Need Help with Dyno Results-66 Mustang

[mraley]

Just had my car Dyno'd. They were able only to check the Horsepower. The torque gizmo they use was down.....

Does anyone know what these cars were doing in relation to HP at the wheels stock?

Check this link out and let me know what you think!!!



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/ ... ngDyno.jpg


Basically at 4100 RPMs I had 94.6 max HP at 73 miles per hour and at 94 miles per hour at 4000 RPMs.....

 

[Anonymous]

I think Mustangaroo had some stock numbers on his website.

The hiccups and dips in the powerband are weird.
Is that gear shifting? I noiticed there's no RPM data listed.

--mikey

 

[mraley]

Yes, It's gear shifting....2nd to 3rd was about 4100

 

[Mustangaroo]

I have heard that a truly stock 200 engine will dyno at the rear wheels about 55-65 HP, my Stock 200 with a stock Aussie 2V head and intake, 2V Holley with headers dynoed at 105 HP to the rear wheels. This is with stock cam, pistons, etc.........

94.6 Hp is very good for the work you have done. Remember all dyno's vary in reading HP, you could take your car and dyno it the same day elsewhere and get higher or lower results, they are really just a tool for tuning your engine to perform it's best, what was your Air Fuel Ratio?

 

[mraley]

Mustangaroo....I've got to check with my mechanic. I can tell you that my primary is 59" and the air bleed is also 59". The Secondary is 63" with a an air bleed of 76". Is that what your asking???????

 

[65coupei6]

With your specs. that chart is pretty accurate. You probably have maybe 10hp more somewhere. Tuning the carb and adjusting timing might get your there. Here is a link to my original chart.

http://65coupei6.mustangindex.com/dyno.html

With the Aussie head & mods I got to 137hp.

 

[Anonymous]

mraley, what mods have been done to the engin ???

 

[wsa111]

Mraley, my 67 200 put out 85 hp to the rear wheels, with a 67 engine,with 67 head,professional valve job with valves back cut. With a stock exhaust manifold with 2" exhaust pipe, a 194 crane cam @.050 & a 215cfm pony 1100 carb with the stock air cleaner on. I do have an electric fan, so the mechanical fan did not hinder the output. I feel great with my output considering the mild setup i have. My distributor is a 68 stock distributor with a pertronix I. The distributor has been modified with a custom tailored advance curve. Do some fine tuning & you may find some more power. Good luck. William

 

[Mustangaroo]

Mustangaroo....I've got to check with my mechanic. I can tell you that my primary is 59" and the air bleed is also 59". The Secondary is 63" with a an air bleed of 76". Is that what your asking???????

No I was asking what your air fuel ratio is? 15:1 ratio would be for better mpg, 12:1 for more HP less mpg, for the most HP you will want to have very close to 12:1 air fuel ratio at WOT as you can get, for your best performance. Now if you want performance but are willing to give up that extra 5-10 HP for better mpg you would run around 15:1 air fuel ratio, you do change the jets to change the ratio but depending on how your engine is bulit and it's cfm demands different jets sizes will chnage the ratio.
The main reason to dyno your car is to "tune it" as each dyno will give you a different reading as to your power output.

 

[mraley]

Mustangaroo.....

I found out that I didn't have any way to measure the Air/Fuel Mixture. The place that Dyno'd only did the HP.

As far as the noise it's coming from the top side of the engine. When you remove the number five plug wire it stops. I think for now I'm going to a heavier oil and limp towards winter. I still have two car shows that I really want to be in, then I can send it to the shop and tear it down properly.

There is one other issue that my mechanic has been concerned about since day one. I've got too much blow back from the the PVC and Dipstick, which could be several things. I guess time will tell. Thanks for your imput....Michael

 

[wsa111]

Mraley, sorry to hear you have engine noise after the dyno run. I had the same thing happen after i dynoed mine. I would run a compresson test? Is your oil pressure ok. I think we both have a wrist pin problem or a cracked piston, i can advance the timing at idle & you can hear the knock from the top of the engine & its worse cold. I plan to tear mine down in a few weeks to install a camshaft up grade, its a fspp 264 shaft & a 80 cylinder head with a modified log for a 2300 holley.
I hope i can just replace the pistons & have no cylinder wall damage, lets wish us both luck. William

 

[mraley]

wsa111

What you described is exactly what mine in doing too. My mechanic mentioned a wrist pin yesterday too. If my oil gauge is right my pressure has dropped in the past two weeks. It used to ride in the middle,now it's still in the normal range but on the low side.

I'm going to change the oil tomorrow and go with a 20/50 and see if it helps.....Are you having any blow back from you pcv or dipstick? I am!

When we had the head off last month, the cylinder walls looked great. No wear at all. This sound has been around for a while. We didn't worry about it since it was so faint and only appeared once in a while. It's only recently that it has gotten worse. The last compression test came back very good with less than a 5% difference between the cylinders. I think they all came back at 160-165. I haven't checked it again since last month.

 

[wsa111]

Mraley, i am getting no crankcase blowby or any oil smoke., but my oil pressure is still perfect at idle & at higher engine speeds.
Sounds like you have a cracked piston or possible ring land damage & rod bearing problem with the lower oil pressure..If you want to save your block you might want to tear it down right now. If you don't mind boring to a larger oversize piston or regrinding more from your crankshaft just drive it to the shows & then park it. Just don't want to see you do further engine damage. Keep us informed. William