New Engine Build

Doug, the Lucas additive is a good choice. I would get a case of Brad-Penn 10W-30 racing oil.

It contains a synthetic blend & also additives for street driving. That along with the Lucas will be fine for breakin.

After breakin no additive will be needed cause the Brad-Penn has the high levels of zinc & phosphorus.

I would bet you will need valve springs, but you may have purchased the top line from Mike originally.

Just don't blow the old engine & take out the head or pan. Rock & roll, Bill
 
I dont know about up north but in Indianapolis (OK technically Wanamaker) Indy Cylinder Head Service stocks Brad Penn motor oil. Only walk in place I have seen it so far.
 
On your old engine, I notice the electric water pump drive. Looks like the 14 tooth drive pulley. How does the pump drive work for cooling for you?

I just installed Moroso electric drive on my Falcon. I have Not been out to the track yet. I left the thermostat in, there is a hole drilled in the stat to allow water to by-pass a little as the engine comes to temp and the stat opens up
 
I've read in some forums that V-8 engine with same drive system on water pump comment on the engine operating near t-stat temp or a little above... like a 180 t-stat and the engine runs at 185 - 190*F
 
Thanks guys! :D

Tony,

It didnt work bad...

I left the thermostat in it and it didnt move enough water IMO and it would run 200 degrees @ 60 mph. Worked great at the races though! This year I'm cutting out the center and removing the movable portion so it will get more flow but am going to leave the outside portion intact so it will still act as a restriction up to a point.

I got the overdrive pulley on it also.

It would allow me to run 160 degrees time after time bracket racing it.

Later,

Doug
 
Some new pics! :D

Installed the crank last weekend.

9-25-11112.jpg


Pistons and rings installed.

9-25-11113.jpg


Installing the pistons.

9-25-11115.jpg


All done!

9-25-11116.jpg


Next is to install the Schneider cam and the oil pump. My machinist degreed the cam and marked the double roller timing chain and gear set so I know exactly where to install it. I found a limited supply of cam retainer plates so I have a new one of them to finally install and Bill sent me a new cam button.

Anyone know the part number for the washer/spacer that goes on the cam behind the button?

New flex plate came in along with the oil pump drive shaft.

The engine build itself will be on hold for a few weeks being I have to pull the old motor middle of next month then I am planning on pulling the dog house completely off so I can repaint my engine compartment. I'll post a topic on that in the body shop forum when I'm ready to start that.

Later,

Doug
 
Got the old engine out last weekend and have been cleaning and painting parts all this weekend! :D

HPIM1853.jpg


Tearing the old engine apart right now scavenging parts off it for the new engine.

Later,

Doug
 
Do I see 4 lug wheels in that picture of your car? If so, where did younger those rims? Look outstanding and need to replace my wheels...thanks,
 
JoeM1965":2ulzaesp said:
Do I see 4 lug wheels in that picture of your car? If so, where did younger those rims? Look outstanding and need to replace my wheels...thanks,
Click to expand...

Thanks,

They are Weld 4 lug draglites and I ordered them from Summit racing 5 or 6 years ago.

Later,
 
Doug, engine looks great as well as the engine compartment.
I hope your testing times are better than last year, which were also super.
Bolt in a 4.62 rear gear & that thing will really rock.
Again best of luck tomorrow at the track. Bill
 
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