All Small Six MPFI 200 Build

This relates to all small sixes
The problem with the crossflow block is it has a different bell housing and all, right? I've seen the article for installing it on a precrossflow block, its fairly intimidating but I have a spare block I can practice on. if the head is only like $100, I'd be interested if you'r willing to help get it shipped here to Seattle
You can purchase a crossflow head in Australia for $100, but it will cost $200+ to get it to the US. You will then need an intake and exhaust manifold specific to the crossflow; and don't forget the crossflow cam.

If you had a crossflow block, the main bearings are specific to it. The rod bearings, pistons, and other parts from the US 250 can be used. The crossflow bellhousing bolt pattern is specific, but a 4 speed BH can be found and a T-5 adapter plate used.
 
local all ways better (end product). Doing what Jack did, not easy (head too long, make/machine/bolt upa
plate)... The iron head 2v seems uncomplicated. I'd like the VI w/MP/SP efi but cant get w/200 (inc Mike's)
in total number made weather carb or not. Good Luck Ryan, u can do it. Looked at the chalk board one Perry
did on this site ???
 
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I usually recommend either a Holley Terminator X or a Holley HP because all the other components needed to make a complete system are available from Holley and are plug and play without concerns of calibration.

There aren't that many other stand alone, universal Multi Port system out there for a six.
A few are using the DIYAutoTune Engine Management Systems MS3X357-C_BL but by the time you purchase the wire harness and all the sensors, you are closer in price to the Terminator X, and you still don't have a self-learning unit and missing other features that the Holley unit has.

The other thing I'm going to ask you to consider is running E85.
You can run more compression and it will act as an intercooler under boost resulting in more power.
I forgot to address this in my last post but i really don't want e85. I'd much prefer to stay with 92 e10. I'd still like this to be a car i can take anywhere and not just the strip.
 
Yes the bellhousing pattern on the Australian blocks is unique to us. There are bellhousings around to fit the , local BW35 auto trans (common) the 3 speed BW manual trans, the BW 4 speed locally made box, the USA 4 speed toploader, T5 manual box, some hydraulic, some cable clutches, all factory stuff. There are other aftermarket bellhousings too. Flywheel is same flange as SBF, starters are all high on our passengers side. I'm not done any shipping, however its a long way to Seatle from Melbourne. Mustang six (Jack Collins) had two crossflow sixes shipped from Perth to Orlando many years ago, I was involved in this in a small way, he did the first crossflow head onto the precross block many years ago. . If you look on FB market place you can turun up crossflows easily. Heres one ready to go:-https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1721908098270094/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A76c747cf-c63f-4529-84d7-bbe9cc05cd0f. And another:-https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/738443394714681/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A76c747cf-c63f-4529-84d7-bbe9cc05cd0f. This one has our local 4 speed box, these are good things.
Ahh those are all Down Under mate haha. I want them here lol. I already got a low mount 1980 200 block. If I were to change up the game, I'd go 250 and gain the displacement... which i do have a 78 250. But i don't want to deal with the hassle of fitting it in the car. If you'll consider it, I'd love and appreciate a crossflow head.
 
The Terminator X controls the ignition timing and can be used to trigger the ignition system such as an MSD 6AL box if you decide to use the distributor for spark distribution.
If you are running boost the Terminator X will retard the timing as the boost increases.

The Hyperspark distributor delivers the same PIP signal as the stock Ford TFI system where one of the six pulses has a different duty cycle as the other five to mark the timing for cylinder #1.
If the Terminator X can decode the PIP signal, then it can run sequential injection and ignition.
If not, then it is stuck in Batch Mode, and you would have to use the distributor for spark distribution or you could use a Waste Spark distributorless ignition system.

The reason for getting rid of the distributor for spark distribution is to eliminate the rotor phasing concerns and the distributor cap failure problem due to carbon tracking that is common with a high energy ignition system with high cylinder pressure under boost.
Based on what I understood from Holley, if I want only the fuel injection aspect, then I can use the Terminator X and my holley hyperspark/holley control module. Should I want the nifty distributorless system, then I gotta run a different ignition system. The guy said a dual sync would work great but they dont offer that for the 200. So then I'd need to build my own trigger wheel setup, find some sort of cam sensor design thag fits in the distributor hole, and connect it all to the Terminator system.

Would it be smart to stick with my current ignition system, get the Terminator X working, then go distributorless? That way its more of a 1 thing at a time kinda deal?
 
You can purchase a crossflow head in Australia for $100, but it will cost $200+ to get it to the US. You will then need an intake and exhaust manifold specific to the crossflow; and don't forget the crossflow cam.

If you had a crossflow block, the main bearings are specific to it. The rod bearings, pistons, and other parts from the US 250 can be used. The crossflow bellhousing bolt pattern is specific, but a 4 speed BH can be found and a T-5 adapter plate used.
See, my only thing is that I'd need an afapter to a transmission a little beefier than a T5. I currently have one and plan to run it till it blows up. Then swap in my 4spd toploader until I can afford something similar to a TKO or something that'll hold 400+ hp.

It'll likely cost $400 for a head, +importer fee which is about $500. So its another $1000. Not to mention getting the intake/header. I'd much prefer to just roll with what I got, unless i can get a great deal on one here. Plus, if i want to run the 250, i gotta make it fit and run into those problems.
 
local all ways better (end product). Doing what Jack did, not easy (head too long, make/machine/bolt upa
plate)... The iron head 2v seems uncomplicated. I'd like the VI w/MP/SP efi but cant get w/200 (inc Mike's)
in total number made weather carb or not. Good Luck Ryan, u can do it. Looked at the chalk board one Perry
did on this site?
I believe I read on perrys build before but I couldn't find it. I think he did a mpfi, coil on plug, turbo build but i think he ran a cut off log head.
 
Does anyone know where Perry's Ultimate 200 thread went to?
A lot of good stuff was hashed out there.
I think his is fairly similar to my build. If its the one we're both thinking of, I read it a while ago which is where i got the idea of all this when i got the deal on the mpfi intake. I was just going to run a sniper, but the mpfi intake is a lot better especially under boost for reliability
 
Based on what I understood from Holley, if I want only the fuel injection aspect, then I can use the Terminator X and my holley hyperspark/holley control module. Should I want the nifty distributorless system, then I gotta run a different ignition system. The guy said a dual sync would work great but they dont offer that for the 200. So then I'd need to build my own trigger wheel setup, find some sort of cam sensor design thag fits in the distributor hole, and connect it all to the Terminator system.

Would it be smart to stick with my current ignition system, get the Terminator X working, then go distributorless? That way its more of a 1 thing at a time kinda deal?
Im looking to build a similar setup for my 200 in my 61 combo. Im planning to use a 36-1 tooth trigger wheel, and have a machine shop modify my balancer(1v) to have the trigger wheel fit. I fabricated a bracket to hold a hall effect sensor to read the trigger wheel. If you decide to go with a distributor less ignition system, you still have to have something in the hole to turn the oil pump. As for a cam sensors, some people will tap the cam gear for a flying magnet, then drill the timing cover and mount a second hall effect sensor there. Powernation did this with their mopar 221 efi tubo slant 6 build. I'm looking to run a seqential Itb setup from borla on a 2v aussie head.

Edit. corrected tooth count to 36-1

314487119_5728683403857871_5781456790493102690_n.jpg
 
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pardone, a lill off but not far:
Y is the above called a "32-1" when I C 35, 1?
I get the "1" as I seen "2" as well.
-Signed-
... "Beginner"
 
Would it be smart to stick with my current ignition system, get the Terminator X working, then go distributorless? That way its more of a 1 thing at a time kinda deal?
Since you already have the Hyperspark ignition system, use it.
Without the cam sync pulse, does the Terminator X run in Batch Injection mode?

A DS2 distributor can also be modified to supply the cam sync signal by removing 5 of the six reluctors.
 
Im looking to build a similar setup for my 200 in my 61 combo. Im planning to use a 36-1 tooth trigger wheel, and have a machine shop modify my balancer(1v) to have the trigger wheel fit. I fabricated a bracket to hold a hall effect sensor to read the trigger wheel. If you decide to go with a distributor less ignition system, you still have to have something in the hole to turn the oil pump. As for a cam sensors, some people will tap the cam gear for a flying magnet, then drill the timing cover and mount a second hall effect sensor there. Powernation did this with their mopar 221 efi tubo slant 6 build. I'm looking to run a seqential Itb setup from borla on a 2v aussie head.

Edit. corrected tooth count to 36-1

View attachment 18329
What size is that trigger wheel?@ Dragonlich1961
 
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. If you decide to go with a distributor less ignition system, you still have to have something in the hole to turn the oil pump. As for a cam sensors, some people will tap the cam gear for a flying magnet, then drill the timing cover and mount a second hall effect sensor there. Powernation did this with their mopar 221 efi tubo slant 6 build. I'm looking to run a seqential Itb setup from borla on a 2v aussie head.

Edit. corrected tooth count to 36-1

View attachment 18329
Ford australia did in their 1988/ 91 EA falcon sixes did a special cam position sensor that replaces your distributor ( and still drives the oil pump)


4 on ebay Australia now- just need to check shaft diameter where the hex is as ford aust changed around over the years

If you were cluey could modify the orig distributor
 

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"...1988/ 91 EA falcon sixes did a special cam position sensor..."
Thnx so much for citing Y/M/M and part name~

All ways - concerned (well, dumb might B more correct) post '72 (and even pre due to 122/188 or 3.03/3.6L)
as the usa/Oz break in designs occured then. "Will it fit" merican blocks'n such?" is my Q when seeing this~

I appreciate any oe mods (usually thru factory upgrades over the yrs - to improve performance in their vehicles).
In fact, that's Y I come here to get them from our members, then swap inexpensivly @ local big box stores by
simply quoting Y/M/M @ the counter or by phone 4 delivery. 'Bolt ups' have so many advantages.

So I always ask that folk ID certainty of fit when crossing international borders. May B just for me? no stutter step needed for ALL?

And BTW: where would the 4 wires go from which of those 4 pins in the post 39 links. Looks like a much better solution than our member's DIY solutions of the past.
 
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