All Small Six Installing and Degreeing Camshaft - 1983 200lm

This relates to all small sixes
Since you have one of the excellent Vintage Inlines Double Roller Timing Chain and Gear set's. https://www.vintageinlines.com/product-page/dual-roller-timing-chain-set-170-200ci

So you could also easily adjust it closer to the recommended setting to if you wanted. The crank gear has nine key ways for adjusting cam timing in 2, 4, and 6 degree increments to advance or retard Camshaft.

View attachment 11261

I am waiting on the crank turning socket tool. It is supposed to arrive today. With that tool then I I can attach the degree wheel and turn the crank back and forth to help find Top Dead Center. What else should I be thinking about at this point in the process?
 
So you could also easily adjust it closer to the recommended setting to if you wanted. The crank gear has nine key ways for adjusting cam timing in 2, 4, and 6 degree increments to advance or retard Camshaft.
Thanks bubba.
I didn't realize that the roller crank gear was a nine key.
That being the case, the +2 keyway should get the intake lobe center very close to 104 degrees ATDC.

Dr Dan
Try the +2 keyway and recheck the cam timing.
 
Thank you all very much.
Okay, I will move the VI. 9 key gear to +2. And then I will recheck the cam timing on the intake. Should I assume I will need to find TDC again? Or can I just locate the piston to TDC and carefully remove the gear?
 
I moved the keyed gear to +2 before finding TDC. I hope this is the correct procedure. I haven't found TDC yet. But you will be pleased to know I still have my cam end play tolerance.

Bronco 1983 engine +2 degree advance 1 IMG_7347.JPG
 
I have never used the multi keyway sprocket before, but the dot alignment does not look right?
 
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I moved the keyed gear to +2 before finding TDC. I hope this is the correct procedure. I haven't found TDC yet. But you will be pleased to know I still have my cam end play tolerance.
It doesn't look like you have the dot on the cam gear lined up with the +2 tooth on the crank gear?
 
I have repositioned the crank gear +2 degrees advance to align with the dot on the cam gear.

Bronco 1983 engine +2 degree advance 2 IMG_7355.JPG

The alignment may look a little off because of the photo angle, but the +2 and the dot align. I hope this is correct because I blazed ahead and found true TDC. Then I proceeded to degree the cam. Now at this point I am far from confident in what the numbers mean. But if you wouldn't mind verifying the +2 to dot locations, I'd appreciate it.
 
I have lost track of how many times I have attempted to degree the cam this time around. Let's just say I am getting a lot of practice. Here's my latest attempt with the crankshaft 9-key gear advanced 2 degrees (+2). I will type up the numbers at the bottom of the video.

View attachment Bronco 1983 engine cam degree advance 2 3 IMG_7366.MOV

My first .050" reading is 2 degrees.
Then I kept turning clockwise, passing .050 two times (.100"). Next the dial indicator reversed once (came over the lobe?), I went past that .050, and came around again and found 30 degrees at .050 (or .100"). OR it could be 150 degrees, but that doesn't seem correct.

Here's my math: 2 degrees ATDC to BDC is 180 - 2 = 178.
178 + 30 = 208. Cam card shows .050 duration as 209 degrees.

This is what I got before advancing the gear +2. But the math is a half a degree "closer" - is that anything? (2.0 vs 2.5)
Thanks to pmuller9 for providing me the language and math formulas here. I tried to just plug in the correct numbers into his exact wording.

Please advise on what I should do correct and what errors I made. But if my readings and math (208 duration) are correct, then the +2 did not get me to 209 degree of duration at .050 as on the cam card. But I didn't move any further away. This said, I haven't degreed the exhaust lifter yet. That may show better/closer results. [edited the numbers]

Thank you so much for the help. There is no way I would have tackled this if it were not for FordSix.com.
 
You are consistently showing a 208 degree .050" duration which is great.
Cam grinders rarely hit the duration numbers spot on and being 1 degree away from spec is good.

However you did move the crankshaft forward 2 degrees with respect to the camshaft but are only measuring a 1/2 degree difference.
The one reason for this is that the degree wheel is not zeroed in the same as last time.
Please double check the degree wheel zero again after you check the exhaust lobe.
 
Whew. Good.

" - the degree wheel is not zeroed in the same as last time. "
Well, I mean I took everything apart. I had to find TDC after moving the gears. I guess everything got moved.

I will double check the degree wheel zero again. I probably moved it.
 
There seems to be some play in that crank turning degree wheel setup that may add some minor accuracy issues. Maybe next time bolt the wheel tight to the crank, with some spacers/washers and the crank bolt, that is how I do it, but only turn clockwise so it stays tight. If you have to go counter clockwise go easy.
 
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There seems to be some play in that crank turning degree wheel setup that may add some minor accuracy issues. Maybe next time bolt the wheel tight to the crank, with some spacers/washers and the crank bolt, that is how I do it, but only turn clockwise so it stays tight. If you have to go counter clockwise go easy.
Absolutely. The crank turning socket tool has one and one half degree of "slop/play" in it. It doesn't snug up tight to the keyway. I looked and looked for some kind of shims, something like "flat sewing needles" to slip in there and tighten it up. However, I learned to keep tension on the clockwise turning, in order to maintain positive force from the tool to the keyway. The tool is nice because you can reposition the degree wheel without loosening the camshaft bolt. But the little hex set screw will never tighten down enough to snug up the tool.

Forgot to mention one more thing: I used a one cam spacer (ring) to tighten the degree wheel against the turning tool. Since the cam spacer is beveled, it added some nice tight tension. The old cam spacer was my washer.
 
The disparity between 2.0 degrees and 2.5 degrees, my first time degreeing at zero +/-, and my second time degreeing at +2, I believe is due to a slight movement of the piston stop depth. The piston stop bolt raised up a fraction. Therefore the piston traveled upward slightly.
 
I have attempted to degree the exhaust lobe about five times. And I am confused. I looked for my exhaust numbers to come close to "exhaust close -7.5 degrees" on cam card, and "36.5 degrees exhaust opens" on the cam card. But I really didn't even come close. I am going to assume there are different calculations for exhaust. Here's the video of my latest attempt. BTW, I bought a new 1/2" drive ratchet wrench. My old 1/2" drive ratchet was a hand me down that was broke. That's why I've been using that big cumbersome breaker bar.

View attachment Bronco 1983 engine cam degree exhaust +2 1 IMG_7371.MOV

Exhaust numbers:
First number at what I believe is After TDC, 56.5. (I am wrong when I say 124.5; it is really 123.5)
From ATDC to BDC is 180-56.5= 123.5
Then I came down .100" to 66 degrees.
And another .050" to 42 or 38. I don't know which number to use.

Any decoding of what I just did is much appreciated. Thanks.
 
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You are not paying attention to the piston as you turn the degree wheel.
The piston is at TDC way before the wheel gets to TDC.
Please zero the degree wheel and show a video as you do it.

I will be gone the next few hours.
 
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