My Tempo EFI conversion

[Anonymous]

If I only had the time.........
It still seems to me that a 250 log head could have the log lopped off and a 4.0 V6 set of injectors could be fitted to the ports. The other factor would be fitting the trigger wheel to the damper for timing and EDIS.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

fitting the trigger wheel is pretty easy....doing it cleanly is the tough part. hopefully now that I am done with school, past the holidays and funerals and the weather is warming up I can get on my EFI conversion. although I think the real possibility of a 2.3L dizzy modded looks like it could work nicely.

 

[fordconvert]

I had time to kill yesterday and it was in the teens above zero for a change so I decided to have a walk through the local u pull it yard. They had a 85 Tempo with the throttle body still on it so today I went back and got it for $16 complete with as much as the harness I could grab and the air cleaner snorkel. Cant wait to get started but first I have to yank the motor to check the timing chain setup and some new gaskets. I was wondering if I could make it run with the analog holley computer I have collecting dust? I think eventually I will go with the MS but just looking to see if I can use what I have first.

 

[Funky Cricket]

see.. that's why i love this place.

16 bucks and an old emu and we are making our own tbi's. who needs fancy bolt on kits
(I do mike, so keep moving forward to make them )

good luck to everyone.

I still think the 5.0 tbi from a bird/cougar/ltd would be great for boost. Might be a littel rich at idle but could be tuned out. I don't remember the gph of the injectors though, but the unit has most of your sensors right on it, all you need to mount is o2, Air Temp, and Water Temp. if i remember correctly.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

don't forget that the 5.0L CFI is only able to support about 175 hp stock. after that bigger injectors are needed.

on a NA motor I think a 3.8L CFI setup STOCK with a TFI dizzy would pretty much do the trick for a 200 or 250. some minor base FP tweaking and I am sure it would give a pretty good setup for the money

 

[fordconvert]

Where can/have you put a second temp sender so you can keep the gauge and run the computer?

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

I moved my gauge sender (autometer) to the T-stat housing as in the block I was getting a low reading of about 10-15 degrees low. I will prob be moving under the exhaust manifold though when I go EFI (there is another port there)

you could also TEE into a heater line.

 

[wallaka]

I will prob be moving under the exhaust manifold though when I go EFI (there is another port there)

So THAT'S what that port is there for. I was wondering...

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

well really that port was placed as a drain (every inline ford block I have seen has a little plug at the low spot on the block) on industrial motors a drain fitting is placed in it. the 2.3L turbo motors used it as a return for the water from the turbo. it makes a handy spot to place a sender (it is a 1/8" NPT hole though. I know the electric autometer sender will fit it but not sure about others)

 

[fordconvert]

1/8"? Thats fairly small for any kind of temp sensor isnt it?

 

[rmoe88]

i havent gotten to this part yet but, why do you need a second temp sensor? Shouldnt the stock one be able to run the megasquirt and your gauge?

 

[fordconvert]

I have not seen anything in the MS info that says you can do that or talks about anything but the common sensors. Have you? Im just assumin that you need a second since thats the way most factory systems seem to be.

Im kinda bummed you have not finished yours yet, was hoping that I could be lazy and let you figure everything out. Got to get the motor out first before I start on the fuel system.

 

[rmoe88]

haha yea im getting bummed myself.
Off the top of my head... i recall reading that the MS is set up for GM type temp sensor. There are three ways of converting it to use in your car. 1 just change your stock one over to a GM one. 2 change a resistor to another value in your MS which is easy to do if your already assembling it yourself, plus they sell the kit to do it so its not hard. and 3 change the software of your MS using this program i saw off of the MS website.

I will most likely do it the software way because it, i think, is free. When i get this done ill post on here saying if software was a pain in the butt or not.

I could be wrong but, aslong as you get your MS converted to Ford or your Ford converted to GM, i dont think running the two systems off of one temp unit will be a problem. Just run 2 wires off of your temp unit, sending one to your gauge and one to your MS. The Gauge wont drop the voltage to the MS at all.

 

[fordconvert]

I would think it would be the other way around, that the MS doesnt drop the voltage to the gauge, thats why there is a resistor change since the gauge is 'loading' the circut that way the MS doesnt have to do the loading. Now that I think about it that would make the most sense. Maybe on the factory ones it was because it was easier since not many cars in the 80's had gauges that way they could use the same sensor or the computer and just install which ever one they needed for the gauge or the light depending on the model. My caddy has about a dozen holes for all the emissions stuff so its not an issue there but I was looking at the old ford and noticed there aint too many spares.

I assume your progress problem (becides the usual time and money) is that your car is your daily driver?

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

you could also run a t-stat housing with a port in it for a sender or fan switch.

I think it was 1.8" it might be 1/4" fitting. I do know it is a smaller fitting and you bush it up to fit whatever (I do have to have a bushing in it for the stock sender location)

 

[Anonymous]

since the gauge is 'loading' the circut that way the MS doesnt have to do the loading.

'
I would say use separate senders. MS wants to see resistance changes only for the temp sender. The voltage coming in from the guage circuit would mess up the readings.

 

[fordconvert]

Hmmm... I will have to do some more reading on the MS site(s). From an electronic standpoint there is no reason the system could not be designed just to monitor the voltage that is already going to the gauge. The resistor change that was mentioned earlier is most likely the loading resistor in the MS circut so as long as there is something to load the circut it should work fine without it... plus we dont have to find another place to stick a sensor.

 

[XFlow_Fairlane]

plenty of room for two sensors. leave the stock sender where it is (it has been discussed that this is a cool spot but the stock sender/gauge is setup for this location) and place the MS temp sensor on the t-stat housing port.

I also have a heater fitting I stole off my old merkur. I think it is called a street tee or something. on the straight section it has male threads on one side. screwed into the head for the heater hose it gives me a place for a temp sender (has two female holes. sender in one and a nipple for a hose in teh other) also works good since it points the heater hose vertical to go up over the intake runners.

some cars have a small "manifold" in the heater line for a sender or thermal switch. you coudl swipe on of those.

 

[rmoe88]

I realy havent looked into this much yet, as i havent gotten to this part. Im just looking forward far enough to make sure i can get my next task done without problems

When that time comes ill test it out too see if one sender will work. If it doesnt or is flakey then i will just run two its not that big of deal, just would be nice to have one.

 

[Bort62]

You don't want to use the same sensor. The sensor is just a variable resistor. The gauge uses a simple voltage divider and measures the voltage downstream of the internal resistor. Most likely the MS does it the same way. If you start adding extra resistors and voltage sources to the mix, everything will be thrown off.