has anyone had problems with the classic inlines timing chain being too loose. im wondering if i should buy a new chain for it or switch back to the stock chain after classic inlines is back up.
loose dr classic inlines timing chain
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tha'ts what i have, i bought it a few years ago, it was loose when i first installed it, now its very loose.
ok ill keep the dr chain, however is it normal for them to be loose when they are brand new?
there are two potential problem areas.Both because these are Detriot designed sixes with large "omg its that big?" production variances designed in...
First, there is potentialy a normal extra 3 thou play in the whole sprocket to crank clearance when its slid on , as the timing chainand sprocket is ex Austraila, and is designed for an Aussie 144/170/188/221/250, and the crank snout on them is ever so slightly smaller than the US engines. Bolt tightening solves that.
Additionally, the timing chain is normally loose in service anyway from brand new. Single or dual, there is play. The factory clearance before replacmentment is very large. If defection is greater than 500 thou, replace the chain.
Half a bleeding inch, ye gods...see the section on timing chain, you won't believe it...
http://vintage.mitchell1.com/PClubData/ ... 816068.pdf
That's why the final HSC's ran a chain tensioner.
First, there is potentialy a normal extra 3 thou play in the whole sprocket to crank clearance when its slid on , as the timing chainand sprocket is ex Austraila, and is designed for an Aussie 144/170/188/221/250, and the crank snout on them is ever so slightly smaller than the US engines. Bolt tightening solves that.
Additionally, the timing chain is normally loose in service anyway from brand new. Single or dual, there is play. The factory clearance before replacmentment is very large. If defection is greater than 500 thou, replace the chain.
Half a bleeding inch, ye gods...see the section on timing chain, you won't believe it...
http://vintage.mitchell1.com/PClubData/ ... 816068.pdf
That's why the final HSC's ran a chain tensioner.
thanks for those awesome spec sheets X 
I know that when i installed the chain a few years ago, there was some play but not anywhere near half an inch. I can hear it slapping a little and I noticed that when I rev it and let off the throttle quickly, the engine acts like its going to stall and I can hear the valve train delay, ill make a vid
I know that when i installed the chain a few years ago, there was some play but not anywhere near half an inch. I can hear it slapping a little and I noticed that when I rev it and let off the throttle quickly, the engine acts like its going to stall and I can hear the valve train delay, ill make a vid
The answer is in my signature.
Water pump might eliminate the room to attache it.
www.fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=69097
www.fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=69097
xctasy":6r7ma145 said:...
The US HSC 2300 and 2500 are thechnically not 3300/200 CID I6 based fours at all, as they use the US/Australian 221/250 cam positioning. The main bearings are 250 sized, and nothing from the 3.3 fits the 2.3 or 2.5, as the 4 cylinders rods, crank stroke are all different. Not sure on the oil pump.
Fours vibrate badly in line north south set ups, which is why you never saw HSC 2300/2500's in rear drive situations. In FWD, West East situations, all the vibes can be largely dampened out using the existing mounts. The timing chain though is still under imense stress, so you may be interested to know the HSC Timing chain isn't Aussie or US 221/250 based, but has been upgraded to a very special 46 link, 0.5" pitch item with 17 teeth on the crank and 34 on the cam. And a really good tensioner. Not at all like the 200 and 250, and the water pump has been placed on the side of the block, so the 2.3/2.5 has lots of space for the tensioner, which is taken up with the front mounted water pump on the small sixes.
I'd like to ask someone with a US 250. Bearing in mind how bad the stock 56 link 1 and 0.625" wide 42/21 teeth system is, wouldn't a used or new HSC Tempo or 2.5 Taurus item just bolt on and fix all the problems. Any one willing to have a go?
Same with the N code 6 inch 2500 HSC rods found on 1986 to 1990 FWD Fords with the 153 cube 2.5 liter engine ...likely to be a straight bolt in to the US 250, perfect to the thousandth to correct the 89 to 120 thou short fall of the 1.531" inch piston from the top of the 9.469" block with the 3.91" stroke.
Those Autoplus timing chain specs cover the Aussie, German Cologne and American engines from 1984 to 2000 ish, and are found in http://autoplus-tk.com/pages/fd.htm
If I'm not mistaken, the key kit is the same between the 8.66" deck 2.3 and 9.38" deck 2.5. Yes, they use the same cam to crank spacing as each other....and the 9.469" deck US 250 and 8.425 and 9.38" Aussie 188-221/250!
HSC 2300 (140) R,S or X code 84~94 FORD, LINCOLN/MERCURY
HSC 2500 (153) N code 86~92 FORD, LINCOLN/MERCURY
Cam Sprocket TK-FD203-A01, 46Link Timing chain TK-FD203-A03 1 Crank Sprocket TK-FD203-A02.
I thought the same. 
here is how it sounded when i first fired it up after the rebuild
https://www.facebook.com/josh.foster.773?fref=photo
https://www.facebook.com/josh.foster.773?fref=photo
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