Manifold to Choke heat exchanger tube

[mysavioreigns]

Well, as I've said, I am in the process of putting on this new manifold. I thought about putting on the old tube, but its diameter doesn't match the new carb. I figure I'll go down to the hardware store and pick me up a piece of copper tubing tomorrow. Question is, on the old one there is a nipple of some sort, and a "nut" so you can tighten it to the choke input on the carb. How in the world am I going to make that? I'm sure there's a way, but I don't know how. I googled for a while to get some kind of answer, but couldn't find any. Any ideas?

Thanks again guys!

 

[addo]

Is it like the brake and fuel hard line "nuts"? They're 45° inverted flares. You can buy the nuts, and use a double flaring tool such as KD-2190.

 

['61 Draggin Wagon]

This is compression fitting. It is a small brass sleeve that crushes around the piece of brake line that you use for the choke heat tube. Copper tubing could work, I guess.
The brass sleeve, nut & line can be bought at your local hardware store.
side note: there should be a slight amount of vacuum at that choke fitting with the engine running.
Darryl

 

[fordconvert]

Most parts stores stock this kit under this number or can cross refernce it to their number.

https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-bin/ ... ry_list=:0


The note about the vac draw is a good thing to confirm, with the 1100's there is a hole in the base gasket that allows this, if you use the wrong gasket or install it the wrong way it wont work. I dont know if your carb has the same possible issue or not. May be worth checking if there is not a draw with your carb before you tear the carb apart.

Also there should be no flow of anything in or out of the hole on the manifold where the tube goes in, its just a tube that goes through the exhaust stream and is open at the bottom. If you have anything coming out there its exhaust and you have a crack in your manifold. Hooking it up with a exhaust leak will kill the choke and be hard everything.