MPGmustang engine build (Completed)

What sort of hp/torque are you shooting for?

I keep looking at the empty hole where my engine once was... should i do a 302? 351? 200? I think I'll stick with the 200.
 
1966Mustang":2n7z9azk said:
What sort of hp/torque are you shooting for?

I keep looking at the empty hole where my engine once was... should i do a 302? 351? 200? I think I'll stick with the 200.

I'm shooting for stock look, except exhaust, and hopefully 120hp and 180-200 torque... although i'm sure i won't get my torque, i'm kinda sure i'll get the HP.

Yes, there is a big hole right now... :(
 
so here is a list of all the things that went into this engine build...

78 head:
valve guides
Classic Inlines porting
1.75 intake valves
1.5 exhaust valves
3 angle valve job
lighter spring retainers
302 springs
stock rocker arms 1.5 ratio
stock push rods

78 block:
.040 bored, deck is .010, and gasket will be .038
dished pistons
dual roller timing chain 4* advanced
264/274 110* .450 lift cam
HV oil pump
summit water pump
new harmonic balancer
engine to be balanced (flywheel and PP balanced also, and FW resurfaced)
ARP rod bolts


Classic Inlines dual headers... stainless steel.

what do you think the estimated HP and torque will be? keep in mind i'm going from a stock 70hp 140tq to this rebuilt funhouse... My goal is to hit 120+hp at 3300rpm ish... and 180tq at 1500rpm ish... Does my goal, and mods line up properly? besides DUI anything else I could do to keep it mostly stock induction but increase performance?

Thanks,
Richard
 
oh sorry, we are shooting for 9.3 CR enough to run cheap gas, and good enough to put nicer stuff for strip. so i suspect it's going to be 51cc ish
 
I got my head back!!! yay, it's already at the engine shop, made sure they weren't going to do any more work to it, but I have a data sheet that some might be interested in for the large log ported...

http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac17 ... AN0001.jpg
enjoy!

Will post some more pics, I'll be installing it tonight and tomorrow, should be great when finished, does anybody have a good break-in period written down somewhere...

and the chamber size is 50 to 50.5 cc all across, it was milled .045"
 
so here's the short story, I went from a 68 block 67 head to a 78 block and head, I got it back and lowered into the car on Friday, can you tell I'm excited!!

well headers were tricky but soon remedied, and the engine builder forgot the oil pump shaft, I'm lucky they gave me a box of old parts for me to drop it in. need some different bolts for the carb as the new pony adaptor can't use the old studs.

The water pump is the same dimensions as the old one, I got it from Vin Man's post he linked to summit, the T-stat housing i replaced with Mike's billet black, sadly my water pulley hits the t-stat AND balancer, I'm going to have to find a flat housing and smaller pulley, I'll give some measurements later

So question, Does anyone have a flat housing they don't need? I know mike used to sell one due to his article on his website. what kind of car did they come on, I'll be looking in junk yards or dealers if i can find one... sooner the better, other wise just pm me. my zip is 85225

Thanks, Richard

EDIT: The old pulley is 5-5/8 inches diameter, does anyone have something smaller?

EDIT: I found a pulley from "the mustang shop" which was 5 inches in diameter, so it clears the old t-stat and balancer.

Now I need to find what size of bolt goes into the crank to hold the balancer on? I have a fine thread that's half inch wide, but it seems like it's to big. If someone can help, I'd be much obliged.
 
I'm just guessing here, but if you contact damper doctor in california and give them the information/casting numbers from your block, they might be able to help you out with the bolt you need.

Contact Information:

Email: sales@damperdoctor.com

Phone: (530) 246-2984
Fax: (530) 246-2987

Shipping Address:
Damper Doctor
1055 Parkview Ave.
Redding, CA 96001
 
Thanks VinMan and JackFish for the reply

So it looks like i wasn't holding my tounge right, after 2 try's my uncle got it threaded... I guess it was really late when i tried.

well everything is hooked up, I primed the oil pump with a drill, had to make sure it was there... oil started leaking at the valve cover so i took it off to seal with RTV, and #11 rocker arm is not on the valve!!! it was sitting on the spring retainer seat, what kind ...... edited.......... did that! but i fixed it right away.
still couldn't turn it by hand, so I cranked it with the starter.....
IT RUNS!!!! WOOHOOO!!!!

okay, so it's really loud without exhaust, but i'll fix that today. I'll be going to Mesa Muffler, and My cousin has a discount for some medium body magnaflows, it'll be low and quiet, even at higher speeds but still loud enough to be heard... just not deffening.

Thanks to all who posted or followed, and those that I called for help.

Thanks Mike, your expertise really helped out.

Richard.

Oh and my gas pedal I had to modify to make it fit right, maybe some other can post a few pics of theres... Pictures are to follow...
 
Wow - That's really nice, and I hope I can get to that point! While I was staring into the hole in my engine bay, my fiancée decided to call everything off and move out. On the bright side to that - I guess I'll have more time to focus on my project... In between beers I've been polishing my rocker shaft supports - They sure look purty nice all shined up!

Well, Excellent job. Clap Clap.

- Perry
 
1966Mustang":ee1xzic6 said:
Wow - That's really nice, and I hope I can get to that point!
Thanks!! It's been fun... I only hope I didn't rush anything to have it break on me later... You will get to the point, just keep/stay focused on your goal. Good Luck on you project!!
I figured if I didn't do it now (when I'm single) I'll never do it. I deffinetly spent too much on it but it's exaclty what I wanted so I guess I'm not alowed to complain :mrgreen:
I know what you mean... recently lost one too, so I spent the money on the engine instead of a ring.
 
YAY!! UPDATE!!!

So, I got my DUI!!!

I decided to run a new 12 guage wire through a 40amp12v relay, works great!

The difference with the new iginition is just as better from my old to new engine, I can feel the smoothness EVERYWHERE! worth every penny. I find my self having a hard time keeping off the gas, before to maintain speed I usually gave gas, now I have to let go cause she WANTS TO GO!!

I have noticed a few things
Drivability: WAY better response for little gas (I wonder what MPG will be now) (highway speeds are amazing!)
Sound: more throaty, and the high speed drone is not as loud (very nice)
Starts: working on it, but more responsive. Maybe I'm doing something wrong but starts the same as the pertonix when it's 'cold' aka cool @ 110 (1 pump of gas pedal, or slightly hold it until it starts)

HELP!
IDLE: having a problem, with A/C it drops it from 1000 to 500, so I bump it up to 1100, now it drops it to 950. so tried tuning it with A/C on, it's jumps from 900 down to 550, with the AC on all the time. I can't get it to idle at 700! help would be appreciated.

Richard
 
Do you have the electric sol. on carb to bump idel up (aprox. 200 RPM) when AC is on? If not you need to add one :nod:
 
You will need to hunt the junkyards for a used one or you can try a good parts house like NAPA

This is one on an Autolite 4V will give you an idea what they look like :nod: sometimes called an anti desil too was common in the 70's up you could use it to set idel rpm up by wiring to AC switch :unsure:

http://img228.imageshack.us/content_rou ... ia=mupload
 
bubba22349":30ztuzj1 said:
was common in the 70's up you could use it to set idel rpm up by wiring to AC switch

I'm not sure there is a way to hook one up to the 1100-1v :unsure:: It's pretty busy already around the south end of the carb throttle/choke/fast idle cam/pull off linkage (think they could have crammed one more thing in there? :LOL: )

To come at this from another direction, I'm wondering if you don't need to do some fine tuning on the initial & vac advance settings.
A couple questions to further the discussion/diagnosis:
1)Are you still running the Pony 1100?
2)What is your vacuum source? Manifold I would assume...if so is the scv port capped?
3)What initial advance are you running?

MPGmustang":30ztuzj1 said:
drops it from 1000 to 500, so I bump it up to 1100, now it drops it to 950...it's jumps from 900 down to 550

It almost sounds like when you tune the idle high enough to get out of the idle circuit (above ~1000rpm) the load is not excessive enough to bring it that far down (1100 to 950).

I wonder what adjusting vac advance and initial timing would do for you, given your bigger cam and DUI which needs a different vac source than SCV (I'm guessing you already knew that).

What about increasing the initial advance and if you experience pinging under accelelaration dial back the amount of vacuum advance the DUI is seeing (is the DUI vac cannister adjustable like others?). It's very late, so if none of this makes sense in the light of day, I'm going to claim sleep deprivation ;)
Good luck!
 
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