New single outlet header

[Anonymous]

I may need to order a header sooner than planned. I have not been able to get my exhaust pipe to seal on the manifold on the 200 I just put in my falcon. Either the manifold is a tad bit differant, or the pipe was under a bit strain from a slight change in drivetrain position after I went to a differant type of trans mount, and can't manually position it where it needs to be to seal properly.

Anyhow, I'd rather not pay for a new head pipe twice, so I may just as well get a new header now. My choices seem to be limited to Clifford, though. The FSPP Single Outlet Header appears to be out of stock (who makes that product, anyhow?), and it appears that Pacemaker only makes a dual outlet header. I don't want a dual header with a 2-1 pipe as some have suggested. I can't e-mail FSPP from the public computer as they only have a link, not an e-mail address listed. Any suggestions?

Sedanman

 

[Anonymous]

pacemaker sells a single outlet header...i can get u the part number in a few days if u want, but i priced one out and its only gonna cost me about 300 bucks canadian. At least the guy told me that it was single and i would be very happy if i could get a dual for that cheap

 

[gtm1086]

Well I can tell you from experience that the Pacemaker has been a good header for me. I went with the Jet coating and I went with the 2 into 1 adapter. It has been on for close to 2 years with out a single issue. If I may ask what is the issue you have with using the 2 into one adapter?

Mike at FSPP has done a great job putting together a get selection of parts. It wasn't that long ago when the only choice you had was Clifford. At least with Mike if he tells you it is out of stock it is. I can't say that for Clifford

 

[addo]

The Australian headers are far far superior for starter clearance. This is something you should heed for the future. As for a minor exhaust leak - well, that portion of the system is going to be replaced. A little blowby and resultant erosion won't hurt.

Still, if the leak bugs you get a new metal sealing gasket (doughnut) and use a product like POR "Fireseal" or other exhaust manifold putty as you assemble. Don't forget lock tabs on the nuts, and allow a relax time between initial tightening and final locking off. Maybe even idle the car 30 minutes, allow to cool, retorque and lock.

If you want headers, you can place an order and wait until they arrive, "limping" on this repair. Should see you through fine.

Headers are not a bad thing but if you have irregularities between the exhaust port faces and the header (so common) then the head will have to come off for milling. You also need locking bolts to secure the header to the head. No exceptions!

Final thought on headers is they alone are not much of a performance hop-up. You'll hardly notice them. I am warning you now, so you don't later feel you've been fleeced. They do work, and you will possibly gain some economy but don't be unrealistic in what they achieve. The standard cam is ground to allow for the restrictive exhaust...

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the tips, guys. My car is very low, and things tight underneath where the pipe wraps around the transmission (almost hits my aftermarket trans mount), so I'd pefer not to have a long tube header or two pipes in that spot. I did put a new doughnut on it, but the pipe position has changed I think. The leak is getting worse by the day- louder, and fumes coming into the car

Placid Warrior,

Yeah, if you have a part # that would be great. Does anyone else besides FSPP carry this item? Does anyone have a direct e-mail addy for FSPP since the link on the webpage won't work on the public computer?

Addo,

My original plan was to build a 200 with a cam and some head work, but due to finances and accidentally falling upon this low mileage rebuilt 200, that will now be way down the road. I decided not to mess with puting a cam in it due to time constraints as well as a lack of self confidence in doing that sort of thing- it's not a good time for me to take chances. I barely got the engine swap itself done due to some minor part differances between the 170 and 200, and this is my only car now.

I thought I'd go with the aftermarket rocker assembly with the differant ratio since I'm not doing the cam, but they're a bit pricey for me. So if I am going to stay with a stock cam, and either a stock 1bbl or possibly a 1bbl from a 250, am I wasting my money on a header? besides the possible increase in performance/mileage, you can't ignore the cool factor of the header 8) I've spent so much on lowering the car for looks (as well as handling), like to jazz it up under the hood a bit as well. Right now the character of the whole car is basically stock, esp. with the steel wheels - not really my desire.

Sedanman

 

[Falcon62]

So if I am going to stay with a stock cam, and either a stock 1bbl or possibly a 1bbl from a 250, am I wasting my money on a header?

All things considered, IMO, there are other areas where you'll get more bang for your buck than a header. Upgrade the ignition, improve carburetion, optimize tune-up, etc. I agree with Addo, on a basically stock 200, the header would provide virtually no performance gain and essentially be for the cool factor. Nothing wrong with that, but when money's tight, there are better ways to spend the $$$. 8)

Your next best option would be to scrounge up a "stealth" exhaust manifold ala Schjeldahl. If the exhaust manifold on your new 200 doesn't have a 2" outlet, search for a late model 200/250 that does and swap manifolds. Best results would be obtained by using 2" to 2 1/4" (single outlet only) and a free flowing muffler.

Just my $.02.

 

[godheadcustoms]

Not sure if this will help or not, but my car sits pretty low, lower than it looks in the pic, and I'm running a set of old dual out cliffy headers with no ground clearence problems. When I made my tranny crossmember, I just made sure that it hung lower than the exhaust by .25-.50" so if I grind it's not on the exhaust or crossover tube. The only mod the muffler shop made was to slightly shorten the collectors to start the exhaust bend a little higher up for better clearence. So far I rarely grind, only going into really steep driveways...

 

[AzCoupe]

Sorry I didn't reply sooner, been really busy since we got home from SEMA and haven't had time to read all the post until tonight. My e-mail addy is GT200@cableaz.com.

I'll have to look, but I may still have one single out header left. It was shipped out and returned because of fitment issues on a Jag. It' was a little banged up, but not bad. Just a few minor scratches on the coating. I just don't remember if I sold it, or if it sitting in the shop in the return box. If I still have it, I'll give you a break on the price.

 

[Anonymous]

Nice ranchero- you must be on the front bumpstops

Someone mentioned the starter clearance issue, so I'm assuming this is with the clifford header. I've also heard (and seen firsthand) of clearance problems with the idler arm bracket on falcons due to the slightly narrower frame, but this was 2-3 years back. Anyone know if this has been corrected?

What installation issues will I have to deal with- do I need to remove crossmember and center link and that sort of thing? I read in another thread that the port divider is really not worth the trouble so I won't bother with that hassle for now.

Falcon62,

The manifold has the same outlet as my 170, I assume, or the pipe would not have fit. (BTW, the parts store found my water temp sensor by accident)I have 2 in. pipe all the way back except about the 1st foot down from the manifold. I've thought before about your suggestion of the bigger manifold, but with the scarcity of old stuff in yards around here I'd have to get a new one. I'd rather put that money towards a header since I'll eventually want one. One thing I've learned with this project is how much money I've wasted upgrading or replacing the same thing several times.

I do agree with spending money were it is best spent- my suspension is my priority and I am working on an upgrade to a bigger one barrel carb. One of these days I'll get around to re-wiring my igntion switch and re-installing my pertonix. I'm not going to mess with another 2bbl swap until I rebuild the other engine (again, down the road) and can really open up the intake and put a cam in to make all the work worthwhile. If I can't find a single header now, I'll probably just go to Midas and have this system fixed.

 

[Anonymous]

Hey godhead,

Are those intro wheels on your ranchero? What size and backspace, and who has the best deal on them? I'm thinking of getting some Vistas for my car but they are not cheap. I may just have to go this route instead http://69.20.111.53/index.asp?PageActio ... rodID=1084

S-man