Modern V-6 electronics on equivelant I-6 engines?

[Anonymous]

Using the 170-6 as an example, since I know it's 2.8L, would the electronics from a 2.8L V-6 work with the 2.8L/170 c.i.d. I-6? Basically, and I'm not sure how soon I'll do it, I'll be looking to get me a '60-'65 Falcon coupe, and plan to modernize it as much as I can, while retaining as much of the old school flavor as I can...essentially, it will look as if the Falcon rolled off the assembly line with an EFI 2.8L I-6/5-spd/8.8" or 9".

Until I actually get around to scaring up another Falcon to play with, I'll be content to plan/collect parts for the hot rodding I'll do to the 240-6 in my '66 Falcon Club Wagon van. I'll likely be doing an EFI for that engine, as well, and the hot rodding more intended toward being able to tow my other toys.

Matt in Indiana

 

[rbohm]

8) it will work. rememeber that ford's computers are adaptive in their programming, to a point. as long as you dont use too large a cam, the ford efi system from a taurus wont know the difference. yes i know the taurus is a 3.0 or 3.8 liter engine, but it is far more available than the 2.8/2.9 from a ranger or bronco ll. use a system from say 90-95, as they are the most adaptable, and you dont have obd ll built in.

 

[MustangSix]

It works as long as you stay close to the original design parameters. Taking a 2.8 V6 system and plugging in onto a 170 should work because the displacement, firing order, rpm range, and power output are similar. The ECU should be able to adapt for the minor differences.

Where you run ito issues is when you want to increase the performance. An EFI system designed for a 4000 rpm, 150 hp 3.8l Ford six will not adapt very well to an engine that is a 6000 rpm, 200 ci, 225 hp motor. You just get way outside wht the ECU is programmed to handle. Those are the cases where you need to take a serious look at a programable system like SDS or Megasuqirt.

 

[iceman]

Does anyone have an actual how to to do this swap. It would be something I would like to see.

 

[MustangSix]

slant six, but the principle applies:

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/dibias ... ersion.htm

 

[64.5 TX Stang]

Wow that is a good little article, I almost feel inspired enough to try it.

 

[61Futura]

The 2.8L Ford isn't fuel injected & the 2.9L EFI would probably be confused by not having the right distributor sending the crank position to the ECM which controls the spark advance as well as the injectors. The 1st 2.9's in 86 & 87 had egr valves & knock sensors that you would want to avoid as well. On the up side, the 2.9L has 150hp and the tach redlines at 5500 rpm. If I could only have 1 vehicle, it would be my 86 Bronco II. Even with the crappy top end oiling of the 2.9L valve train. A different engine would be alright, but everything else about it is,,,,,,,,,FUN.

 

[rustysmustangs]

hello
all you have to do is use a distributor from a 2.3l ohc eec-iv and put the 200 gear on it . i have done it before

 

[rustysmustangs]

and take the signal wheel for inside the distributor and change it to one from the 6 distributor. put on a 6 cylinder cap and the rotor button

 

[61Futura]

When you say you've done it, does that mean you have converted a 200 to fuel injection using the EEC-IV parts? And if you have, did it all work together okay? And hearing how you made the fuel fail would be interesting. I could probably figure out the rest of it. I've got 2 200's in the garage to work with and could find a junker Ranger or BII to get all the EFI parts for cheap and use other parts for my current BII. Not that it needs any parts right now.

 

[rustysmustangs]

hi again
i done the eec-iv converison a couple of years ago. you take the head off and drill each port. get a piece of 1/2 inch id( i think) copper pipe and and cut 6 of them about an inch long. epoxy then into you holes you made in the head. the easiest way to do the throttle body is to used a 2.3l ohc turbo trottle body because it already has the idle air control valve. take off the carb heater plate. get a 0.25 inch steel or alum. plate and used a bi metal hole saw and bore a hole to match the intake opening (make sure the plate is as large as the base of the throttle body. drill 4 holes to match the throttle mounts and two to match the intake. counter sunk the two to bolt to the intake and used counter sinking bolts. grind off any parts of the bolt heads that are above the plate. make a gasket for the base plate you just made and bolt it down. used the ford gasket for the throttle body and bolt it down using bolts washers and nuts.then you take the heater hose connection nipple off of the water pump and replace it (i used one from a 1990 taurus v6) this give you a place for the coolant
sensor for the computer and a place to reconnect your heater hose. drill and weld on a bung for your o2 sensor somewere on or close to your exhaust manifold. get a high pressure fuel pump from a merkur xr4ti or a mid 1980's ford truck (the one on the frame rail) mount it close to the tank. also get a cheap electric low pressure pump (one for a carb) to feed it ,as the high pressure pump will not pull fuel very well. i used the stock steel fuel line( with compression fittings and the fuel injection rubber hose at the nesessery connections. also used a 5/16 steel return line (just ordered a replacement line from national parts depot. if your tank has a drain plug you can intall a barbed threaded connecter and connect it here. if not,take out the metal pipe (were the fuelhose connects and weld on a steel connection. i used the drain plug return cause it was simple and hidden from sight. i used the wiring harness from a 1989 ranger with a 2.9 l v6 because it has no egr or air pump to fool with. the computer wires up like a hi tech radio. best to get a wiring diagram for what ever car you get the computer from. anyway all ford eec-iv computer are 60 pins and use very similer pin locations. i think (its been a while since i have done this) you have 2 switch on hot wires, one key off hot wire, 2 grounds and a case ground. all other wires ,other then the ground for the fuel pump relay, connect to the engine . one other connection is a run start connection (some use this and some dont) this is at the distributor
and run a switched 12 to run and connect the other wire to the start side of the starter relay. just like a duraspark converison!!! plug in all the connections to the engine and get a scanner to check for codes. this is how i putt fuel injection my 66 mustang and was pleased with it. drivablitly increased 100% fuel economy increased and was a lot more enjoyable to drive (not cold natured any more) if you are still with me thanks for reading

 

[61Futura]

I've done a copy & paste of it for future reference. It sounds like you have the throttle body aiming straight up. Any trouble getting an air filter box hooked up to it that way? Does the 89 2.9L still use a MAP sensor or did you use a MAF sensor. If MAF, was that part of the throttle body or on the airbox? I haven't looked at an ACT sensor to see how deep it goes into the intake runner, but I would guess that is fairly simple to install. The 2nd gen. 1.9L has the ACT sensor in the air filter box, but I don't know if it can be used with the 89's computer.

 

[Anonymous]

The Ranger 2.9's were MAP so no MAF to mess with.

I'm not scared of wiring anything but I am amazed a 2.3 distributor will drop right in with a gear change. I'd like to see some shaft diameters mentioned.

 

[rustysmustangs]

all you have to do for the distributor is put the 200 gear on the 2.3l dirtributor, install the 6cyl pickup wheel and the 6 cyl rotor and distributor cap. also measure the distence from the bottom of the gear to te bottom of the mounting flange of your old distributor and make sure when you put the gear on the 2.3l distributor its the same. as for the throttle body sticking straight up i had a friend to weld an outer ring on the throttle body so i could put a low profile air cleaner. it looked like a carb. when you remove the the spacer /heater adapter it is no higher then stock