K&N filter

Jammer,
Ive used that car on cardomain as a guideline to alot of stuff Im doin!!!! Didnt know it was yalls!! Hows that T5 doin, I saw you put it in, and my tranny is messin up bad, so I thought Ide go T5. Is it worth the swap??? I appreciate all the help!!
Matt
 
Matt I sent you an email with the DIY for the cleaner. Simple stuff.
As for the T5 swap...its just as simple as everybody says. I go the adapter from AL (Fordsix parts) and the mount and stuff from Modern Driveline. I paid a guy $250 for rack time and tools and his welder to put it in. Took me 4 days cuz I had to wait for the flywheel resurface and my new clutch and pressure plate to arrive.

The tranny mounts tight..but fits. The console (if you have one) has to be modfied (see my mods) to bring it to center. I did keep the stock mechanical linkeage and all is well. The improvement was immediate and awesome. By the way..I bought the tranny (remanufactured) from All Standard Trans in Indianapolis for $495! Has a one year warranty.
 
NPD is sending me a catalog finally. Called them up and they did it right over the phone. As for their website for receiving a catalog, the guy told me that it doesn't work and they don't update their site and plus they really don't care for it anyways. :D


How about this for an air cleaner trick. Buy a chrome air cleaner kit for a V8 and then make an adapter plate for the of the top of the carb. After that, rivet the plate to the bottom or on the inside the air cleaner, you could seal it too if you wanted too. Thats going to be my next little project coming soon. :D


Andrew
 
Ill look into the tranny swap, it will be "fun" because Im going form an Automatic to a 5 speed. J/W, where should I get my clutch pedal etc???? I will need to dig one up to install, lol. I like the sound of $500 for the tranny, Ill check that out too. Mine is slowly but surely crapping out, lol, which is a good thing, means maybe it will get swapped sooner.
Matt
 
Hey sprint, There are lots of ways to get a clutch pedal kit for your convert from Auto to T5. You can buy it from many vendors or got the junk yard route...prolly best to start checking the posts by doing a search and read AL's and Geezer's stuff in the tech section. By the way...save some money...no doubt it will chew through approx $1000 by the time you are all done with every little thing.

Andrew,

I adapted a 4bbl chrome cleaner to my 1bbl carb by using the same base..just trimming and buff polishing..why rivet?
 
Jammer,

The hole one a V8 4 barrel carb air cleaner is larger than a 1 barrel. There would have to be an adapter to make it fit and sit correclty. Why rivets? Because they look cool!


Andrew
 
Thanx Jammer,
Yeah, I would rather put done $1000 on a cool new T5 than on a new, or rebuilding my C4. I am tired of it, I love driving a stick,a nd it will be a pretty kool thing to show off at the cruise nights. I appreciate all the help you have given me Jammer, it has helped so much, and if you ever do anything else to your Six, let me know!!
Matt
 
OK Andrew...if yu are into rivets...I just want the base of the new cleaner to fit the carb tight and at the same height...thats whats cool for me..

Sprint... Right now I am trying to convert all my lights, where possible to LED's to cut down on amps...have done the interior group lights...console lights...and front signals in Hi Output LEDS..the brake and turn in the back just arent bright enough..I just picked up 5 super bright wide LED's and I am going to go after the dash gages next...
 
Yeah..I did and I seriously considered them...really I did..but they are prolly more expensive then my paint job...Ha.. I am trying to locate some super white LED 1157's..I know they are out there...I just want to try them..
 
Jammer":27m01kk9 said:
Yeah..I did and I seriously considered them...really I did..but they are prolly more expensive then my paint job...

Only if you rattle canned your paint job! :lol: These are pretty cheap compared to getting the replacement Caddy LED tails.

ClassicMustang.com and Vintage LED are offering a retro-fit kit for '65 and '66 model classic Mustangs. You get a pair of easy-to-install kits for $199.95, plus shipping. Each simple to install kit comes with instructions, all the parts you need to convert your existing tail light assembly, a one year manufacturer's warranty on materials and workmanship, and a lifetime warranty on the LED's. If they ever burn out, we will replace them! Remember, these kits fill the tail light with 96 LED's, far more than any other kit on the market They maintain the classic look of your '65 or '66 Mustang and can be seen well over a mile away! There are cheaper alternatives on the market, but none will give you the luminance, candle power, and quality of these LED conversions kits from ClassicMustang.com!
 
Sprint... Right now I am trying to convert all my lights, where possible to LED's to cut down on amps...have done the interior group lights...console lights...and front signals in Hi Output LEDS..the brake and turn in the back just arent bright enough..I just picked up 5 super bright wide LED's and I am going to go after the dash gages next...

It's great to hear you've come up with some bulb replacement solutions. Have you replaced your instrument cluster lights with LED's? During my restoration process (still ongoing) I discovered in removing the "blue" bulb covers in the instrument panel cluster, the brightness improved dramaticely! Sure I lost the original soft blue hue but I can see the guages much easier now. Now, if I can get LED replacements that would be even better. This way I can reinstall the "blue" bulb covers to give that classic look again.

I thought about replacing the bulb housing to accomodate new LED's but I need to look into this alittle further. More voltage/watt research required.


-Chris
 
Easy 80sixer...I didnt rattle can it..but the guy before me smoothed the body out with a butter knife then HE RATTLE CANNED IT!...besides..for $200 I can do more driveability work on my car...my current brake lights are fine...I bought new buckets and installed new 1157's and lens..so they are bright enough...My whole goal was to reduce the amount of current draw...So my travels have taken me to electronic flashers..and of course I just bought 12 super white LEDS with grommets for the dash..I just havent gotten around to choosing the 5v or the 12v setup..
 
Jeez louise...now back to the original topic...I found a K&N filter for my 9" modded air cleaner PT# E2710 and will order it soon. That completes my intake for the 1bbl...so I prolly wont go with another 10" Holley.

Hey 200Stang...how come you dont join the SMMC in STL. We did a cruise a month ago and it was OK...PM me if you need some more info.
 
Tony,

That is the place I have been looking hard at. My point here is that LED's use a minute fraction of amps compared to original stock bulbs. They do not suffer from vibration and most of all do no heatup and discolor any lens they happen to be near. The real deal is the reduction in AMP draw.

The impact from replacing the interior bulbs was fantastic. And i dont have to worry about getting my hand burnt under the dash if I left the doors open too long. I have now converted my console lights..added one to the glove box and will soon add two for the trunk.
 
Tony....I did buy the red LED and installed it and did a test with the standard 1157 in the other bucket...yes the LED's were dim at night..which means they would be very dim during the day. I was out tonight browsing and saw the super XENON bright white gas bulbs 1157's and for $9 it might be worth a try...(Is it safe to put gas bombs and a spark so close to the gas tank?)

I did find some interesting things...like the longer oil filter for 5qts instead of 4.5....Holley makes a chrome 9" round..and K&N makes a 9x2 filter, bought a B&G fuel gage and Tee for $24, and still looking for fuel line insulation...
 
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