PCV causing problem

[Anonymous]

Thanks in advance for reading, I know it is disjointed.

My brother called me day before yesterday to say #6 was not firing so he did a compression check, all were 175 except 6 which was 150. He thought something might be going on with the valves so we pulled the cover and all looked well. Eventually we figured out that when the pcv was disconnected the piston would fire. I have the pcv connected to my OZ manifold as I have seen in pictures. The PCV valve is new. The valve cover is from ebay, the oil cap is the breather type. I am using a 5200 Stovebolt carb.

I thought it might be the loadamatic ignition so we upgraded to the D2 with the GM module. We set the timing to 8 degrees. The engine runs well but the richness adjustment seems to have no effect. There is 16 inchs of vacumn at idle. We checked for voltage to the ignition and it was 9.2 so we tried applying 12 volts, the engine sped up. I will run a wire from the back of the ignition to bypass the resister wire and provide 12 volts.

So anyone have an idea why the pcv would lean out #6 bad enough it won't fire? Or why the compression would be off that much. Remember 6 is where the washer did it's damage.

Tks
don

PS...oh, also the inside of the top of the carb and the aircleaner is coated with black oily smelling stuff, soot? Nothing is visable from the tailpipe. Tommorrow we go to have another transmission installed as the man who built mine has done nothing to fix it in the 6 weeks he had it. I hope that once I get it on the road some of this will clear up. The car has only been drivin 40 miles sice the rebuild, it has idled a good bit.

 

[Anonymous]

Shouldn't the pcv be run to the carb base? I'm wondering if everyone who is running it to the back of the OZ intake is causing a lean condition to that one piston. There must have been an adaptor plate made in OZ to mate a holly to the OZ head. Does it have a pcv inlet and where can I get one.

don

 

[Kstang]

Yeah we were sorta having the same problem we couldnt get my idle down below 1K and so we disconnected every thing and pluged it and checked every thing one at a time. It was found that for some reason the extra air from the PVC valve into the engine was causing it so it wouldn't run smooth and it would die. So we just ran it up into the air cleaner and it seems to have solved the problem. We were thinking with the added air from the PVC valve it was causing it to mess up and die?? All we know is the cause and effect not why?? PVCvalve to carb = bad, pvc valve to air cleaner= good!!

 

[addo]

The PCV was always connected as you described, Don. The Holley adaptor was Cain or Redline and is just the simple plate type; nothing fancy. I've never heard of this being an issue; similar sitings of the "tree" on other I6 motors are common and go unnoticed.

I noted that this was the problem cylinder. Consider a bent pushrod or valve stem, worn cam lobe or damaged lifter. (Dial the lifter top to check with another.)

It could also be an unrelated piston/ring issue. An upside-down ring, or gaps not indexed, or a sticky ring/groove. Did you do wet and dry tests with the motor hot?

Adam.

 

[Anonymous]

I am about to begin hooking my 2v up next weekend... should be running by the following week....? MAYBE?

But I will follow this post... and I plan on hooking up through the tree, but I can also run to the aircleaner....

I think I will still try the tree first... see what happens.


But interesting information... to keep in mind.

 

[Anonymous]

Setback a day on tranny, I'll report back once I've had a chance to put some miles on.

Addo, thanks, the machinist checked, he said, those things, we'll see. Wonder what the correct punctuation for that sentence would be?

Anyway, if I have to go back into the head I want to wait for one of AzCoupe's new cams and use the adjustable lifters off my old 170.

I'm hopeing everything will work out ok once I get it broke in.

One more thing, my brother said the plugs had the same sooty covering that the carb did, is it just too rich?

don