My Tempo EFI conversion

those prices aren't too bad....

but you could also get just whatever harness and bits from a junkyard for $20 or so. anything in the pre 1993 range for the ford bits is all the same on the sensors and all. just find a car with no motor and the harness intact and cut it out.cut off your pigtails and give them a good simple green or similar bath (maybe non cuastic oven cleaner?)
 
Moe$":3x7kf0pl said:
Funky Cricket -- i didnt get your hint :( lol, what do ya mean by heel-toe?

Using both your heel and your toes of your right foot, hit the brakes and blip the gas simultaneously to slow down while keeping the rpms up. This way as you shift gears the engine rpms will match the rest of the drivetrain's, and you won't get that jerking.
 
correct, alot of guys that have lightened flywheels, and all road racers heel-toe, it keeps the engine in the rpm range for power, and close to where you want it to be for the gear and speed, so you don't waste time revving back up to that rpm, and it also prevents the car from slowing/jerking, when downshifting, allowing smooth braking transition. It's pretty hard to do right, but if you've ever driven an old stake truck with no syncro's you learn pretty quick.

you brake with your toes, and blip the throttle with your heel.
Look up clips of "le mans" with steve mcqueen online, you'll see what we're talking about.
 
Yep, also a lot of race cars have dog-cut gears without synchros. So if there is no rev-matching it is impossible to downshift.
 
The main reason for heel-toe shifting is that, especially on high compression engines, downshifting while braking will cause the drivetrain to slow down rapidly which will cause the rear tires to lock up temporarily. This can lead to rear axle tromp or in more extreme cases serious oversteer. oversteer on braking is BAD.
 
I actualy ment when shifting up into a higher gear. When cruzing around town im not shifting fast, and that allows the engine to slow all the way down to 650rpm and then i have to ease it up into rpm for the next gear. When my car is on fast idle (cold) its at 1000rpm and i notice that it engages a bit smoother. Thats why i was thinkin of the idle motor mod. But realy, what do you guys think of it?
 
lol i already broke my shifter lever that i just made from quick shifting :D (just welded it back up along with a new gusset) I already do slip the clutch a tad and it all but eliminates it BUT it would be super smooth if the car idles at ~1000rpm when you shift. I dunno, it is just extra complication, still maybe ill do it is the future...
 
Great post, My son and I are working on the 65 Mustang, 6cyl 200 that I bought when I was 15.

Here's a link I found this morning to Autozone.com that has a pretty good description of the fuel delivery system on the tempo/taurus etc. There's system operation info, exploded diagram of the throttle body, the flow schematic, etc. Be sure to click the links on the rigth side to each of the systems parts.

Autozone description of Tempo CFI Link:
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/12/75/1b/0900823d8012751b.jsp

Scooter B
1965 Mustang Coupe, 200cid
 
nice link.

Welcome to the board.

be sure to share about your car and project as you move forward.
Questions are always welcome, most of the guys here know why more than they should about this engines!
 
Started taking things apart to pull the motor and couldnt resist a test fit. This one has what I assume is the OE TPS that has a cable so it fits rather well with plenty of room on the valve cover, those notches are in just the right place. Now I just have to get the stuck screws out of the TB and a few hundred other things before I can drive it again.

tempotbi.jpg
 
ScooterB thats a nice link. thanks for posting it :D lets see some pictures of your mustang.

Fordconvert very nice, the stock tps is very small thats cool.
"Now I just have to get the stuck screws out of the TB..."
So its not just me, you also noticed that most of the screws in the TB are on freaking tight lol. I had to use heat on one of them it was on so tight.
Anything done on your Megasquirt?
 
Nothing done yet, got to get one orderd. As soon as I get my lift (maybe tuesday!) I want to throw the old Holley projection I got used on my Deville just to see how/if it works then was thinking of trying the MS on the holley/caddy before I start messing with that part of the Stang. The deville is my 'extra' beater car where as the eldorado and the mustang are our main fun summer cars so I dont want them down very long durning the summer which is almost here. I also met a guy thats got a stock 1976 caddy EFI 500 motor in a 84 Fiero that wants to upgrade the computer. The 76 caddy computer was an analog box that was not very tuneable and parts are hard to come by so he wanted to try a MS but is not much of a computer guy so I was going to try and figure it out and help him with his setup in exchange for some help putting a 500 in a Fiero if I decide to get one.
 
Well, I can post a before. We don't have any after pics yet because the only thing we've done is strip and re-paint the air cleaner. :D We did this before seeing the "bolt on" throttle body.

I never thought I'd be tempted to start doing, undoing and redoing this early in the project. ;)

Before Picture

(edited to make picture a link)

ScooterB
 
The 500 fits fairly easily, you use the entire FWD Eldorado/Toronado drivetrain. You have to cut out that little 1x1 foot trunk thing but its just sheetmetal and carpet so its easy, then add new cross pieces to the K frame sort of thing to match up to the larger motor and thats it for mods to the body. The rest is just streching wires and hoses and such. The car looks stock when you are done except it looks like it has a reciever type trailer hitch which is the rear mounting rail of the frame. For crazy swaps its by far the easiest I have seen yet. They were not my favorite cars but something about going from a 2.5/151 I4 to an 8.2/500 V8 without major body mods sounds like fun. Those cars can be had with bad motors for $500 or less around here and I have plenty of the cad parts layin around so it will be a fairly cheap project to mess with.
 
Stardate : 2007
Captains Log,

I just finished running the new return fuel line. I am going to leave the fuel line that is in my car now and use it as a feed line. I desided to do this because it is a reletivaly low pressure system, even the in and out lines on the Throttle Body are just barbed, not threaded. I might get some pictures, but i will have to degrease it first. My old dagenham was a leaky SOB and its dirty under my car.

Also, i guess i wont be testing to see if the stock temp sensor will work :( sorry guys. I had my water pump go out, so before the new one was in i just put a brass T off of where the heater line goes into the pump and threaded my sensor into that new hole. Ill have some pictures of that sometime soon. Its fairly close to the engine block, but it will be fine.
 
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