Pics of my new motor during assembly

[BIGREDRASA]

360* out of time eh? Should be perfect then!

I'll have to remember that one.

 

[Patrick66]

To remove lock cyl: Stick paperclip into small hole @ 5 O'clock. Insert key and turn past Acc. Pull out cylinder.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/NewTechIgnition.aspx heres a how to.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

Not mentioned above. You only need to stick the paperclip in about 1/32", just enough to unlock the thin tab. Before reassembly, lubricate lightly, and make sure the spring at the bottom is not cocked. Test operation before reconnecting.

 

[Eric Rose]

I got the switch taken apart. Hopefully we will be able to get it installed easily enough.

We are getting spark now but I'm still not sure the ignition is right. My dad is trying to set the firing order using a manual for a 300 truck six. And he is saying the #1 on my distributor cap is in the worng place. We have tired it both ways and still nothing.

Could it be possibile that we have the spark box and distributor mis-matched? Does it make a difference with the distributor if its for a blue or yellow grommet Duraspark box? We are using a blue grommet box.

Another concern is that since we decked the block and the head we may need shorter pushrods. I think we took .070 of material off, can the hydraulic lifters absorb that much, or will I need the shorter pushrods? I guess a compression test will confirm this, but the fittings on my compression gauge are broken now... D'oh :x

 

[Anonymous]

I got the switch taken apart. Hopefully we will be able to get it installed easily enough.

We are getting spark now but I'm still not sure the ignition is right. My dad is trying to set the firing order using a manual for a 300 truck six. And he is saying the #1 on my distributor cap is in the worng place. We have tired it both ways and still nothing.

Could it be possibile that we have the spark box and distributor mis-matched? Does it make a difference with the distributor if its for a blue or yellow grommet Duraspark box? We are using a blue grommet box.

Another concern is that since we decked the block and the head we may need shorter pushrods. I think we took .070 of material off, can the hydraulic lifters absorb that much, or will I need the shorter pushrods? I guess a compression test will confirm this, but the fittings on my compression gauge are broken now... D'oh :x

Firing order for a small 6 is 153624. Not sure what the 300 is or if its the same.

You wont need shorter pushrods. Mine was milled .080 off the head and .020 off the block and it was just fine.

I did have the adjustable rocker arms though.

Blue grommet box is what I used.

To much stuff to read through but I'm assuming that youre trying to convert to a duraspark?

Heres a link to a wiring diagram that is proven to work.

http://www.mustangsteve.com/conversion.html


Later,

Doug

 

[Eric Rose]

To much stuff to read through but I'm assuming that youre trying to convert to a duraspark?

I had it converted to duraspark but then the cheap-o ignition switch I had in it got stuck in the "on" position and burned something up. When we didn't get spark my dad changed everything up and now I don't know whats going on with it.

It is getting spark now, so maybe its a timing or firing order problem.

Dad also installed a metal timing pointer from the dual pulley setup so I can't see the timing marks.

Most of this project has been me trying to hold my dad back from installing the wrong parts and convince him that I know what I'm talking about. I'm only able to work on the car on the weekends and he works on it through the week when I am not there to supervise.

Just found a working compression gauge, I'm going to go out and take the timing pointer off and put the compression gauge on it and see what I can get it to do.

 

[Eric Rose]

Now the DSII is acting up again. One wire for the coil arcs when I touch them to the coil, no matter how I connect it. Dad ordered the parts for a 300 six. I don't know if they are the same as a 200 or not.

I'm tempted to go back to a points distributor but I don't know where or how to find a dual-advance one. And if I went LoM I'd have to get a LoM carb.

I've also been working on installing to proper ignition switch on the Falcon. Does anyone know where the orange wire (the one that is seperate from the big connector) goes?

This is all very frustrating. :roll:

 

[Eric Rose]

Up top for suggestions.... I've got to get this thing to start tomorrow.

1.) What is the prong on the ignition switch for that is on the outside of the large connector?

2.) Do I need the "pink wire" ballast, or can I use a ceramic bar type resistor?

3.) Are all Duraspark II systems the same? Can I use a DS II box and coil from a 300 six or a Vee Ate?

4.) Can I test a DS II box with a multimeter to see if it's toast or not?

Thanks for all the help... I really need to get this thing running tomorrow and I don't want to have to use a points distributor to do it.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

#1. In my case, it's a conversation piece. It may well be for AC.
#2. If you have the pink one, use it. Otherwise, the ceramic types are a lot easire to access and test.
#3. If the coil has the right internal resistance and is rated for use with a resistor, go for it. I will tell you that I used the GM HEI Module, and hooked it up with and without resistor. It ran, but poorly with the resistor. It runs fine with the full 12 V. (I have the Pertronix Flamethrower Coil.)
#4. Best bet is to take it to a good parts store that has a tester. I'll check tomorrow to see what you can do with a VOM.

 

[Bort62]

It sounds like your dad is doing more harm than good...

Don't tell him I said that

 

[Eric Rose]

It sounds like your dad is doing more harm than good...

Don't tell him I said that

Yeah, thats how I feel sometimes. My dad comes from the days of flatheads and Y blocks and points distributors. If this car had a Y block in it I know he'd have it running by now.

I guess I'm going to take the 3 DSII boxes we have been using to the parts store to be tested today.

I still don't know if a 300 six or a V8 DSII box is the same as a 200 six box. Anyone?

I am also pretty confused with the red wire/white wire in the wiring diagrams. Because on my setup, the colors of the wires coming out of the box and the colors of the connector going into the box are reversed.... like I have the connector in backwards, but you physically can't plug the connector in backwards.

Could gas that has been sitting for 9 months keep it from running? Dad said it would probably work, I have my doubts.

 

[Eric Rose]

So One of our DS II boxes we were using tested good but the coil was toast.

So thinking I didn't have to buy another DS II box, I splurged on an MSD Blaster II coil.

Then I realized that the good DS II box was the one from my dad's V8 truck

So I guess I will keep the MSD coil and get another DS box later today.

I went in and re did my wiring using solder and heat-shrink for all the connections I could. If nothing else for peace of mind.

 

[Eric Rose]

We got another DS II box this afternoon. Spark is fine now.

We had the distributor installed to right on #1 at TDC. I put the distributor back in ahead of #1 it fired right up... for about 2 seconds, untill the gas we had used to prime it burned off

So now we're having a fuel problem. The YF is just not putting out any fuel. It has sat for the past 9 months so maybe the fuel inside turned to varnish? I took it apart expecting to find a dirt-dauber nest or something but its pretty clean inside.

 

[addo]

More likely the pump is not sucking, thus not replenishing the fuel. Fill the fuel line from the carby down to the pump, and make sure the entire run of line between pump and tank is intact (rubber links un-split, and properly clamped).

You can gravity feed a carb from a small inverted drink bottle with fuel hose jammed through the cap. Punch a small air hole in the base (now inverted, so it's the top) and just blank this hole with your finger when filling the bottle.

 

[Eric Rose]

The fuel pump is pumping fuel... we took the carb off and turned the motor over and I could see fuel coming out of the fuel line.

I'm pretty sure its the step-up pump. Its not functioning as smoothly as it should, and when I fill the fuel bowl and pump the linkage no fuel is coming out.

 

[Eric Rose]

Could I use a YFA from a big six with a little dremeling on the baseplate?

 

[mustang6]

Could I use a YFA from a big six with a little dremeling on the baseplate?

Yes, you can. It will probably run rich and have a hesitation on quick acceleration because the venturi is so large, but in my experience it will work.

 

[Eric Rose]

Could I use a YFA from a big six with a little dremeling on the baseplate?

Yes, you can. It will probably run rich and have a hesitation on quick acceleration because the venturi is so large, but in my experience it will work.

Could I fix the running rich by changing the jets?

The YF is surprisingly good for quick acceleration. I may also go with a progressive Holley 5200 (or its Weber DGV twin)

Has anyone had good luck with the reman carbs they carry at Autozone? They have the Holley brand name on them, even the carter/autolite/motorcraft ones...

 

[Eric Rose]

Since the YF wasn't pumping fuel, we tried it with this one (Holley 1946?) we just slapped it on there to see if the distributor/ignition problems were solved and to hear the engine start. We didn't plug all the vac. lines and it also leaks like a sieve. This carb has all the smog junk on it and also requires the EGR adapter on the log so we don't want to use it at all.

And here's the ignition. Note the resistor on the shock tower.

 

[60s Refugee]

That is sure 'nuff one ugly pile of carb there. You didn't say whether it started or not.
I have not tried any A.Z. rebuilts but I havn't heard anything bad about them, other than you gotta be careful of ANY rebuilt carb you might get.

Harry