Inlet manifold on XF...

[Anonymous]

How would I go about changing the inlet manifold & carbie on my XF Falcon?
...There's a heap of vacuum shit interconnecting the two...

It's an Alloy Headed and carbied 200 X-Flow (soon to be stroked to 250).

 

[Anonymous]

..There's a heap of vacuum shit interconnecting the two...
What does this mean?
Noel.

 

[Anonymous]

Vacuum tubes/hoses... Going from the Webber carbie to the stock 250 XF intake.

What are you supposed to do with all the tubing that leads into the original XF webber if you stick an aftermarket carbie/manifold on?

 

[Anonymous]

just a quick question, why would u want to take the original carby off? it is already oversized for the engine and can cope with a great deal.

depending on what the vacuam lines go to, u either work out a way to keep them connected or block them off. about the only thing u dont want to reconnect is the e.g.r. as everything else is there to improve the way the engine runs. the egr is the only power zapping part of the emmision control.

 

[Anonymous]

I didn't know that ay!
I always thought the XF webbers were shit! ...Oh well, maybe that's because I had a heap of trouble with my carbie... makes me sorta dislike 'em!

Do you have any idea what cfm those carbies flow?
Also, is the stock intake good enough to deal with an upgraded engine?

 

[xctasy]

it is already oversized for the engine and can cope with a great deal.

Case One:

Throttle diameter, 1982 TF Ford Cortina 2.0 litre, 36 and 32 mm, wide open throttle. Thats 2.824 sqaure inches for 121.6 cubes of engine. Every sqaure inch of throttle is being serving 43 cubes of engine. The carb couldn't deliver more than 125 hp, and had to be replaced by one 2-bbl 500 Holley to get no more than 170 hp, and then twin Weber DHLA 48's to give more than 180 hp.

Case Two:

Throttle diameter, 1982 XE Ford Falcon 4.1 litre, 34 and 34 mm each, wide open throttle. Thats 2.815 sqaure inches for 249.5 cubes of engine. Every sqaure inch of throttle is being serving 89 cubes of engine.

So the Falcon has half the comparitive carburation of a breathless Cortina. The carb is fractionally smaller, and its only the bigger chokes that allow it to give 131 hp on a 4.1.


The Weber cannot function if the throttles or chokes are enlarged any more. As a stock mileage maker, and emissions carb, its a winner. Ford used all Chryslers C180/Centra, and Fiat 131 development expericence on this AD-series carb, and its quite brilliant for what it does. But its not a performance piece at all.

I doubt theres any more than 180 hp there, evn if its backed by a perfect cam, head and exhast.

Off course, I've been wrong before....

 

[Anonymous]

So what carb/manifold combo would you recommend XECUTE?
And what happens with all the emission stuff?

 

[xctasy]

lost me **** info while posting. Duoh!

I just need to know if its the XF with the indicator lens in the bumper. If so, its unleaded, and may need a little work.

I'd just use the stock intake, stock hot wire heater under the carb, and get the Gregories or Elleries or Ford workshop manual and work through every emissions device.

Theres an electric choke

Theres the postive crankcase ventilation valve.

An idle stop solenoid

A fuel return line

A Thermatic Valve which is operated by heat

There's a heat stove on the air-cleaner

There's a hot wire below the carb on some XF's to heat the fuel

There's a set of red, green and black vacuum lines which cover the carb.

There's a vent tube which goes to the charcol canistor.

There's an Exhast Gas Recirculation line which runs off the exhast to an egr diaphram, and heats the water and intake in the intake manifold.

There may be a cat' in yer exhast, possilby a two way kind. Never checked it, but some cars got a locked in fuel /air mixture, not a later adjustable fuel air ratio. I'll have to check with backlash..

All these bits work really well, and only take about 5 kw of the engine power. Even a catalyist exhast is not restriction if its in good shape.

Trick is to undate the carb to a 500 Holley 2-bbl, and do bare miminum to get it through the roadworthy. Theres just an electric choke to fit. A later float bowl which has a vent to the evaporative emmisions canister, a way of hooking up the earlier non-Weber XD fuel pump without the return line. And a means of allowing all the existing plumbing to fit. Have a carb specialist plug the idle mixture, and run some 69 jets if you plan to run it fairly close to stock.

There is no reason why you can't get it legal. Years ago, 2.0 and 2.3 OHC Fords could get 500 Holley carb replacement to the 32/36 Weber they used, and all the emmisions gear was kept so any gawking inspector was kept happy.


I know this sounds like heaps, and heaps and heaps of conditions, but stripping the emissions crud off it will hurt the cold starting and fuel economy. It's there because it works.

Any way, I hate cold start emmisions from petrol engines. They are a nasty pollutant to the air, and us performance types owe it to 'mother earth' to get our sh1+ sorted first. You can have your cake and eat it. Green and mean isn't a contradiction in terms. You don't have to hug trees, just understand how it works.

I'll help, as I've been working on this with poeple from all sides of the pacific. Theres a dude in the states who has this very issue .

 

[Anonymous]

Yeah It's got the indicators in the bumper, but i changed the bumper myself - so it a leaded engine.

Iv'e already got the workshop manual, but hate dealing with all that emission crap... so damn comfusing! ...I just though there might be a 'quick n easy' fix, ie. New manifold + holley carby that would just bolt on with minimal work?

Na, there's no cat converter on mine

Yeah, i wouldnt mind a 500 Holley 2bbl, seeing that im gonna do some work to the engine. So u got any ideas on how to do it?

Thanks Xecute

 

[DYNOED250]

carbies are old shit ... just inject it... never have to worrie bout it again.
i have and never looked back.
dont bother using the xf system its a piece of crap , ya better of making ya own system,

 

[addo]

Only issue there is the fact that a whole bunch of stuff is happening at once. I would have thought that priority was get the engine back to the 250 config internally, even if it was wheezy at the top. Sort the exhaust next, then the induction. If everything else is built right, there shouldn't be a need for backtracking. Get addicted to injecting and you could end up on methadone. (Where's the Keef emoticon? :roll: )

Cheers, Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

True...
But I was just curious anyway... doesnt mean that I'm gonna do it right away. Priorities are still the engine internals.

 

[addo]

Yeah, fair cop. It probably did sound a bit draconian.

I just try to dissuade people from initially grabbing at a whole bunch of things in the off-chance they might need them soon. Been there, done that, good way to dilute effective spending power.

But it never hurts to be informed.

 

[Anonymous]

I know what ur sayin...
It's probably better not to buy everything at once, but I just wanted to know how to change the manifold/carby to a 500 holley?

Ease my curiosity... u know?

 

[addo]

It would be interesting to hear jmac's thoughts on this, but I am still sold on the Ultraflow over a 4-barrel. So the short answer would be to buy a 500 Holley, a manifold, and budget $3-400 for a dyno tune on the lot. XE would have some good ideas on basic "get it going" settings, but the final result will be found on the dyno, as all will vary a little; enough to make it "worthwhile" (this expression could be argued!).