the wood fibers but with fuel vapors and temp?.. . I use solvent based construction adhesive ("Liquid Nails" type) for many projects where some elasticity is preferable retained , it may be option ? ...

'currently working up plenum-manifold adapters for small Eaton supercharger for tri-power ported head/250 and interested in your project. I've been looking at available cutting board materials.



have fun
 
Cutting boards vary in the material from which they are made.
I made had one that deformed from the heat on the manifold.
Sort of melted.
 
A wood spacer on the Falcon six , will NOT last in normal day to day driving ( ever see one on a factory produced vehicle ? ) , and is a fire hazard
 
FalconSedanDelivery":m5xuekwi said:
A wood spacer on the Falcon six , will NOT last in normal day to day driving ( ever see one on a factory produced vehicle ? ) , and is a fire hazard
I doubt both of those.

Depending on the density of the wood I could easily see it not warping and withstanding the clamping force necessary (maybe teak? check out some marine supply stores if you can). But the fire hazard? No way, the head itself isn't going to get hot enough to ignite the wood, maybe if it was in direct contact with the header it would, but I doubt it. There are rubbers and plastics under the hood of an average car that are more of a fire hazard than a piece of wood would be, especially if those rubbers or plastics get soaked in oil or carry too much current.
But something bolted to the top of the head? Just not enough heat to worry about combustion.

Also, you don't see many of factory cars because metal is (generally) much easier to work, much more reliable, and much much longer lived. Do you know how long you'd have to cure oak to get it to a state it could be workable? and then you'd have to first inspect the wood before working it, then after you had machined and worked it you'd have to check it again to verify that it hadn't cracked or become damaged.
Metal you just pour it and make sure it filled the mold completely, then mill the surfaces you need to and you're off and running.



Hyde glue is a pain, but it stands up to a ton of solvents (including gasoline, I believe) and works with a large variety of different surfaces. Stay away from Gorilla Glue, that stuff sucks as it expands as it cures so you never get a real decent bond.
 
Problem with wood is that you have to completely encapsulate it around moisture, including FUEL. You mention the marine stuff, trust me, that is an area I know. The wood will absorb all sorts of bad things present under the hood (Oil, fuel, moisture, etc) unless it is completely and effectively sealed which will require regular maintenance. The only way I know to do that is with fiberglass, but fiberglass isn't the greatest around fue, which is why most boats now use plastic or aluminum tanks as the fiberglass can break down around petroleum products.

You'll really need to check the adhesives you plan to use as many are NOT rated to be used around petroleum products.

I have to agree with FSD on this, not a great idea. Better to use it as a mock up template then replaced with metal.

The other issue is that Lauan is not that strong or dense relative to other woods. Are you using solid Lauan as generally it is only available as a plywood build.
 
Just to chime in on my experience here. I have used the cheapo walmart cutting board material for a homemade carb spacer when i was having a heat soak problem on my bronco. It worked very well and the stuff was very easy to work with. Never broke down and was unaffected by the fuel and heat in my situation.

Wood spacers and adapters have been used by the aftermarket and I have personally seen them in place on a 400 ford using a 351 Cleveland intake manifold. It is commonly done in that application because there are no single plane intakes available for that engine and the spacers allow everything to bolt up. I talked to the owner at length about this and noticed the intake remained cool to the touch when the engine was running due to the insulating properties of the wood and yes, this was on a daily driver. The material was oak or ash I cant remember, but was a hardwood that was "machineable" and was installed with intake gaskets on either side. A cool idea to that could be used by a guy without machining skills, and if for some reason it doesn't work, what are you out, a couple bucks?

I say go for it, If it fails, leaks or bursts into flames, the worst that will happen is an "I told you so". :beer:
 
It won't fail or leak or burst into flames. Any spacer at that point is withstanding suction not pressure. It has to resist collapsing. And every failure will go inside not all over the place. I will nod in the direction of Cobra Six here, but I see no reason that marine plywood and regular gaskets would not work for a while at least. You could call your piece a prototype and monitor for failure if you think the solution is too sketchy. Then mill something permanent out of more insulating material like artificial marble or granite.

I have Fireslate countertops made from powdered slate and portland cement with binders that will withstand up to 550* without scarring and does not transmit heat. It can be worked with carbide tools of the kind carpenters have. You can probably find scraps where it is milled for kitchens. It comes in a variety of thicknesses but you can stack it to get custom thicknesses and seal it with marine glue,

http://www.fireslate.com/pages/home.cfm
 
There was a fellow on the big six forum that bought a sheet of phenolic resin and cut a bunch of spacers and sold 'em.
I've looked for some on ebay but it's a bit pricey for me atm.
 
he.. he..huh..hehe .. .. . you like, said 'wood' dude ... . .hehe .. hehe...

cast.jpg
 
Thanks for your replies.
I am now looking for hi-temp epoxy, and a fire extinguisher, just in case there's a fire! :P
Thanks again,
Ken
 
StrangeRanger,
As Ludwig pointed out, this is just a prototype to see if the 3 carbs will workout.
If they do work, I'll have to learn how to mill a piece of phenolic.
My idea is to keep the carbs as cool as possible, that is why I gave up on the Aluminum adapters I originally made.
In my prototype, I planned to add aluminum tubes in the ventries to keep the fuel away from the wood model. I just needed help with which type of glue to use.
Thanks for your help and suggestions.
Ken
 
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