Need Some Carb Help

[66Fairlane]

Hello Everyone
I have a 1966 ford fairlane with the 200 straight 6. I mounted a ford 2100 carburetor on the motor. But now i have a problem. The car starts fine but upon throttling it up it gets too much air. If I block like 3/4 of the carb off with my hand the car will run perfect. What could be the prob? If anyone could help maybe with screw adjustments etc. I put a new distributor, fuel pump, fuel filter, carb, etc in the car. SO if anyone can give a little advice im all ears.

 

[steelcurtain13]

Has the carb been rebuilt? Check the carb gasket...easy trick spray carb cleaner on gasket and if the idle increases you have a leak.

 

[mugsy]

Sounds like the carb is running lean... by putting your hand over it, that functions like a choke plate, which causes a higher vacuum in the body of the carb and pulls more fuel thru whatever port/orifice is flowing. You'll need to open up the idle mixture and see if that helps.

Good Luck,
Mugsy 8)

 

[MPGmustang]

timing "could" be retarded too, try advancing the distributor

for timing try to get the highest idle possible by rotating it back and forth, then adjust your idle mixture screw for a higher RPM then the timing agian, then adjust your idle rpm screw and you should be in the ball park. take it for a drive and if it pings decrease timing 2* and bump your idle rpm screw to compensate, do this until it no longer pings and let us know if you have any troubles along the way.

also on the lean side of things, make sure you don't have a vacuum leak by checking your lines and fittings.
check your fluids, water/oil/tranny/PS as too little can affect running/load quality.

one last thing, these older engines/cars are meant to be tinkered with constantly.

Good Luck! and welcome to the forum

 

[66Fairlane]

Well i had the car running for about 30-45 minutes, Put a new Radiator in today and wanted to circulate fresh new anti-freeze through the motor. I sprayed carb and choke cleaner around all gaskets from the manifold to the adapter to the carb and no rev or other hesitations from the carb cleaner. I have not played with the distributor yet that was my next step. If I ease on the throttle it will run fine, but if u hit the throttle it sounds like its getting too much air. I close the choke just about all the way, about maybe 1/8 - 1/4 inch open it will run perfect, have not let it idle at that as it will prob flood out. On the ford Autolite 2100 there is the one vacuum line that goes to the distributor which im going to use to do a vacuum test and see if it stays steady at an idle or if it drops and loses vacuum. Worse comes to worse it is going to be the manifold. Im hoping its not the manifold. If anyone has anymore great advice as you all been giving me im up to try anything. The orginal carb i have is shot, and bought this new carb and want to put it to use lol.

 

[66Fairlane]

Okay so i did some more digging and testing, i find that the accelerator pump on a brand new carb is very tight, not pushing in when i press the throttle. Anyone know how to fix a accelerator pump from being so stiff?

 

[ludwig]

Didn't you get a new one in the rebuild kit? IFAIK, it's a little post thingy with a spring inside and a nozzle cap that looks and works a good deal like a ballpoint pen retractor.

 

[CZLN6]

Howdy Fairlane:

What size is the 2100 you've installed? Once you've eliminated vacuum leaks, check the verify a stong accelerator pump squirt, then set the initial timing. Is it a manual or auto trans? Try using 12 degrees BTC. Be sure to verify that the timing mark is accurate. What distributor are you using? Keep us posted.

Adios, David

 

[66Fairlane]

Hello
Im using a re-manufactured distributor, points distributor. The carb was fully done by a carb company in OR. Its a three in the tree manual transmission. I drained the gas out of the carb last night. and the accelerator pump works perfect. but once the bowl gets full of gas the pump is very hard to push in. So I dont know if something is messed up in the carb, or if i should send it back and wait another 2 weeks for them to fix it. Or if i should take it apart and do it myself. Does anyone have a good manual for rebuilding carbs? i have done alot of small engine carbs for atv's dirtbikes and a few reg motorcycle carbs. I just dont understand why the accelerator pump will be so hard to push in, when u throttle up the gas the pump barly even pushes in. u have to push the accelerator pump in with the throttle and then it runs good. If someone can give me some details as what to look for and how to do it will be grateful. Thank you everyone for helping me on this.

 

[66Fairlane]

AUTOLITE 2100 1.02 C3TF-H CARBURETOR is the size of the carb. C3TF-H 1.02 Venturi #48f Jets
1.02=245 CFM. Im running a small electric fuel pump. 1.5 - 4 psi, if u think its too much please also let me know.

 

[JackFish]

Okay so i did some more digging and testing, i find that the accelerator pump on a brand new carb is very tight, not pushing in when i press the throttle. Anyone know how to fix a accelerator pump from being so stiff?

Some lube?

 

[66Fairlane]

lube didn't improve anything. So im still at a lost, might have to mail the carb back to OR to have it looked at and fixed.

 

[66Fairlane]

So i sent the carb out to get fixed, i should have it back by next week, I rebuilt the single barrel and put that back on for time being, Its still sucks too much air and does not rev right with choke fully open it has a dead spot then revs up it i punch the throttle, I wanted to know can the water block under the carb can get a crack into it with out water leaking in the block to suck air?

 

[bubba22349]

I wanted to know can the water block under the carb can get a crack into it with out water leaking in the block to suck air?

Probably not though check it closely! If it’s still together spray some carb cleaner around the gasket area surfaces to check for leaks, RPM will change! If it’s all ready off check to see if it’s flat on gasket surfaces with a straight edge. Are the gaskets old? Some common causes are old gaskets (dried up) will not seal, gasket is wrong shape and can't seal all passages between spacer block base and manifold or carb to spacer block, loose mounting bolts

 

[AzCoupe]

Im using a re-manufactured distributor, points distributor.

If it's a stock "Load-O-Matic" distributor, that's part of your problem.
Read this.... http://classicinlines.com/Loadomatic.asp