Oil Pump Clearance / ARP Main Studs

falconcritter

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The new Engine i got seems to not allow the oil pump too seat down or bolt too block . Has anybody had this problem with the ARP Main Stud Kits ? The oil pump has a part number of M65B .
 

chad

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can't help much there but...
My understanding:
* can it be clearance w/a bit of grinding/file? (not deep enuff to compromise a pump)?
* APR is not a standard recommendation there ('rod bolts' is the recommendation);
* if a gasket wuz placed there shimming it out, remove as ford6 fans don't use it...

A lill patients & those more expert will B along for correction/clarity...
 

B RON CO

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Hi, I just looked at the pictures of the engine but you can't see the clearance issue on the #2cap stud. I would either mark the stud a few threads above the nut and put a thread die on to chase the threads and cut it with a cutoff wheel, or use the old main cap bolt instead. Good luck
 

bubba22349

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X3 you could do a combo of the two, by cutting the stud length down some like "B Ron Co" said and also grinding that area of oil pump housing a little bit as Chad said. One other way is to make a simple spacer plate out of steel or aluminum to go under the oil pump to raise it up enough to clear the stud, the oil pump pick up tube will then need to be reset so it the correct height off the floor of the oil pan. The Melling oil pump M-65B is a standard volume and standard pressure pump that's perfect for your new 200 engine. Having an oil pump to block gasket would also raise the pump slightly too though most people don't like to use them any more. Good luck (y) :nod:
 
Just had the same issue, i filed down the stud to where the nut and washer fit with the main installed. Also filed the sid of the pump that touches the pump. It fit just right after awhile, had about a millimeter of clearance between the two.
 

CNC-Dude

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That's common on most all Ford engines using ARP main studs, even most V8's. It is perfectly acceptable to grind or machine the stud shorter to where no threads stick out past the nut when torqued and grind clearance on the pump body. During the 5.0 Mustang craze, all of them had to be done that way and if you used a high volume pump, you had to dimple the oil pan as well because the pump body was fatter and taller. That's just one of the tricks of the trade when using non-stick, high performance parts sometimes. Those mods wont hurt a thing....!
 

chad

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putting a 400 crank in the 350 che**y we ground the block,
it's done all the time ("clearencing')...
to the 'rotating assemble' is less wise ie weight & RPMs...
 
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