New thread for new thought about my engine

[Anonymous]

Some of you have helped tremendiously with suggestions for my "won't start" engine problem. Well, it still won't crank over.

I got to thinking this morning about the problem and the only thing left unchecked is the condition of the block internally.

I have checked and replaced all of the ignition components over the past two months. So I have eliminated that as a possibility. I even had a shop look over my wiring. Now, I'm thinking there is something wrong with the internal components.

I know this sounds crazy but I think I locked up my motor. Over heated it and froze a bearing or rod or something inside.

I say this because last night I noticed that I never supplied coolant after installing my rebuild motor.

It did run back on the 1st of January but abruptly stop running after a couple of minutes. I could never get it to crank after that day.

I hope I'm wrong. This restoration is become a nightmare. I know I should have had someone else rebuild the motor while I did the rest of the car. Any suggestions?



-Chris

 

[BIGREDRASA]

Pull the plugs. Make sure the tranny is in Neutral. Can you turn the engine using the fan or starter? If you can't, you've probably irreparably seized the crankshaft/bearings.

 

[Anonymous]

Yes, I can turn the engine by rotating the fan.


-Chris

 

[Anonymous]

Oh, I also get sparks from the starter relay whenever I try and crank the engine over using the ignition key.


-Chris

 

[Anonymous]

You pulled out the starter, right? I have a few friends that have had the Bendix drive starter break apart on them and seize. If you can turn the motor by hand, it's not seized.

 

[addo]

Another possibility is that there's a short in the ignition that, whenever you try to crank, saps power from the starter circuit...

Disconnect the fuel line into the pump and cap it. Disconnect and tape off (insulate) the wires to the coil and ignition. Now try cranking it. This way, you're guaranteed a "no start" - no nasty surprises!

If you pull the starter as Ryan suggested, what about also trying that alone with jumper leads - it should really buzz over well.

And when this is sorted, rehook the spark before fuel. That way, when you are checking ignition, you're not washing the bores down with excess propellant.

Regards, Adam.

 

[kirkallen143]

Do you have a good ground? I mean from the engine block to the neg. side of the battery (the shorter the better). I had this prob., when the PO grounded from the bat. to the altenator bracket. I switched it directly to the block, and what do you know, it started right up. Also, make sure you have a ground from the block to the frame. Hope this helps, good luck.

Kirk ' 73 bronco

 

[Anonymous]

Well, I think I have a good ground. But...but...but, but...I don't think my starter relay is grounded to the chassis....now that I think about it. I have it mounted to a custom wooden panel which is glued to the engine compartment wall (wanted to be different ). I bet that is not grounded at all! It has to be grounded, right?


-Chris

 

[Anonymous]

I think you are right. The solenoid would need a ground in order for it to function. Sounds like you could have a simple fix.

 

[gtm1086]

:roll: Needs to be grounded. If you want to leave it on your custom wood block just run a ground wire from the solenoid to the engine block. 10 gauge wire should be strong enough.

 

[Anonymous]

Stang;
If your starter solenoid has 3 terminals on it, it has to be grounded. These 3 terminals are: 1 to the battery, one to the starter and the little one goes to the IGN key circuit.
If your starter solenoid has 4 terminals on it, it does not need to be grounded. Instead, one of the little wires goes to ground and the other to the IGN key circuit. The big ones go to the battery and starter.

 

[Anonymous]

Okay guys here's the deal. As of yesterday my Mustang will now crank! I had to replace the starter relay and buy a new battery BUT it will not turn over.

I have checked all of the ignition components and wiring to be sure that I am getting a spark to the engine, I am. At least all the way to the spark plugs.

I had my wife turn the key while I held the plug wires close to the block (one by one) and they all shoot sparks to the block. I even checked my ignition module just like Ford recommends (contacted a Ford dealership for information on DS II).

Sooooo, I'm getting somewhere but not quit there yet.

Oh, one more thing. I am getting fuel and I am no longer backfiring through the carburetor like I had been sometime ago.

Any other suggetions? I'm finally seeing a light at the end of this very long tunnel.


-Chris

 

[Guest]

Chris,
I am not too far away from you, maybe if you want sometime we can get together and try to figure it out. I am not a certified mechanic, but give me a shade tree and look out! PM me if interested.

 

[Anonymous]

Okay guys here's the deal. As of yesterday my Mustang will now crank! I had to replace the starter relay and buy a new battery BUT it will not turn over.
I have checked all of the ignition components and wiring to be sure that I am getting a spark to the engine, I am. At least all the way to the spark plugs.
I had my wife turn the key while I held the plug wires close to the block (one by one) and they all shoot sparks to the block. I even checked my ignition module just like Ford recommends (contacted a Ford dealership for information on DS II).
-Chris

Dude that sounds like what my car did. i still dont actually know what the problem was cause i replaced the EGR and the coil at the same time, it was wied, i couldnt get my car to start and when it did it would choke and sputter then die. first i thought it was my timing chain but i checked it out and it was almost perfect. i still got spark but i replaced the coil, and an EGR valve shouldnt prevent it from running but i replaced it anyways. I actually found the problem with the distributer. when i had changed over my carbs, the timing needed to be decreased by like 20 deg., pretty crazy, but i think that was my problem. I dont think this'll help but its a good story anyways.

 

[Anonymous]

Well in the pictures below you can see I'm now getting at least a spark. Whenever I tap the distributor cap I can get my plug wires to spark against the cylinder head. But this doesn't mean that the distributor is still good, righ?

P.S. Sorry for the poor quality, but they are still shoots from a video I took about 45 mins. ago.


-Chris

 

[Does10s]

Timing! Sounds like you're distributor is 180* out. Put #1 cylinder at TDC (on the compression stroke!) and see if the rotor is pointing to #1 sparkplug wire. If not...make it so.

 

[Anonymous]

Man I hope you are right. If so, then I have a natural ability to make the timing 180* out!

You wouldn't believe the number of times I have set the timing on this car.


-Chris

 

[Anonymous]

Mute point, but fan is connected to the water pump right? movable fan doesn not necessarily mean engine can crank?

 

[Guest]

I have found in my past experences that the belt generally will be tight enough to allow the engine to be turned by a fan (a clutchless one). If the belt slips a little you can also push down on the belt to help a little also. JUST MAKE SURE you have the coil wire unhooked for safety reasions.

 

[kirkallen143]

Is your firing order right (no offense, but I got the firing order wrong on a VW bug engine and that is just four cylinders)? When on TDC is rotor under cap lining up on wire going to number 1 plug? You might have fuel, but prime the carb by pouring in a small amount of gas. I'm thinking...if you installed a new cam, are the timing marks lined-up in the correct order on the timing chain? That is all I can think of for now, it ought to start, I command it!

Kirk ' 73 bronco