Rebuilt engine won't start
- Thread starter electrorc
- Start date
electrorc
Well-known member
Yeah, I'll certainly be properly timing it with a light once I finish the cam break in so I can idle it. And I'll be sure to verify everything once again.
I ran it for another 10 mins or so before needing to shut it off this time. I ran it without the radiator cap, and everything was fine. No leaks (had some loose hose clamps earlier). But near the 10 minute mark, I noticed the radiator was steaming a bit and the temp gauge had climbed to around 3/4. I think that's why I had some of the leaks earlier, from it getting too warm.
It shouldn't be running that warm right now, should it? It has a new radiator, heater core, hoses, and a 195 thermostat. It's about 20 degrees outside. I didn't bother with setting a fan up to blow on the rad since it's so cold out. No shroud on the fan. Have some sort of distilled water/green coolant mix, not sure on proportion since I just refilled after the leaks and stuff.
I ran it for another 10 mins or so before needing to shut it off this time. I ran it without the radiator cap, and everything was fine. No leaks (had some loose hose clamps earlier). But near the 10 minute mark, I noticed the radiator was steaming a bit and the temp gauge had climbed to around 3/4. I think that's why I had some of the leaks earlier, from it getting too warm.
It shouldn't be running that warm right now, should it? It has a new radiator, heater core, hoses, and a 195 thermostat. It's about 20 degrees outside. I didn't bother with setting a fan up to blow on the rad since it's so cold out. No shroud on the fan. Have some sort of distilled water/green coolant mix, not sure on proportion since I just refilled after the leaks and stuff.
Ludwig,
Apologies, definitely ready your post wrong. One of those days for me. Thought you were talking about the Mark on the Balancer drifting out... derr
Electrorc,
You ran it with the cap off? Did you look in to see fluid moving through the radiator? I think most people here would suggest a 185* Tstat, but that is personal prefrence and a minimal issue, so long as it opened for you.
Also the fan might be necessary when not moving in any temperature, especially with the extra internal frictions of a freshly built engine.
Apologies, definitely ready your post wrong. One of those days for me. Thought you were talking about the Mark on the Balancer drifting out... derr
Electrorc,
You ran it with the cap off? Did you look in to see fluid moving through the radiator? I think most people here would suggest a 185* Tstat, but that is personal prefrence and a minimal issue, so long as it opened for you.
Also the fan might be necessary when not moving in any temperature, especially with the extra internal frictions of a freshly built engine.
Before you try to break in the cam you should set the timing to 8 to 10 BTDC and tune as the engine as close as you can if it's retarded or advanced too much it will run hot. If you have a shroud it would be good to use it helps pull the air over the rad core to cool it.
For it steaming and getting hot, I wonder if you might have just purged a bubble in the cooling jacket. I let it run and watch the coolant. Periodically there will be a big rush or bubble and the level in the radiator falls. This will be very hot. The temp will cool down and get more consistent when the cooling system is all filled up. Even after you are satisfied with the radiator fill, you need to check it now and again when it is cool to make sure it is filled all the way.
electrorc
Well-known member
Okay yeah the bubble thing definitely makes sense since everything was totally dry before a few days ago.
I tried adjusting the timing again the same way as last night, though in the correct direction this time. Think I got it where it needs to be for around 10 BTDC, and about where I remember it from before. I need to shift the whole distributor sometime though since that puts the vacuum can right up against the block and makes the bolt even more difficult to get to.
It didn't go so well this time though, I'm afraid. It was running rougher than it had been and shaking a bit, sort of sounded like it was missing or something. I played with the distributor a bit as it was running to see if it would smooth out and it didn't. Every time I checked in on the gauges they were fine and the temp was down pretty low. Then I started coming around again and my mom said the oil pressure had started to drop. I looked and it was at about 20, the temp was back up to 3/4, so I told her to shut it off. She said the oil pressure started to drop around the same time the temp started going up. Any ideas? I had just put the rad cap on a minute or two before that and didn't get a chance to check whether the coolant was moving.
Oil level is fine, oil looks okay but there was a bit of milky/foamy at the very top of the dipstick. Guessing that's just from it being at 2500 rpm, but I won't say for sure. Upper rad hose was pretty warm, lower was warm but not as much so. So I'm guessing that means not a whole lot was flowing through the rad during that time.
Sorry for all of the questions, just trying to get it running right and don't want to mess anything up.
Thanks!
Edit: Oops I need to keep track of things better. Had the choke on to start it that time and forgot to take it off. Probably at least part of why it was running rough.
Edit again: Wow I'm not thinking well these past few days it seems. Lower rad hose should be cooler than upper since that's after it's passed through the radiator. Since the upper is hot, the thermostat should be opening and functioning I believe.
Another edit: Ran it for another 5. Remembered the choke this time and it was a whole lot smoother. Temperature stayed low-mid for a while, then moved up to 3/4 and stayed. Guessing that's probably around the 195 mark, but not for sure.
The oil pressure is still a bit weird though. It goes to 50 at 2-2500 rpm after starting. It'll stay there for a few mins and maybe go up a bit. But then as it gets warmer, it drops. I killed it when it hit about 22 psi. With the 10 psi for every 1000 rpm rule, that's still okay, but it seems like a big drop to me, especially since it didn't do it the first time or two I ran it.
I tried adjusting the timing again the same way as last night, though in the correct direction this time. Think I got it where it needs to be for around 10 BTDC, and about where I remember it from before. I need to shift the whole distributor sometime though since that puts the vacuum can right up against the block and makes the bolt even more difficult to get to.
It didn't go so well this time though, I'm afraid. It was running rougher than it had been and shaking a bit, sort of sounded like it was missing or something. I played with the distributor a bit as it was running to see if it would smooth out and it didn't. Every time I checked in on the gauges they were fine and the temp was down pretty low. Then I started coming around again and my mom said the oil pressure had started to drop. I looked and it was at about 20, the temp was back up to 3/4, so I told her to shut it off. She said the oil pressure started to drop around the same time the temp started going up. Any ideas? I had just put the rad cap on a minute or two before that and didn't get a chance to check whether the coolant was moving.
Oil level is fine, oil looks okay but there was a bit of milky/foamy at the very top of the dipstick. Guessing that's just from it being at 2500 rpm, but I won't say for sure. Upper rad hose was pretty warm, lower was warm but not as much so. So I'm guessing that means not a whole lot was flowing through the rad during that time.
Sorry for all of the questions, just trying to get it running right and don't want to mess anything up.
Thanks!
Edit: Oops I need to keep track of things better. Had the choke on to start it that time and forgot to take it off. Probably at least part of why it was running rough.
Edit again: Wow I'm not thinking well these past few days it seems. Lower rad hose should be cooler than upper since that's after it's passed through the radiator. Since the upper is hot, the thermostat should be opening and functioning I believe.
Another edit: Ran it for another 5. Remembered the choke this time and it was a whole lot smoother. Temperature stayed low-mid for a while, then moved up to 3/4 and stayed. Guessing that's probably around the 195 mark, but not for sure.
The oil pressure is still a bit weird though. It goes to 50 at 2-2500 rpm after starting. It'll stay there for a few mins and maybe go up a bit. But then as it gets warmer, it drops. I killed it when it hit about 22 psi. With the 10 psi for every 1000 rpm rule, that's still okay, but it seems like a big drop to me, especially since it didn't do it the first time or two I ran it.
Hi electrorc.Use a cooking thermometer in the radiator to get a good check on coolant temps.Just leave the cap off,and stick it in the coolant.On the timing goof.Don`t worry.We all make mistakes.My Father used to say that anyone that said that they never made a mistake is either a liar OR has never done anything.Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
stu in wichita
Well-known member
It's not uncommon for a new engine to run hot during cam break-in. The extended run at 2500 rpm or so makes a lot of heat, but there isn't enough air passing through the radiator to remove it. On a lot of cars, the fan is barely adequate for idle conditions - at higher rpm, you're usually moving fast enough to get the needed air flow.
It's a good idea to put a large fan in front of the radiator to help prevent this. Plus, keep an eye on the temp and shut it down before it gets too hot.
-Stu
It's a good idea to put a large fan in front of the radiator to help prevent this. Plus, keep an eye on the temp and shut it down before it gets too hot.
-Stu
Gene Fiore
Famous Member
When I did my cam break-in I had a large box fan blowing on the radiator plus had my electric fan running and it still got too hot to do the break-in all at one time. I had to shut down, cool off, and resume the break-in. No big deal.
electrorc
Well-known member
Ah alrighty. I added a regular box fan on high and that seemed to help keep it around 1/2 on the gauge. I just figured with it being so cold out it'd be fine--guess not. So that should all be okay.
Now just to figure out my clutch. I'm running a diaphragm listed for a '79. Pedal sticks to the floor. Just tried putting it in gear and it wouldn't do it. Probably just a free play adjustment, I hope.
Now just to figure out my clutch. I'm running a diaphragm listed for a '79. Pedal sticks to the floor. Just tried putting it in gear and it wouldn't do it. Probably just a free play adjustment, I hope.
electrorc
Well-known member
powerband":984k6180 said:
Good idea. It's still below freezing here though, so that'd turn my driveway into even more of a sheet of ice.
Anyway, looks like any heating problems are just a result of lack of air, and I've run it for at least half an hour now. Sounds pretty good.
I know this isn't the right section for this, but I may as well ask here. I got the clutch to release and go into gear. The clutch doesn't do anything until it's just about to the floor, so that's like 4" of free play. The adjustment nut is just about to the end, which should be minimum free travel.
I have a '65 with stock linkage, but the bellhousing and clutch fork are both '67. Do I need the longer '67 clutch release rod (the part that goes between the z-bar and the clutch fork)? Or adjustment?
Edit: Well, I'm not driving it back to school (once again...). I did manage to get out of the driveway and go around the block though. It's running fairly rough, brakes still have a couple leaks (swapped to the dual master, and the stainless lines aren't sealing well so far), and it has some idle issues. The DMV is closed (I need to get an inspection and renew my plates) and my classes resume on Tuesday. I really appreciate all of the help you guys have given me, both this past week or so and over the past couple of years. Hopefully I'll be able to fine tune and finish it on spring break.
And just because, here's a nice picture of it:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/27162877@N07/6692151671/
Gene Fiore
Famous Member
Very nice!! 
:wow:
:wow:
Sharp 
Very nice.Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
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