Modifications / Improvments to 200 engine?! New owner!!

[Anonymous]

Hello!

I've recently bought a nice '65 Mustang with a low mileage 200ci straight 6 engine. It is pretty much original, except the replacement of newer dist, carb, plugs, etc.

I'd really like to know what some of the cost effective, and more expensive, ways there are to modify / improve power in my engine? I'm new to this, and don't know what items are on the market.

I am located in England! Thanks!!

 

[strat1960s]

Welcome to the fold!

There are countless mods you can do to your motor, but before you go making up a wishlist, you should ensure your motor, transmission and brakes are working properly. If there is something wrong, no matter how small, some modifications will amplify the problem.
Here are a few mods to consider:

Dual headers and dual exhaust pipes.
A beefier camshaft.
Roller rockers.
Duraspark or Pertronix ignition systems
Convert to a 2 bbl carb or a small 4 bbl carb.
Multiple cabs.
Australian head to replace the stock head.

I hope some of these suggestions are of some help to you.

Ted

 

[MandarinaRacing]

Start with the most basic stuff, the first thing I did was to get rid of the points.... here's a topic on this matter.... http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9505
Then you can go to exhaust mods, and then induction.....believe me these simple mods will really wake up your engine...

Alex

 

[Asa]

one thing these guys didn't mention is where to get all these wonderous parts
check out www.fordsixparts.com for all your speed needs

 

[TheDude]

Then you can go to exhaust mods, and then induction.....believe me these simple mods will really wake up your engine...

Dual out header from Ford Six Performance Parts. Dual exhuast with Borla ProXS mufflers.

Multiple (3 1v carbs are a popular choice) carbs are hard to keep tuned correctly and use more gas. Multiple carbs are better for a weekend cruiser.

The dual out header and dual exhaust really improved my engine performance. Next, I will be doing a 2bbl carb upgrade.

 

[Anonymous]

Hey Welcome!!

Good luck in your search...this place is full of info....and I am suprised no one has pointed out this book yet.

http://falconperformance.sundog.net/

I just recieved mine this week and there is so much information in it that my head hurts.....however the book has a nice section of "Stage" type mod's that can be done to the engine.

Have Fun.

 

[Anonymous]

I've been doing some research since I began this thread.

I can't really afford to add a new intake manifold, and have 2 or 3 carburetors, as it will increase my insurance premium and also decrease my MPG / fuel economy(?).

So, I'm probably going to start with a dual out header, and converting from a single to dual exhaust.

I have found that Clifford produce a suitable dual out header:
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/mustangplac ... exhea.html

But, is it as simple as fitting a dual exhaust system, as on the V8 289 engines, or will it be more complicated than that? I would really like to hear from people who have upgraded to a dual exhaust, from single.

Thanks!

 

[Asa]

I can't really afford to add a new intake manifold, and have 2 or 3 carburetors, as it will increase my insurance premium and also decrease my MPG / fuel economy(?).

dunno how the insurance laws work over in England, but here that doesn't raise the insurance, here all they see is an older Mustang with a 200 cuber
and it depends on how you set up the carbs for how it affects your MPG (or would that be KPL?), if you do the tri-carb setup where the middle carb is the idling carb and the outer two open up only upon heavy acceleration, then it shouldn't really be all that horrible on the fuel economy unless you are constantly mashing the peddle

hope that answered at least one question

 

[Anonymous]

I can't really afford to add a new intake manifold, and have 2 or 3 carburetors, as it will increase my insurance premium and also decrease my MPG / fuel economy(?).

dunno how the insurance laws work over in England, but here that doesn't raise the insurance, here all they see is an older Mustang with a 200 cuber
and it depends on how you set up the carbs for how it affects your MPG (or would that be KPL?), if you do the tri-carb setup where the middle carb is the idling carb and the outer two open up only upon heavy acceleration, then it shouldn't really be all that horrible on the fuel economy unless you are constantly mashing the peddle

hope that answered at least one question

We measure in MPG, but everything else is now metric!

Setting up a tri-carb with the middle idling carb, sounds like it would be complicated? There are no mustang specialists here, and any enthusiasts simply 'buy' their performance. I am really hoping to do this myself, along with some help from mechanic-friends.

Any recommended settings or manufacturers of intake manifolds with dual carb setup? How would I apply the throttle arm / linkage? (If I'm not talking about the right parts, please correct me!)

 

[Asa]

well, truthfully i'm not the man to ask for tri-carb knowlege, for that i'd go to CobraSix he's done it, and since has moved to the Aussie 250-2V head
he should be able to answer most any question, or at least point you in the right direction
as for setting it up and how complicated it is... i believe the most difficult part is getting the carbs tuned together so it runs smoothly and so that they open up when you want them to

as for setting up the linkages, it's pretty much a do it yourself job, you gotta figure out how to do it, but the people here should be able to help

good luck

 

[Anonymous]

I think you would benefit more from a 2v carb, mounted with an adapter seems to be the easiest in terms of beefing up the carb.
The tri-carb setup is not the easiest to retro-fit or tune if you are not up on that...


Also look into a Duraspark or Petronix ignition.

if you put the headers in, with the dual exhaust.
Run a Weber 5200 carb and install a DurasparkII or Petronix ignition you will be ahead of the game.

http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/catalog/08-8008.htm for the carb!
Tom has everything you would need, the carb, adapter, and air filter...
(less than $100.00 for a bolt on...)
add the headers and ignition at the same time, change the distributor to match the carb if you are running the load-a-matic type dizzy..

the best bet is the MSD 6A and a DurasparkII setup...
easy to get parts here in the US, and then have them shipped over.
The dizzy, cap, rotor can all be found locally...
then the MSD unit and wiring can be found at..
www.summitracing.com

LOL

(P.S. I sent you mail!!!)

 

[Anonymous]

Hi (I got your mail, thanks!!)

I think I'd rather upgrade with just one carb, rather than go for a complicated set up. Is this what you meant, by 2v carb? To be honest, I don't know what a 2 valve(?) does? I know what a carb does, but not really how... excuse my inexperience!

Would someone be patient enough to explain how a 2v carb will improve performance?

I've seen one or two bolt on carbs, which come with air cleaner & (adapter if necessary), but otherwise I wouldn't know what carb fits, and maybe end up buying incorrect parts! But thanks for the link.

I do need to do a lot more reading up, but if someone gave me a shopping list (parts, models, etc).... that would make life much easier!

 

[Anonymous]

Follow the link above to Stovebolt and check out the Weber.

Basically...
you are swapping your 1 barrel stock carb which flows a lower cfm rate in place for a larger 2 barrel carb, that is progressive.
It gives you one barrel until the throttle is open enough that the second one kicks in... like Wide Open Throttle (WOT) and on high drive like the highway.

This added fuel is best combined with a set of headers, and some mild engine rebuilding, or at least an electronic ignition.

You would also benefit from installing a Dual Roller chain from FSPP (cheap to ship to you... lasts longer and is stronger.)

Installing a 2bbl carb is not hard, easy enough... you bolt the one barrel to two barrel adapter on your intake, then the carb, then the low profile air cleaner (hood clearance is minimal)

The Petronix unit replaces the points in your distributor for a magnetic trigger (much more modern and reliable - also easy to get and cheap to ship...)

I am sending you an E-mail about the Duraspark upgrade.!


Jimbo

 

[TheDude]

Jimbo,

If you do not mind, would you send a copy of that email to me? I am interested in an electronic ignition upgrade. Thank you.

gt500fbk@hotmail.com

 

[addo]

I recall someone-or-other's autobiography describing a classroom scene with their teacher expanding upon an idea of the British Empire...

Remember boys, you are English, which means that in the lottery of life you have won first prize...

This may be an overstatement, but you do have access to some good gear that can be appropriated for your car. Case in point: SU carbies. A pair of steel flanges can be brazed to the head and two HS-6 or HS-8 units run. Triples look cool, but are more hassle to fit/tune. But any sportscar mechanic will be able to tune the thing with just two carbs.

An electronic ignition upgrade is good, but really benefits from everything else being on song. You'll notice it (benefit) more than fitting headers. Timing chains stretch and tire, heads need servicing; compression ratio should always be checked with the head off. Be sure the external diameter of the tyres is close to stock, or you're wasting RPM there. Plenty of other stuff to tinker with, as has been mentioned.

Cheers, Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

Welcome, diamond-man;

If you go with headers, you almost MUST get the exhaust port divider from Clifford (or make your own) because of the siamesed exhaust ports on cylinders 3&4 that have to be separated for headers...
But - it's tough to put that divider in unless you pull that head. If you do that, be aware of the HEAD GASKET GREMLIN in this engine. Ford used a very thin steel head gasket (.018"-.020" American thickness) at the factory. All aftermarket gaskets in the U.S. are much thicker, which causes lowered compression ratios upon reassembly. The Aussies still can get the steel head gaskets, but using any others means that at the very least, you must mill the head by the difference of any aftermarket gasket minus the steel gasket's thickness. For example, the popular Victor gasket is .045" thick, giving about .027" extra deck height for a loss of about .5:1 compression from where you started. This will hurt your gas mileage unless you milled the head the extra .027" off the head when it was off the engine, which would restore at least original compression.
Also, the compression ratios on these engines were conservative, so raising the ratio improves both power and economy. With the high humidity so prevalent in England, raising the CR would certainly improve economy, but don't get too ambitious with static spark advance or it will get hot in those long traffic queues you enjoy over there.

The Duraspark or Pertronix will both improve the spark for your hi-humidity climate, but if you use the Duraspark coil or the Pertronix Flamethrower coil, be sure to use the Duraspark-type large distributor cap, too. That humidity will greatly increase the crossfire problem with the small caps, leaving you wondering why it runs rough and gets bad MPG after the conversion.

Lastly, try to find the BG products: I'm sure they are over there. Put some BG44 in the gas tank twice a year to clean the intake tract and put some MGC in the differential to reduce friction back there about 20%. Both will improve the MPG in the end.

MarkP.

 

[addo]

Mark, I'm yet to see an Aussie Ford motor with factory steel headgasket. As I've mentioned, thin composite, yes, but not laid sight on the other.

Port divider and headers: Ford made their own headers for the 2V in two different patterns (different installs) and neither used a port divider. Considering they chose to do this rather than either make a new cast manifold or change the exhaust port design, it seems they judged the divider thing less than imperative. Maybe the scavenging was seen to be adequate. Blown gaskets occurred when the lock tabs on the header bolts weren't re-utilised, and they wound open a little.

Adam.

 

[xctasy]

The 66 200 I pulled apart last month had a steel gasket with steel fire rings, and a steel shot in the body of it. But it, like all steel gaskets I've seen on post 1960 cars, had some asbestos flecks at 250 thou spacings like little square boxes
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.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
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[.size=24]. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . [/size].
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I'd say when Mark P is saying steel, this is what he means. The stock Monotorque alloy head gasket sure is a full on composite item.

 

[addo]

That's the one I know as thin composite. The steel gaskets I have seen (albeit for an Infernalnational 345 V8) were asbestos-free, steel stampings with ridges to hold the sealant applied at assembly time.

p.s. Rugby was a nail biter of sorts...

 

[CobraSix]

Welcome,

If you lurk around here long enough, You'll figure out some really cool mods.

Slade