It fits...sorta. Help!

Roundbodies are tough for Headers :

Hookers:

HEADERTUBEBFHCU1_WEB.jpg


No room to move them either. Starter / Center Link tight.

W/O Starter - Idler arm btwn tubes and frame rail - middle center left:
IDLERINTERFFROMTOPMS_WEB.jpg


Starter clearance?
Hookersstarter3.jpg



Amazing engineering...

Hookersstarter.jpg


It doesn't hit anything now ...

Powerband
 
Bort62":11993nei said:
LaGrasta":11993nei said:
Bort62":11993nei said:
Yeah that's another good option. Cut the collector off and re-weld it to move the flange somewhere that works.

Offer still stands.

this gets my vote. :) Are we voting? :lol:

Only if you are deceased and/or an illegal alien :)

8) can i vote too? i dont mind dying again :lol: :lol:
 
OK, this seems to make the most sense. There is only one problem, once I torque down the head I cannot get the header in or out of there. So, do I have a shop weld an extension on after I install or before?

Bort62":1u2ycldx said:
Cut the collector off and re-weld it to move the flange somewhere that works.
 
You can't move the header once the head is torqud down ?

Sounds like the entire header could use some tweaking.
 
it can be moved around a bit, but not removed from the engine bay. not enough clearance.

Bort62":8h2um1pe said:
You can't move the header once the head is torqud down ?

Sounds like the entire header could use some tweaking.
 
I don't know what kind of headers you have but mine are Clifford and I don't have any clearance problems. I take them out once a year to paint and put them back in with no problems. The only clearance problem I had was the starter wire stud and I put a ding in the header at that point and I have a 1/2" clearance now.

If I have a starter problem I will probably have to remove the headers to get at the starter. About a 15-20 min. job.
 
michael_cini":381xca3n said:
i have a 250 transplanted into a 63 falcon. its a bit more challenging.

8) i should have noticed that earlier. that then is your problem. you have headers designed for a high mount starter on a low mount starter engine. you might have to redesign the header somewhat to make it fit.
 
i have good news to report. i had previously test fitted the header on with the log head and i could not get it in and out of position without removing the head. yesterday i got the OZ head in place and tried the header and i can now get the header in position and out of the bay with the head on!! i'm thrilled. :D i now have the cylinder head torqued down, but i will still have to modify the header. the next step is to remove the header flange and add an extra length of pipe and i will be good to go. the process continues...
 
can I vote? I am in Florida so it wont count anyways..... :deadhorse:
 
:D One fix that nobody has mentioned is this.
Make a"piece of pie"shaped cut in the collector.Bend collector away from the frame.
Reattach the cut out piece,anong with a filler piece to close the hole.
Seems pretty simple to me.
Leo
 
Maybe I haven't been following along closely enough, but I don't understand the whole "pie shape" idea. At any rate, the piece looks killer!
On top of that, the recent Car Craft just did a dyno report saying how an extended collector (like you show in the picture) added greatly to hp. In their test it was something like 30 hp! :shock:
You may have unknowingly added a lot more "thump" to the Aussie 250 beast you are building.
 
Thanks for the advice LaGrasta, glad I'm doing something right...even if it's by accident!

I have made a crude illustration to show you how the pie shape weld works.

pie.jpg
 
got it! thanks.

I got to get up to your place soon and check this out first hand. This is going to be a killer powerplant!
 
i certainly hope so. i am hoping to do the start up this upcoming weekend. but i'm still waiting for the carb adapter from mike.

LaGrasta":vayxlily said:
I got to get up to your place soon and check this out first hand. This is going to be a killer powerplant!
 
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