New Tri-power installed...couple questions

stock63futura

stock63futura

Well-known member
Hello,
So after having my new head and offy set up in my trunk for a month I finally got around to getting on the Futura today.
All went well, took a long time as I am working by myself(my wife helped me lift/place the head.)
I do have a few questions.
1)I no longer have a carb-spacer so not sure what to do with the heater hoses, I ripped out the heater box(under the dash) when I bought the car as it was falling apart. I live in Cali, so I dont really need a heater. Can I just remove all the hoses? If so, what about where the hoses connect to the block?
2)I am trying to figure out the vacuum line situation, should I do what I did with the fuel? With the fuel I ran hoses with T-fittings.

Thanks everyone for all your advice, I would be lost without the help. :)

-Brian
 
:hmmm: As for the heater hoses sure you can get rid of them am also in SoCal area as a Kid I pulled the heaters out too. Quick way is to use a short piece of hose and a bolt but they make a rubber cap that would look cleaner and if the hose fitting will unscrew out they can be replaced with a standard pipe plug cap in brass or iron type. If your fittings are the pressed in type you can remove them and use a small freeze plug to cap it off.

Check out JD's 3x1 setup is one of the cleanest I have ever seen, it may give you some ideas.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=62804&start=0
 
Thanks Bubba,
Yeah I have studied JD's threads religiously, he has a great looking set up.

Any advice on the vacuum line's to/from the three carbs?

-Brian
 
You should really only need to use vacuum lines from one carb the other two could be pluged or capped off with the rubber caps. Good luck :nod:
 
I do have a few questions.
1)I no longer have a carb-spacer so not sure what to do with the heater hoses, I ripped out the heater box(under the dash) when I bought the car as it was falling apart. I live in Cali, so I dont really need a heater. Can I just remove all the hoses? If so, what about where the hoses connect to the block?
2)I am trying to figure out the vacuum line situation, should I do what I did with the fuel? With the fuel I ran hoses with T-fittings.
Click to expand...

with coolant - carb spacer deleted can use heater but doubt that's your intention, I blocked off the heater motor hole in my tri-power setup '61. I found neoprene cap at auto parts store for water pump port and threaded cap for block.


Vacuum is needed dependent on type of distributor, most need simple manifold vacuum from somewhere under the carb, later heads have big port with "splitter". You can split vac signal if you don't share splitter line with PCV line... ( my '61 has vacuum wipers , vac drops @ 5" - when it rains :roll: )



... welcome to the Tr-Power club, members are never able to make club meetings because the'yre in the garage tuning their Tri-Power...

habe fun

Vac PCV, Dizzy, Wipers and capped LOM carb line:
 
Thanks.

I thought I might be able to get away with just using one vacuum line.
Any advice on getting these things tuned properly?

-Brian
 
Brian,

First, make some block plates up to cover the outer holes. Keep those with you at ALL times in the car, along with a 1/2" or whatever size wrench it is for the carb base (can't recall off hand). In a pinch, that way you can always block off the outer carbs inlets and drive the the club meetings. ;) Seriously though...do it. Saved me sitting on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere once or twice.

Same for tuning. Block the outer carbs and get the engine running solid on the center carb. Then put the outers back on. It is hit and miss. But I adjusted the linkages until they all hit WOT at the same time. Block the vacuum ports to the outers. If the outers still have chocks on them, take them off and block any heat tube ports. I'd recommend, if possible, to switch to a manual choke with the tripower set up. It'll make life easier overall, and not just for cold starts.
 
I will def. make some block off plates, as you arent the first to suggest it.
Should I tune all the carbs in the center spot? one at a time?

-Brian
 
yes tune them one at a time, get a carb syncronizer, sync them one at a time then once they are at the same level, sync them all together, thats how im going to do it with my non progressive setup :nod:
 
Block-off plates definitely come in handy. They're also useful for isolating problems to a specific carb. Here's mine installed for my initial start and cam break-in on the new build a week or so ago- can't imagine trying to do that with all three:

P4120244.JPG
 
Could I just use the vacuum gauge I already have to tune the carbs?
Or is a carb sync. necessary? If so, how do they work? :hmmm:

-Brian
 
I just looked up on google. The sync is the process of setting the butterflies in the same position at the same point of acceleration. They had a couple tools. One was a four carb set with four vacuum gauges and hoses. It would seem that you want to set the carbs such that they all pull the same vacuum load at the same point of pedal pressure.
 
Progressive linkage. 3 single barrel webers.
I was thinking of using my old 1940 holley as my primary, but have heard conflicting opinions.

-Brian
 
Progressive is much easier to tune and there are many 3 x 1 setups what use a different carb for the center one it works fine. Ford once built a Maverick showcar (in 1969 or early 70's) that used an Autolite 1101 for center carb and two Holley 1904’s for end carbs. If your 1940 works good now than it should do the job. End carbs don't need chokes so you can remove them or you can block them to stay open. The sync tool won't work for you, use a tach and or vacuum gauge to tune with. Good Luck
 
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