Mystery carb ?
- Thread starter 1966_l6
- Start date
It's a Holley model "1940" carb these where a replacement type
they are a good carb, i had one on my 170
oldgrezmonke
Well-known member
Here is a link with pictures that look like your carburetor , scroll down a bit - http://www.ponycarburetors.com/default. ... tification
John at Pony says categorically in the video that came with my Pony 1100 that the Holly 140 has no value as a core. That means essentially that he will not rebuild it. However, the carb works. I had one on my car when I got it. At the time, the engine had many problems. I replaced the carb when I changed out the engine so I don't know how they work.
Could you help me ?
Excuses me I don't speak english very well
U speak fine Fred, & I hope I'm not too late in welcoming U to the site n forum. My French is far worse than ur English. Guys on here from Down Under would have trouble 'keepin up" w/your English...Keep talkin to us, lotta great guys here, friendly AND helpful. Helped me save $ AND time. (Come 2 think of it, my english aint so good neither!).
The carb is off the engine? Why? Can U find a rebuild kit?
Wass Up Whid It? Just tryin to ID it?
Excuses me I don't speak english very well
U speak fine Fred, & I hope I'm not too late in welcoming U to the site n forum. My French is far worse than ur English. Guys on here from Down Under would have trouble 'keepin up" w/your English...Keep talkin to us, lotta great guys here, friendly AND helpful. Helped me save $ AND time. (Come 2 think of it, my english aint so good neither!).
The carb is off the engine? Why? Can U find a rebuild kit?
Wass Up Whid It? Just tryin to ID it?
Yes, welcome to the forum 1966_I6 
These folks sell a downloadable service manual for the 1940 and might also be a good source for parts or kit.
http://www.carbkitsource.com/manuals/ca ... CM088.html
This site might help with ID Number if you had one, but it does not sound like you do.
http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/Holl ... dex32.html
Otherwise as noted, this is considered a Ford 'Service Replacement' Carburetor, meaning it was never offered already installed from the factory, but rather it is the carburetor you might have received if for example you had trouble with an original Autolite 1100 and you called ford in the late 60's early 70's and wanted to order a new carburetor (this is what they would have shipped you). You'll find some folks swear by them like '64 200 ranchero' and some folks swear at them (don't like them). The pic on Pony Carburetors' site that oldgrezmonke pointed you to is correct (5th or 6th pic down, titled "Holley 1940"). Good luck
These folks sell a downloadable service manual for the 1940 and might also be a good source for parts or kit.
http://www.carbkitsource.com/manuals/ca ... CM088.html
This site might help with ID Number if you had one, but it does not sound like you do.
http://www.tocmp.com/manuals/Carbs/Holl ... dex32.html
Otherwise as noted, this is considered a Ford 'Service Replacement' Carburetor, meaning it was never offered already installed from the factory, but rather it is the carburetor you might have received if for example you had trouble with an original Autolite 1100 and you called ford in the late 60's early 70's and wanted to order a new carburetor (this is what they would have shipped you). You'll find some folks swear by them like '64 200 ranchero' and some folks swear at them (don't like them). The pic on Pony Carburetors' site that oldgrezmonke pointed you to is correct (5th or 6th pic down, titled "Holley 1940"). Good luck
Hi 1966_I6.Welcome aboard.Enjoy.Don`t worry about your English.It will improve with pratice.You`re doing fine.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
:
In 1966 ou in USA , the octane gas does not to be the same
I'm not a mechanic, some 1 w/more knowledge should B along shortly, but...
Lots a changes in 40 yrs - that 1 should B OK due to petrol just flowin thru. MY concern is that I remember when they took the (lubricating) lead outta the gas for pollution reduction. Some say 'new' (to this swamp geezer) "gas that's tough on valves", have put in hardened valves (or add lead to the tank w/each fill up).
Now w/the increased alcohol in gas - to add Stabl to save the gaskets n stuff that can be eroded. I just keep truckin on (w/this rig I had 28 yrs). I guess I'll find out in nother 28 yrs...
Timing may hafta change 4 the octane rise? Does she run? Does it "ping" under hard acceleration or @ all? (our slang - ping - is improper detonation of the petrol in the combustion chamber U can hear).
Keep talkin w/us
I'm not a mechanic, some 1 w/more knowledge should B along shortly, but...
Lots a changes in 40 yrs - that 1 should B OK due to petrol just flowin thru. MY concern is that I remember when they took the (lubricating) lead outta the gas for pollution reduction. Some say 'new' (to this swamp geezer) "gas that's tough on valves", have put in hardened valves (or add lead to the tank w/each fill up).
Now w/the increased alcohol in gas - to add Stabl to save the gaskets n stuff that can be eroded. I just keep truckin on (w/this rig I had 28 yrs). I guess I'll find out in nother 28 yrs...
Timing may hafta change 4 the octane rise? Does she run? Does it "ping" under hard acceleration or @ all? (our slang - ping - is improper detonation of the petrol in the combustion chamber U can hear).
Keep talkin w/us
Howdy Fred and All:
Q- "Do I make changes on the carb for 95 octane gas ?"
A- No. But, take note of the performance of your engine, as well as the initial advance setting of the distributor. It is a good idea, for performance and economy, to use as much initial advance as your engine can safely use, without pinging or knocking, when lugging the engine. Does your car have a manual transmission or an automatic? The initial advance setting are different for each. Depending on your elevation and climate, you should be able to use up to an additional 5 degrees of initial advance. The extra advance will give your engine a noticeable increase in both mileage and power.
Does your engine have a stock 1966 Load-O-Matic distributor?
And welcome to THE FORUM.
Adios, David
Q- "Do I make changes on the carb for 95 octane gas ?"
A- No. But, take note of the performance of your engine, as well as the initial advance setting of the distributor. It is a good idea, for performance and economy, to use as much initial advance as your engine can safely use, without pinging or knocking, when lugging the engine. Does your car have a manual transmission or an automatic? The initial advance setting are different for each. Depending on your elevation and climate, you should be able to use up to an additional 5 degrees of initial advance. The extra advance will give your engine a noticeable increase in both mileage and power.
Does your engine have a stock 1966 Load-O-Matic distributor?
And welcome to THE FORUM.
Adios, David
oldgrezmonke
Well-known member
There are two common methods to determine gasoline octane - the Research Method and the Motor Method . The Research Method yields higher numbers than the Motor Method and was the number shown on the pumps and in the manuals in the US until sometime in the 1970's when the standard was changed to an average of the two numbers . In the USA before that change the octane number shown on the pump for regular grade gasoline would be about 92 . The equivalent number after is about 87 . I did a bit of a search and it appears most of Europe , including France , is using the Research numbers so that 95 octane you are using should be O.K. . The "seat of the pants method" says if the engine does not knock/ping [preignition] or "run-on" when switched off ; there is no need for a higher octane rating .
