Last minute check / engine rebuild

[80Stang]

The power of these bulletin boards is the members; more eyes, more talent. For a lone novice engine builder like me this hopefully provides a benchmark for the next engine. So what is your opinion, is there something in the following recipe to put special attention to, some easy change to gain power or MPG? This is the last minute, engine & head are primed and waiting for the color, then everything will be put together.

Thanks in advance!

Block
'80 Mustang D8DE Ford 200cid 6-cyl engine
- crankshaft journals: -.010, new bearings Federal Mogul
- crankshaft checked for cracks, chamfered oil holes
- cylinders bored +.030 and honed
- deck milled -.030 for zero deck height
- new Speed Pro 2.3L 4-cyl. HSC engine pistons (flat top) & Speed Pro piston rings
- connecting rods polished and media blasted
- connecting rod big ends honed
- new connecting rod bolts ARP 289/302
- rotating assembly balanced (crank, damper, flywheel, clutch)
- new ARP flywheel bolts
- new clutch (pressure plate, clutch disc, pressure bearing, pilot bearing)
- flywheel clutch face machined
- new cam bearings (std) Federal Mogul
- new Ford Six Performance Parts 274-SDS cam
- 274/274 advertised
- 224/224 @ .050 lift
- .480 lift with 1.6 rockers (.456 with std 1.52 rockers)
- new Sealed Power lifters
- new Comp Cams timing chain

Head and valvetrain
'80 Mustang D0DE Ford head
- new Sealed Power & Federal Mogul valves, standard size (1.75 intake, 1.39 exhaust)
- valve job with extra 30-deg. backcut
- seat job
- new bronze valve guides (K-liners)
- new Comp Cams valve springs
- new Ford V6-4.0 engine one-piece valve retainers and locks
- standard non-adjustable rocker arms, 1.52 ratio
- intake welded and milled for new Redline 2V adapter plate, direct attach
- combustion chambers polished and valves unshroud slightly
- valve pockets and valve guide ends reformed
- exhaust ports polished and ported
- new Clifford port divider installed
- milled to achieve 9.5 CR with Victor Rentz head gasket (.045)

Carburetion & fuel/air delivery
- rebuilt Autolite 2100 / 1.14 C5ZF

Ignition
- '80 Ford Duraspark breakerless distributor w/centr. & vacuum advance
- new MSD 6A ignition module
- new Ford Motorsport SVO Ultra Coil
- new Ford Racing 9mm spark plug wires
- new Motorcraft BSF42C plugs (may change, but these typical V8 plugs are one step colder from std BSF82C)

Exhaust
- Ford Six Performance Parts single out headers w/ceramic jet-hot coating
- exhaust pipe 2.5" / 2.25", no catalysators
- new Dynomax super turbo muffler, 2.5" inlet/outlet

 

[gtm1086]

Looks good. Although you will probably have to run premium fuel. Do you plan on any dyno testing?

 

[80Stang]

Do you plan on any dyno testing?

Yes of course, but probably not before summer.

 

[MustangSix]

With that cam you should be able to go above 9.5:1, possibly as high as 10:1 depending on the overlap. It will probably not idle well below 1000 rpm, but should make good power.

IIRC, you have an SROD? If so, You may want to consider a T-5 or other close ratio transmission (adapt a Volvo?). I'm not sure of your rear geaars either, but something over 3.50 would be preferable. I think this is going to be an engine that will not like to be lugged at low speed, but will be lots of fun at higher revs.

When I get home I'll run EA for you. Do you have the cam specs?

 

[addo]

Based on Bryce's experiences, a quick check for valve spring compressed height vs binding would be ideal.

Which break-in method are you intending? To treat it gently at first, or just drive as normal, or to run it hard? The methods all seem to have their supporters now, and reasons why "this method is best". I'm still puzzled myself!

On the crank seals: It is supposed to be good practice to rotate the crank after main caps are installed, 40-odd times before the rods and other parts are attached. This spreads the lube around your oil seals as required on startup. Also remember the 1/32" offset of the seal mating faces compared to the rear main bearing cap, and a dab of appropriate sealant. See WSAIII's posts on this matter.

I'm looking forward to hearing how it all comes together, too!

Regards, Adam.

 

[80Stang]

MustangSix, I lowered the intended 10:1 to 9.5:1 as of the comments on this board.

The SROD is there now, but I have a rebuilt T5 with 0.80 5th gear coming in. I'm also ordering 3.55 gears to the rear-end. I've got 8.8 back there.

The cam specs:
Intake opens 27
Exhaust opens 67
Intake closes 67
Exhaust closes 27
Duration @ .050 224/224
Lift @1.52 rockers .456
Lobe center 110

It is the H-274-0-B from FSPP / Clay Smith

Addo; it's a daily driver (hopefully continues to be), I'll do gentle break in probably driving 55mph to work and back for a week.

Thanks everybody for the feedback, let there be more...

 

[Titleist16]

Since we're on the topic of rebuilding my rebuild guy says to keep my 1 barrel since I'm looking for low end power. He says a 2 barrel is not good for low end but good for mid to high end. Is that true?

 

[80Stang]

When I get home I'll run EA for you. Do you have the cam specs?

What did the EA say?

 

[MustangSix]

192 hp at 6000 rpm, probably very comparable to Geezer's engine.

Using the cam specs you gave, I installed the cam straight up. I bumped the CR to 10:1. EA didn't give any indication of knock. Timing was 31 degrees from 2000-4000 and 34 degrees after that.

It's a peaky engine, as I suspected, but will rev well from 3500 to redline. Not much torque or horsepower below that, though. I suspect the idle will be in the 1000-1200 rpm range because the hp falls off so much.

BTW, ignore the title on the graph. I started with the stock 200 specs and added yours.

 

[80Stang]

Wow! I buy a lot of things but that number... =;?)

My CR is close to 9.5 (HSC flattops, -030 decked, -016 milled, VR gasket). I'd appreciate if you calculated with that, plus what 3-4 degrees cam advancing makes to it, and maybe some bigger carb choices like the ones I have too, 350cfm Holley & Autolite and 500cfm Holley. If it doesn't bother you too much to play with EA a little more...

The project goes on; while trying to find the opportunity to finish the engine parts paint job I keep on building other things to be ready for the new engine; the MSD/coil/elec. fan are upgraded already (btw, MPG got some 7% better due to these three upgrades) and yesterday I upgraded the exhaust; got a late fox vee8 left tailpipe (2,25"), put one 2,5" Dynomax in front of it and some 2,5" tube all the way up to the headers. There is more boooom in the sound now and it doesn't resonate so much at 2800rpm and up like it did before. Welded the bung for the lambda also, but put a spark plug in it 'cause don't want to block a new sender with rich mixture and some oil I burn at the moment.

Thanks alot!