They are very hard to remove...Soak with bp blaster or your favorite penetrant, use good, edged vice grips twist and pull..As I remember, they are an odd size do not try to force the wrong size...One on the pass side a punch can be used from the other side. May have to get someone with a lathe make some. You have a fork pivot in the bell housing, cannot see it? Make sure that the throw out bearing, fork are good, in place before sticking the trans in.
All Small Six Pilot Bearing Installation
- Thread starter 65 Mustang
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
Just checked one in a block and I get .371x .750 but better using the .370 than cracking the block with one that is to tight.
Test it in the other block where you can punch it back out.
The best tool I have found for gripping round objects or rounded fuel or trans. line fittings is a pair of "Channellock 410" parrot nose pliers.
They will loosen a rounded fuel or trans line fitting when a tubing wrench won't.
I won't try to remove a dowel pin on the block a have because the hardened teeth will damage the dowel pin.
The harder you pull these pliers the tighter they grip.
If the block was heated with a propane torch these pliers might remove a dowel pin. The damaged end might be filed then that end might be installed in the block. A better Idea would be to buy new dowel pins in advance.
Any way these pliers are great to have.
I see them for sale on Amazon. I bought mine from a Snap On Truck.
Channellock 410 parrot nose pliers.
Self Gripping Parrot Nose design ideal for round surfaces.
Right angle, laser heat-treated teeth grip better and last longer.
High-carbon C1080 steel for superior performance.
They will loosen a rounded fuel or trans line fitting when a tubing wrench won't.
I won't try to remove a dowel pin on the block a have because the hardened teeth will damage the dowel pin.
The harder you pull these pliers the tighter they grip.
If the block was heated with a propane torch these pliers might remove a dowel pin. The damaged end might be filed then that end might be installed in the block. A better Idea would be to buy new dowel pins in advance.
Any way these pliers are great to have.
I see them for sale on Amazon. I bought mine from a Snap On Truck.
Channellock 410 parrot nose pliers.
Self Gripping Parrot Nose design ideal for round surfaces.
Right angle, laser heat-treated teeth grip better and last longer.
High-carbon C1080 steel for superior performance.
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65 Mustang
Well-known member
Drag-200stang and 78_200_C4 thank you so much for all the info and measurements. Those Channellocks look very useful. I’ll have to keep them in mind for future projects.
So, both dowel pins were still in the 200 block I have. One of them I was able to bang out from the other side with a hammer and punch. I brought it down to my machine shop. He looked but didn’t have any exact matches. So, he is going to make two new ones for me. He said I should be able to pick them up tomorrow around 1:00 pm. That’s good because I plan to install the transmission on Sunday.
Drag-200stang- I just put the bellhousing on in that picture to make sure it fit ok. It’s off the car now. I do have a new fork and throw out bearing that I will be installing. Thanks for pointing that out, though.
Thanks again everyone. I’ll keep you posted and let you know how the install goes.
So, both dowel pins were still in the 200 block I have. One of them I was able to bang out from the other side with a hammer and punch. I brought it down to my machine shop. He looked but didn’t have any exact matches. So, he is going to make two new ones for me. He said I should be able to pick them up tomorrow around 1:00 pm. That’s good because I plan to install the transmission on Sunday.
Drag-200stang- I just put the bellhousing on in that picture to make sure it fit ok. It’s off the car now. I do have a new fork and throw out bearing that I will be installing. Thanks for pointing that out, though.
Thanks again everyone. I’ll keep you posted and let you know how the install goes.
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65 Mustang
Well-known member
Ok, got the dowel pins inserted and properly lined up the bellhousing. Thanks again for clueing me in to how important those dowel pins are. Didn’t realize it. So, after getting that all sorted out, I ran into another problem today while trying to install the transmission (3.03 3spd). I could not get the input shaft to insert all the way into the pilot bushing. I definitely went through the throw out bearing and the clutch. I used the alignment tool to center the clutch prior to fastening the pressure plate. At this point I’m thinking one of two things: 1.) Incorrect alignment tool (it did not fit snug into the pilot bearing), or 2.) incorrect size pilot bearing.
I had the clutch for this car rebuilt awhile back and only now got to this project. The alignment tool was included. It fits the clutch just fine. I know I should have checked that the pilot bearing fit over the input shaft before installing it, but I didn’t. I just assumed it was the correct one. I was under the impression it was being matched up from the old bearing. The I.D. of the old bearing measured .668 inches on my caliper. Does that sound right? Does anyone know the proper I.D. for the pilot bearing needed for a 3.03 manual going into a 200 ci block? Also, what about the specifications for a proper alignment tool for this job? Once again, thank you guys so much in advance. I’m really glad you’re out there and willing to share your knowledge and experience.
I had the clutch for this car rebuilt awhile back and only now got to this project. The alignment tool was included. It fits the clutch just fine. I know I should have checked that the pilot bearing fit over the input shaft before installing it, but I didn’t. I just assumed it was the correct one. I was under the impression it was being matched up from the old bearing. The I.D. of the old bearing measured .668 inches on my caliper. Does that sound right? Does anyone know the proper I.D. for the pilot bearing needed for a 3.03 manual going into a 200 ci block? Also, what about the specifications for a proper alignment tool for this job? Once again, thank you guys so much in advance. I’m really glad you’re out there and willing to share your knowledge and experience.
I get ,.670 on the pilot bearing on a 2.78 4 speed and I am sure that the 303 is the same, so that is not your problem if .668 size is in your crank. I make up go no go gages for things like this ..Find a socket that is a few thou's smaller, you can tape it up to get it closer, put it on an extension and see if the pilot is the right size.
I am cheap I use a 1/2 drive socket that happens to fit the pilot well and add some tape to the rear to bring it up to the disk size . and long extension
I am cheap I use a 1/2 drive socket that happens to fit the pilot well and add some tape to the rear to bring it up to the disk size . and long extension
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65 Mustang
Well-known member
That’s a great trick to check the size of the pilot bearing. I’ll try it tomorrow. The .668 measurement that I got was for the old bearing. I never checked the measurement on the new bearing. I strongly suspect the new bearing is not sized correctly. I’ll pick up a bearing tomorrow around the .668-.670 range. I assume that the pilot bearing inner diameter needs to be slightly larger than the tip of the input shaft. What, exactly, is the purpose of the pilot bearing? Is it there to keep the input shaft straight and true?
Yes, to support it at that end. Do not buy one till you check what you have...You may have to block up the engine and hookup the clutch linkage and have someone push on the clutch peddle while you wiggle the trans that last little bit into place. Sometimes turning the engine 90 degrees at a time and trying again helps. I measured .005 smaller on input shaft. These are used parts measurements. Use a good small flashlight to see what is up.
I cannot express how much caution you must use working under a car, make sure that it is impossible to fall on you.
I cannot express how much caution you must use working under a car, make sure that it is impossible to fall on you.
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Also Make Sure that your lifting the rear of the Transmission up enough so that input shaft will be going in straight into the pilot bearing.
65 Mustang
Well-known member
Ok. Thanks for info and helpful tips. I probably won’t be able to try again for a few days. I’ll let you know how it goes.
65 Mustang
Well-known member
The transmission has been installed. I was able to work on it yesterday. The problem turned out to be the size of the pilot bushing I originally installed. It was not the correct size. I removed it and tried to fit it over the input shaft on the transmission. It didn’t even make it past the tapered end. I should have checked fitment. Anyway, I went down to my local machine shop and explained the situation. The machinist was able to source the correct bushing for me. This time I checked and it went on correctly. So now the transmission is on. Still have to do a few other things before it will be ready to drive. Going to work on the clutch linkage today. Once again, thanks so much for all of the help and information.
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I have a part of my brain that is for ''do not do that again'' it has gotten so big that no wonder I cannot remember where I just put that item I just set down.
65 Mustang
Well-known member
Yeah, I will not be making that mistake again. That animated emoji completely captures how I was feeling.
