Log intake cut off?

[Anonymous]

Hey and one know if there are any water or oil lines behind the iintake log on our 6's. I'm in the process of moding my head and I was thinking about fixing Ford's little problem with the intake runner. I'll post my design for the new intake.

Is there a head that I should do the work to that is better than the '66 mustang head? later year model? I'm thinkning about adding nitrous to the mix but not sure on tuning the carbs for it. My plan is to go with three 2-bbl's or three 1-bbl's. not too sure on the brand of carb for the out fit. Is any brand better than the other, Holly, Webber, Demon? Just to name a few.

I have made up my mind that I'm going to put a 75 shot for nitrous with a fogger setup. What is the best brand in your opinion, for price and the ease of the set up.

http://new.photos.yahoo.com/mustang_own ... 18986545/0

http://new.photos.yahoo.com/mustang_own ... 18978646/1

http://new.photos.yahoo.com/mustang_own ... 18978619/2

 

[CoupeBoy]

I was unable to view your photos but check out this thread, its got some good pictures.
Log chopping revisited
-ron

 

[Mustang Boy]

im not sure on your question about cutting the log off but as for the nitrous you will find the answers to all of your questions over at this forum www.nitrousforums.com

 

[fast64ranchero]

Look at my old posts, (250 with mill'd off log) I mill'd the log off and built an adaptor plate, along with the intake, the head has been at a prof. porters twice and still doesn't flow as good as Mikes new Alum head, so your better off buying his head, for only a few more $

 

[LaGrasta]

Hard to beat a bolt-on head worth 70hp and weighs far less than stock. It's almost worth the upgrade jsut for the improved handling effects due to the decerease weight.
Since the FSPP head will have bungs already cast for fuel injectors, can't you use one of those to inject a lil nitrous?

 

[CoupeBoy]

Since the FSPP head will have bungs already cast for fuel injectors, can't you use one of those to inject a lil nitrous?

Well I suppose you could but where are you going to find a suitable custom NOS tank for your Falcon?

I'm a little anxious to see the intakes, I wonder if they will also have bungs for injectors. If so I think I'd put fuel injectors (MPFI) in the head pointed right at the back of the valves and in the intake manifold NOS/fuel injectors.

-ron

 

[69Falcon]

Since the FSPP head will have bungs already cast for fuel injectors, can't you use one of those to inject a lil nitrous?

Umm... wouldn't that put the nitrous into just one cylinder?

 

[LaGrasta]

Since the FSPP head will have bungs already cast for fuel injectors, can't you use one of those to inject a lil nitrous?

Umm... wouldn't that put the nitrous into just one cylinder?

you are correct. I was thinking intake manifold forgetting I was talking about a head.

 

[shmoozo]

I was unable to view your photos but check out this thread, its got some good pictures.
Log chopping revisited
-ron

Something I find interesting is the fact that most folks seem to lop off the intake runners flush with the head, machine it smooth, and then weld on a plate to add enough thickness to attach some sort of intake manifold. It seems to me that you could also lop them off perhaps an inch or so from the head, fabicate a flange to weld onto the ends of the runners in much the same way a header flange is welded onto the ends of the primary tubes. I would have the runners penetrate the plate and go out the other side slightly. Weld the whole thing up on both sides of the plate, then you'd use a milling machine to take the runners down flush with the surface of the plate and then mill just a little more to make the surface of the entire plate smooth and flat.

I would imagine you'd want to use a fairly thick flange to avoid warping, and you'd need somebody who really understands how to weld steel plate (or a plate of some other appropriate material) to the cast iron of the runners.

After that you could fabricate almost any sort of intake manifold you like using aluminum tubing, sheet, and plate.

A person who was exceedingly clever might even drill the flange to match the mounting points for some kind of standard intake from some other head, perhaps one of the Aussie heads if that makes any sense at all. (I freely admit that it might not, but it's just a thought.)

Frankly, I don't know of this method would be an improvement in any sense from the other method. It might actually be a worse approach for reasons I haven't considered.



And of course there's also the question of whether or not this is all about to be rendered largely moot when the FSPP head becomes available. Will all these mods to the stock heads cost so much that it will make more sense to simply buy one of the new heads instead?

 

[ASMART]

What is the size of the intake runners for the early - mid 60s heads and the later heads? Does any one know? If you have a chopped head, please post.

Thanks

 

[FAR OUT]

can go 1 1/2" into head w/no runner

 

[73GreenMachine]

I have checked out a number of the options you guys are talking about on one of my spare heads.
It looks like one way to attach an intake would be to press fit 38mm O.D pipe(or tube, I cant remember which is the proper term) into each of the intake runners. This would have the added benefit of reducing the cross sectional area, increasing intake velocity.

All I did in regards to removing the log to get this to work was get out the 4" angle grinder and remove the top surface of the intake. Then, cut a vertical line straight upwards from where the top of the exhaust flange ends (the head is sitting flat on a bench) so that stock extractors can be retained. I will try and dig up a picture, but this worked quite nicely.

My initial attempt was to look at using a 1/4" thick metal flange welded to the end of these pipes to try and mount the Aussie intake, as I picked up one of these to play with. (Funnily enough I have a complete bare Aussie head but thats another story) Unfortunately, Ford has played with the spacings of the two middle ports of the head, creating a misalignment that couldn't be corrected without some nice expensive custom mandrel bent pipe.

As others have said, since the FSPP head is coming along, most of this work will be rendered relatively useless. That is unless we can figure out a good inexpensive way of making it work so that you can have a proper 2v head at a fraction of the cost. While it will be inferior to the newly developed head, it will probably satisfy the needs of the performance enthusiast on a budget, while at the same time allowing you to still use FSPP manifolds (the flange would use the same bolt pattern), so it still supports local business.

 

[ASMART]

How about those pics? You could PM me if you like.

 

[rickwrench]

Here are some pics of logs I (and others) have chopped.


C1xx intake runners are round and about 1 1/8th inch in diameter. This head would be easy to adapt, but the runners are pretty small, you'd have excellent velocity for low end torque, though. This head was cut vertically, 90* to the head surface. I cut this one a little too close to the cylinder, still room for core plugs, but the head gasket supporting surface was not wide enough.
C1xx head:

Intake, exhaust ports:

Core plug hole:

On this one, a D7xx head, I tried chopping just the log off and leaving the exhaust as is. The runners are much larger than the early head and all are unique in shape.
Cut angle:

Ports:

Jack Collins chopped a late head vertically, the ports end up more square when chopped this way. I think this one has a plate attached, as the core plugs are conspicuously absent.

Rick(wrench)

 

[MustangSix]

Actually rick, that is a mirror image of a Jeep 4.0 inline. I posted that to show what a machined off log might look like.

 

[rickwrench]

I always wondered where the core plugs were!

Rick(wrench)

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

if it was me I would cut the top and side off the log. then "notch" and weld in short stubs (2-3" long) onto the runners. blend and smooth them with a diegrinder then weld flangeson those (one on each runner) and have it milled flat. by not doing a large flange you reduce the chance of shirnkage (never a good thing) cracking the head. you could also angle the runners as needed to adapt to a standard flange (or just go with triple webers or maybe triple holleys) you would have enough runner a plenum could just be bolted onto it directly (large hunk of square tube?) this puts machinging at a minimum (you could just grind off the logs sides) and also means little welding.

once I finish my current log head maybe I will give it a go with my other E0 head I have around.