Now why didn't I think of that?

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I'm sure y'all have had the experience of learning of a technique or tool for engine-building, tuning, fabrication, etc., useful yet simple in concept that you smack your forehead and say, "I should have been doing that years ago!"

It has happened to me dismayingly often, although occasionally I get in on one of these wrinkles before it becomes widely-known. One of these was baked-on moly-disulfide coatings for piston skirts (and other things) which I learned about from a Boeing lubrication specialist and started appying to my outboards and other engines in 1967. By about ten years later there was a company, Kal-Gard, selling heat-curable dry-lubes in spraycans. Now you can buy aftermarket automotive pistons already coated.

Another technique I learned early was hot-honing, warming up the block to, we hoped, more closely approximate the shape it would take while running before passing the hone through the bores. Some 2-stroke engines have a bridge in the exhaust port to keep the rings from hanging up, and these bridges get vey hot. Did they bulge into the cylinder?; hard to be sure, so my personal dodge when hot-honing was to get the bridge exra hot with a propane torch before stroking my Sunnen Junior through the cylinder. I didn't hear about anybody else hot-honing until maybe twenty years later when I read that some of the NASCAR teams were doing it. Nowdays they not only hot-hone, but they circulate coolant through the block at the same time to approach running conditions even more closely. We had talked about doing that, all those years ago, but thought it not worth the effort.

But (slapping my head), while I was hot-honing, I never thought of . . . TORQUE PLATES!!! That's an even better technique, and the plates are dead-simple to make for a little 2-stroke. By the time I heard of them (mid-70s?), I'd had enough experience machining to know how flexible metal really is, and as soon as I saw the first photo of a torque plate, I said . . . well, you know.

Even though I did the last of my racing long ago, I like to keep up with the latest ideas, or anyway, the most recent ideas to get into print. One of the better sources I've found is Circle Track magazine, which features tech articles aimed at low-buck do-it-yourself racers with some skills and tech-savvy. Check it out.

I'm getting to the point (!!!), but I'm out of time on this library computer. Drat and blast!! I'll be back in an hour, I hope, for Part Deux. I just hope it isn't old news.
 
To resume, and come to my point, I was going through a couple of old CT issues I'd missed, and came upon one of those ideas that makes immediate sense. In the September, 2003 issue, Pgs 41-47, is an article entitled, "Where Air Goes . . . Or Should." At issue is the possibility that porting for best airflow in a racing cylinder head might not give you the optimum configuration for power. I've always suspected that after all the twists and turns the intake charge takes, what actually enters the cylinder consists of some atomized, suspended fuel, plus a ragged stream of big ugly droplets (more so if the fuel is methanol). Of course, there are some little tricks of surface finishing and shaping that should scour some of the liquid fuel off of the port walls and break it up into a more burnable state. My notion, in my racing days of yore, was to keep the fuel warm between heats, the goal being to introduce warm fuel into cool air. But short of having transparent cylinders, how do you find out what's really going on? Carbon patterns on piston crowns give some clues, but . . . .

Well, the technique is laughably simple! With the cylinder head set up on a running flowbench (based on two shop-vacs, in my case), squirt a shot of machinist's layout dye into the intake side, shut off the flowbench, remove the head, and see where the layout dye fetched up. (Paste sound of head-slap here). Maybe the simplest ideas really are best!

Of course, using this idea effectively takes some effort. One photo in the CT articale shows a guy spraying dye directly at an intake port as the flowbench whuffs away. I wouldn't have much confidence in the results unless the dye had to travel through an intake manifold first . . . at minimum, and I can think of several more steps yet. And there's the small problem of interpreting the dye pattern you end up with! But it's a nifty idea, don't you think?

Now y'all are gonna tell me this is old news . . . sigh!

It's a good article; check it out.
 
That idea has some merit. You really only want to port in the areas where there is a flow problem. Porting areas that don't need it just reduces velocity.
 
mattri, moi no sprechen o escribe frog-talk, wakarimasuka? My English ain't so hot, neither! Whudja say?
 
LOL I was saying "waiting for part two", but there's a typo in there . I tried to edit it out but I spent so long trying to figure out how that you had already added part two by the time my post was sent! Anyway, I thought your idea was tres interessant. Matt.
 
My latest engine build has been hot honed but we not only bolted on torque plates, we also bolted in a dummy crank and torqued the main caps. Hot water was circulated through the block to bring the cast iron up to operational temp, about 210ºF. The block should have been properly stressed by both the head studs and the main studs.
 
addo":20e4bkjt said:
Cool! A perfectionist! What piston and bore setup is going in it?
This build is on a big-buck vee-eight. It is a 400 with one-off Ross pistons, one-off Eagle crank and a set of custom build Oliver rods. BUT, the techniques would be the same for a I6. I'm looking at bringing over an EFI alloy head crossflow in the near future and I'll use the same machining meathods on it as I am on the 400. I'm looking at maybe doing a mild destroke on the 4.1 to bring it down to a true 245ci with a .030 overbore. The rods and pistons will also be custom but hanging off a modified factory crank.....I'm looking for a light weight rotating assembly.

--J
 
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