Howdy Back:
I couldn't find a photo on the web, but your shop manual has a good pic of the inside. Actually, the L-o-M looks about like all point distributors from the outside. The differences are on the inside. The older L-o-Ms had a metal vacuum line that screwed on both at the carb and the vacuum diaphram. I think '65s are the same. The diaphram is thinner then the '68 vacuum advance/retard units. You may see a difference with both side-by-side
If you pop your distributor cap and look inside, you'll see two small tension springs toward the bottom as you look at it. The arm from the vacuum diaphram comes up through a hole in the breaker plate and is held in place by a small cotter key. It is located to the right of the farthest left spring. Only the L-o-M distributor has the tension springs above the breaker plate. All distributors with mechanical (centrifugal) advance have the springs under the breaker plate.
FYI- there is a "sticky" in the sticky section at the top of this forum that explains the function of the L-o-M and the SCV. It will give you an idea of how to crutch a L-o-M distributor to a non SCV carb.
Overheating can be caused by retarded initial advance. Start by setting you initial advance at 12 for an Auto trans and 16 degrees BTDC with a manual trans. You also may want to try hooking your vacuum line up to a full manifold vacuum source rathr than the ported vacuum source on the 1101. Get used to reading your spark plugs too. Watch for signs of high heat- glazing, peppering, white deposits and pitting. I like a Champion RF14YC plug for tuning. It is a longer tipped, cooler running plug then Autolite 45s and 46s. They are also relatively cheap.
Also check to make sure that your timing mark on the crank pulley is accurate at top dead center.
Keep us posted on your progress.
Adios, David
