Need To Shave .29 off my Qtr Mile Time!

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Any ideas?

Going racing again the next Friday and the following Friday.

Already did the following since I ran a 15.28 a month ago,

Installed Accell 300+ 8.8 mm racing plug wires.
Installed K&N airfilter.
Installed 3 core radiator.
Installed cold air box to my hood scoop,

airbox.jpg


Looking through some old posts and came across this trick from Stubby, so I did it tonite.

I have seen cars with poorly fitting hoods. You know how the hinges don't quite close all the way down in the back? It's called poorman's cowl induction

Going to TRY to switch to the older model larger diameter single pulley water pump & underdrive alternator pulley if everything lines up. Kind of a half assed underdrive setup! :wink:

Car gets a front end alignment Tuesday because I've removed enough weight off the front in the last yeasr that the front tires look pigeon toed and that cant be helping out anything...

All excess weight is removed, front tires are aired to 40 psi and I'm running 27 psi in the rears.

Front sway bar is gone too.

Any other ideas??

Bill suggested open headers but I cant do that right now. Cant weld collectors on the pipes because they are too close together.

It needs to be jetted fatter, but I'm not going to do that untill I'm at the track.

Being I'm rpm'ing it more than I used too its spitting oil out the front breather. I'm going to replace the closed front rocker arm stand with one that has the oil bleedoff hole in it because at high rpm I believe the roller rockers are throwing waay to much oil around in the valve cover and hopefully by bleeding off some of the pressure I can get that under control.

Thanks,

Doug
 
Doug, your vehicle looks great.

Cold air box to the oil bypass on the front rocker stand.

I mounted my pcv valve 3" above the valve cover to prevent oil splash to the valve, since the valve cover does not have the baffles that a stock cover has, since then the valve does not show any evidence of oil on the valve. And yes I also use the baffled grommet for the pcv.

If you still use the water alcohol injection add some nitromethane to the mix, but you will have to back off on the timing to prevent detonation.

Put the pedal to the metal & put this stang in the 14's, good luck, Bill

DSC_0039.jpg
 
Get one of those K&N x-Stream or whatever air cleaner tops.

I'm not sure what good the poormans cowl induction would do with the cold air box though.


Also, didn't you have a homemade ram-air thing on your site? Why not run a tube up to the cold air box to draw in from both the scoop and the air dam area.
 
man, i can belive you got that thing going that fast ,that awsome,the fastest i could get one of those thing was 16.1 back in the late 80si thought that was good,years later i ended up throwing it away.
here are some ideas that i have seen

I have seen my friends car go from 10.10 to 9.98 from installing on of those k&n stubstacks,I dont know if they make them for 2bbl carbs,but I do think the more power your engine makes the more effective it is ,how much differance it will make on your engine-I dont know ,also-

check your front end toe,maybe some skinnery tires

fans rob alot of power,maybe get a clutch fan or remove it and run it without a fan

maybe you can remove some weight from some where,front seat,spare tire,jack,ect.....

synthetic lubes can also help

play with plug gaps sounds like you got a good ignition-maybe .050 or so

longer cool downs between runs and run on cool nights,on my m3 I went from 14.34 to 14.02 from not doing a thing except cool downs and waiting for later a night when it cooled off

the only thing I play with at the track is timing,i dont know if you found your sweet spot on your timing yet,but slowly playing with timing can net some results also.when you adjust the timing do it on the same day and be sure the engine heat soak is about the same ,i always just feel the intake and go off that i dont realy go off the temp gauge.and watch your mph when your making adjustment to timing .i will go 2deg. at a time,I am just telling you what i do, and my experences from what works for me.and good luck i hope you kick ass at the track
 
8) if you have them install a set of drag shocks in the front, if not pull the front shocks for the trip down the track. just put them back before you leave.
 
those K&N X-Treme tops are pretty expensive i just say take the aitcleaner off for the runs

and leave the back seat at home thatll definently get rid of some weight
 
Well...I'll try to answer all these question! :D

60' time is a 2.22
I'm only running a electric fan...I could shut it off when I pre stage and run without it? Its on a on/off switch, no thermostat.

I have rear seat delete, no floor mats, no trunk mat no nothing that cant allready be removed...That includes heater box and all related stuff and all interior insulation.

90/10 dragshocks in the front.

I'll check into the K&N stubstack. Being I'm getting a 4 Bbl in a couple of months I'll wait untill then.

Stubby pointed out that it looks like the foam is right up against the air filter but thtas only the camera angle. I cut the foam out arond the filter where its tight so I have a minimum of 1.25" clearance all the way around the filter.

Allready have skinny tires on the front. Front end alignment is scheduled for tuesday.

I still have the water/alcohol injection but I need a new sprayer/mister end for it, so its not hooked up right now.

Thanks!!

Doug
 
Mustang_Geezer":2wmdgj2p said:
...
I'm only running a electric fan...I could shut it off when I pre stage and run without it? Its on a on/off switch, no thermostat....

If you disable the alternator and run with battery only the fan running won't hurt a thing, maybe it would even help. Sorta like a mini-propeller? At any rate it is the alternator that causes the drag.
Joe
 
Doug,
I write my own computer programs to do the dyno/1320 thing.
They are pretty good but new to the Ford Six but I'll give it a shot anyway

I dialed in what I know about your car and engine, and with the new alum head I got
Torq 204 at 4400
Power 219 at 6300
(in a poor state of tune, more later.....)
In the car that gave
15.26 at 88.1
That was your "cool evening" run with air cleaner off.
ok pretty close, I did tune traction to match your 60ft.

With the air cleaner and your cold air box:
15.21 at 88.4
Add a K&N lid for more flow:
15.18 at 88.6
Somehow get traction so the car hooks:
15.11 at 88.7

But a I said I really had to de-tune your engine in my computer to "slow it down" to match your 1320 times. I dont usually have to do that.
As I said my computer is new to the little six, but it says try some tuning -
Timing curve?
Fuel Pressure?
Jets?
Different Carb? (Hey, some carbs are just ornery or haunted even...)

When I let your engine be tuned to its best, as I normally do - I compute
Torq 227 at 4300
Power 235 at 6200
and
14.52 at 92.0
All that gain is from "tuning" and it's most of the game.
Other than the hints already offered I'd say try some other carbs, another 500 or even a good running 350, anything different - see what it does. Try a fuel press gage down the track, recheck the timing curve and TDC, what about the cam timing (I assumed 2-advanced for lobe centers of 108in and 112ex but did you degree this in etc)

Hard to believe it should be stronger but tuning should get it into the 14s easy -
Good luck anxious to see the results! :)
 
Doug I did one more run, uncorked the headers for
14.36 at 93.2 :evil:
so that was .16 sec gain with open headers, assuming you're jetted accordingly -
 
Okay,

I have another topic going about the field switch for the alternator....Mixed opinions but its easy enough to install 10' of wire to a on off switch so I'll try it out. :D

US 131 dragway has electricity in all of thier pits so I can take along my little battery charger just in case....

Werby,

Heres all the time slips so you can compare them with your program,

60' 2.29 1/8 mile 10.01 @ 70.40 1/4 mile 15.67 @ 85.71
60' 2.53 1/8 mile 10.11 @ 71.98 1/4 mile 15.6 @ 88.60
60' 2.23 1/8 mile 9.91 @ 70.78 1/4 mile 15.54 @ 86.20
60' 2.26 1/8 mile 9.89 @ 70.98 1/4 mile 15.51 @ 86.22
60' 2.22 1/8 mile 9.91 @ 70.09 1/4 mile 15.57 @ 85.89
60' 2.40 1/8 mile 9.92 @ 72.71 1/4 mile 15.38 @ 89.93
60' 2.22 1/8 mile 9.78 @ 71.88 1/4 mile 15.33 @ 87.43
60' 2.26 1/8 mile 9.83 @ 72.10 1/4 mile 15.32 @ 88.77
60' 2.34 1/8 mile 9.85 @ 72.37 1/4 mile 15.31 @ 89.13
60' 2.22 1/8 mile 9.79 @ 72.16 1/4 mile 15.28 @ 88.93

As I said my computer is new to the little six, but it says try some tuning -
Timing curve?
Fuel Pressure?
Jets?
Different Carb? (Hey, some carbs are just ornery or haunted even...)

Timing curve? All I know is its 40 degrees @ 2800 rpms. Its still set for the log head and thats what it ran the best at according to my other set of time slips.

Fuel pressure is regulated @ 5.5 lbs with a electric & manuel fuel pumps.

Carb is a 500 cfm Holley 2 Bbl with a 6.5 power valve and #72 jets. As soon as Mike gets the 4 Bbl intake to me I'm switching to a Holley 600 cfm 4 Bbl with K&N stubstack.

No way the water pump pulleys are going to interchange, so I'm not messing with any of that.

Heres what I've done so far,

Installed Accell 300+ 8.8 mm racing plug wires.
Installed K&N airfilter.
Installed 3 core radiator.
Installed cold air box to my hood scoop,
Poormans cowl induction
Swapped rocker arm stands.

Things to do,

Front end alignment
Install alternator field on/off switch.
grease front wheel bearings.

I have adjustable shackles in the rear and I thought about setting the right shackle one notch higher than the left so it'll preload the suspension and make the right rear tire plant harder.....

Gonna put the car on jack stands right now and check out the exhaust system...gotta be a way to make it come off easily and without a sawzall! :twisted: :twisted:

Thanks,

Doug
 
back years ago , we would set the front tire alignment with the car slightly raised like it would be on the track accelerating.
 
We have a local guy that races a 351 powered Ranger. I aligned his Ranger & he picked up 3 tenths. He was VERY happy!
I sat the toe in to 1/32" in, with the front slightly raised.....
 
have you thought about some caltrac bars maybe? sticky tires? seems like you could shave ALOT off those 60' times. line lock? two step to stage it more consistantly?
 
Doug, I am going to be frank with you. Your 60' time is horrible :)

If you get that 60' down to 2.00, you will pick up .5 or more in ET.

I think honda accord wagon could yank a better 60' than that - how are you launching ?

What sort of tires do you have ?
 
Stubby":6w3064h6 said:
Well Doug??? How did it go?

Not going until July the 6th then I'm going back to the 13th. :D :D :D

Thought about getting some cal-tracs this winter but for right now I'm using the shelby traction bars I made several years back.

Ian,

Tires are cooper cobra 215 60 15 and I'm launching @ 2000-2500 rpms. Anything higher than that and it boils the right rear tire. I need to get a new/rebuilt trac loc or limited slip being my rearend is giving me some traction problems when I launch @ 3500 :) :) :)

Later,

Doug
 
So you have a open diff with (no offense) crappy tires?

I think you need to focus on that. Usually, I make fun of people for spending all sorts of money getting a slow car to "hook" as if that is their problem.

However, it apparently is your problem. You have a re-worked converter don't you? What's its stall speed ?

How are you launching... stall it up to 2500 then dig in on greenlight, or are you letting it roll out a little before you dig ?

If you spend a little $$ on your launch, you will drop that car deep into the 14's guaranteed.

If you really go for it, you could see 13's. There's no reason that your car shouldn't be able to cut 1.8/1.9's with the right setup.
 
have you thought of the cheap way doug.....mini spool a second third member?

Def some slicks might be in order. I would wait on the caltracs if you already have shelby bars (do about the same thing) some sticky tires and hooking up both sides should help ALOT.
 
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