Is there room to go with a 1 1/2 to 2 inch high on that carb spacer? Do you run a front sway bar? If so you could disconnect or remove it now or when you get to the track. Allows the front end to rise and transfer more weight to rear. A set of stiff 50/50 rear shocks helps and some 90 /10 or 80 /20 on front or just an old worn out set of shocks also helps front end rise. The front shocks are not something that you want to use for full time Street driving though. If you pre assembled them and made sure that your current shocks would unbolt before (clean up threads of dirt & rust etc.) then would be easy enough to change when you got to the track. You could also add some spring clamps to front section of rear leaf springs to stiffen them up some and decreases the wrap up from the torque you can make them out of some ¼ steel strap and drill a hole for a bolt on each end. Is a good move on the rear tire pressure also you can add some to front tires so they roll easier extra 5 psi or more. To take it further a tall narrow tire on a 15 x 4 rolls even easier too, less drag again not for full time street use cuts down on handling i.e. cornering. If you have the drum type brakes check to see that the shoes are not dragging and back them off until there is no drag when you get to the track. Shed as much weight as you can from front end and to the inside of cab i.e. spare tire, jack, tools and all other non-essentials. If you want to go even further put in just one bucket seat for you and remove the front bumper. Also check the front end alignment especially the toe in with steering box on height point (centered) ideal setting is with you or your equivalent weight on the seat and front end raised 1 inch with a 1/16 inch toe. Couple last ideas you could make a torque strap for engine from some 1/8 or 3/16 steel about an inch wide is good, cable or a chain works too this is so that your transferring all the torque it can to the chassis. If you know how to check your C4 trans band adjustments, with an adjustable trans module you can add a little firmer and quicker shift too, and you should only use the type F fluid less slippage. Hope some of this is useful to you if you have never run at the drags before can fill you in on the tech inspection, rules, staging, and cutting a good light etc.
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