Progressive 5200H/W

L

LameHoof65

Famous Member
Guy never showed up for the H/W. So I am thinking about trying to rebuild it myself. Here are some pics, you folks tell me if you think it's worth a rebuild, how hard to do it and where I can find a kit?

Came off a Pinto out of the yard....





 
carb rebuilding is an easy task...just smells

get a gal bucket of carb cleaner to soak it in (after removing rubber and plastic items) let it sit overnight. meanwhile pick up a kit from teh parts store (they prob even have it in stock) it is pretty straightforward to do. if you have a compressor use it to blow out all the passages real good.
 
I have the same carb. If you get a rebuild kit let me know the part number and place you got it. I could use a replacement gasket between the lower and upper halves.

Thanks,
Greg

P.S. Has anyone connected a vacuum dource to the nipple connection by the fuel connection. As far as I can tell this is the vacuum source for the power valve. I ust wanted to see if I am correct?
 
does that carb say AUtolite or motorcraft on it?
its off the early pintos 2.0 L motor... 1971-73....after that they didnt use the screw in air cleaner studs, much less four of them.....

if it opens and closes its most likely a good rebuilder.


get me the numbers off the little tag and i will look up you kit.

Frank
 
all of my 5200 carbs have 2 "staggered" studs on them that are pressed in from teh bottom while the carb is apart (don't ask me how many times I have forgotten to put them in while rebuilding a carb) rebuilding a carb is pretty straightforward. break it all down and let it soak, clean with carb cleaner and compressed air and then reassemble
 
Frank it is a Motorcraft and the tag says:

022F 8C or D22F BC or some combination thereof; guessing I would say it is the latter,

underneath it looks like A2C22...

I did see where Autozone lists rebuild kits but they are a special order...price here looks like $15..Haven't called them---just looked it up on there website; they list a 1971 carb for the Pinto but nothing later....they differeniate whether the car had an A/C unit? I really didn't look to see if the one I took it off of had an A/C or not.
 
AC wont make a difference on the sellection...I will look it up tonight,,,I have the same books autozoo has....15 $ is about right and those kits cover diffrent years,,,

Frank
 
Frank I would appreciate the help if it's not too much trouble. A friend of mine said he had one similar to mine but it has an auto-choke---can I change this one over to automatic or is it too costly? Actually, I wouldn't mind a manual choke if that would be possible and cheaper. If not I have no real problem with the hot water method. I am looking at using this one at least for the start up after the rebuild. I figure it will be most likely to fire up faster than trying to tune in that holley 500 I have. I also, plan on using the vacuum advance/centrifugal distributor that came off of it initially. I don't want to spend my time trying wasteful starts and turns with my duraspark II setup and that holley...I want it to start on the first try or so to save my new cam. Again thanks for the help.
 
the number should be the D22F BC a none emissions carb, as simple as it gets. Same carb I'm planning on putting on my car... 72 Pinto carb

The AUto Zone carb kit is 96195 D ..not in stock but its a 20$ kit....

I broke in my motor with this same carb its will work fine just check the accellorator pump and the float and go...BTW use a little chap stick on the top gaskets and you might be able to reuse it with out damaging it....

Best of luck
Frank
 
I am running a similar carb for my 5200. I pulled the top and it was clean inside and I am getting a slight drip from the pump but I haven't rebuilt mine (has logged on 1000 miles so far)

they are really simple carbs to do. the worst part is just the choke linkage (kinda have to put it on as the top is dropped on the carb)
 
I'm glad you posted something about the choke....

Yes you can swap the water choke out for the electric..it does make it look cleaner..

Frank
 
Well, didn't get to the kit or the choke conversion today. My daughter needed me for something important and I spent the day with her. I think we both had a good time. At any rate I got to call around before the parts stores closed and here is what they said:

NAPA has the rebuild kit for $33
Autozone has it for $16
Oreilly's has it for $24

when I say "has" or properly "have" I mean they will special order it---though Oreilly's stuff is "Walker" stuff and they actually have one in their warehouse.

The only place that had a choke conversion was NAPA and it was for an electric to a manual...the folks at the other parts stores couldn't locate one.

Frank, you wouldn't happen to know where to get an automatic choke setup would you?

If not the guy at NAPA said he thought the manual conversion from electric would work on a water choke, amazingly he said the whole kit including linkage was only $17 something. He said I could bring my carb in and we could check it out. Maybe tomorrow if they are open.
 
See these kits and chokes on ebay all the time.
Went to Autozone here for a choke and they wanted $52. :shock:
$8.99 on ebay. :wink:
 
to tell the truth the better electric chokes are going to come off the newer modle ford carbs(76-82 2.3L)...they work better than the aftermarket versions.

Motormite book(the HELP section of most stores) shows one but its not as smooth to actuate as a stock manual choke.

JMO a used stock electric choke is just so cut and dry why mess with the others.

Frank
 
Made it to autozone and ordered the rebuild kit--will be here by wed. can start the rebuild next weekend. Looked for carburator cleaner and all they had was the spray stuff...any specific kind I should be looking for? Will go to the Pull-a-Part place maybe tomorrow afternoon and see if I can find one of those auto-chokes, I didn't go to the NAPA store.

How different do you think this linkage to the throttle will be in comparison to the Holley 500? Just wondering if I am going to have to modify 2 separate linkages, i'm pretty sure I will.
 
Just came from the Zone...they have chemtool in a can it should be on the top shelf above the chemicle shelf....but you can use the Value craft carb spray and a little compressed air and clean the heck out of that carb.... just removing the varnisand muck...but your carb look well for its age..

Good Luck
Frank
 
A little off subject here but, are you guys adapting this carb to the 200 motor with a clifford adaptor or are there other options?
 
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