Resistor wire/resistor coil

[btaviation]

First time post. New to ford six. New 65 Mustang owner. I bought a 65 Mustang coupe for my wife equipped with C4, 200 six, pony interior with full gauge dash. It has new Load-o-mastic, new Autolite 1100 w/scv, new dist cap, new points, rotor, condenser, wires, new voltage reg, new fuel pump, filter, gas tank, and less than 2k on engine/Trans. Right now, I initially, got it running great, drove it about 100 miles total before it began to run erratic. The ammeter is wiggling erratically, the engine seems to lose all power to ignition system as it gets heat soaked. When running it runs great. But now it will idle well and then intermittently will quit. Now it will start but not get out of drive way. I changed points, coil, condenser to see if it would improve but no joy. I have tried running with coil with now internal resistor and a coil with internal resistor. Runs the same...great when ignition is getting power, but seems to be suffering from some sort of wiring issue related to resistor wire. Do I run with or without resistor coil? How do I check resistor wire? What's up with ammeter anomaly? Thank you!

 

[bubba22349]

First time post. New to ford six. New 65 Mustang owner. I bought a 65 Mustang coupe for my wife equipped with C4, 200 six, pony interior with full gauge dash. It has new Load-o-mastic, new Autolite 1100 w/scv, new dist cap, new points, rotor, condenser, wires, new voltage reg, new fuel pump, filter, gas tank, and less than 2k on engine/Trans. Right now, I initially, got it running great, drove it about 100 miles total before it began to run erratic. The ammeter is wiggling erratically, the engine seems to lose all power to ignition system as it gets heat soaked. When running it runs great. But now it will idle well and then intermittently will quit. Now it will start but not get out of drive way. I changed points, coil, condenser to see if it would improve but no joy. I have tried running with coil with now internal resistor and a coil with internal resistor. Runs the same...great when ignition is getting power, but seems to be suffering from some sort of wiring issue related to resistor wire. Do I run with or without resistor coil? How do I check resistor wire? What's up with ammeter anomaly? Thank you!

You don't need a resistor coil with the resistor wire you need a stock spec coil. You can check the resistor wire by using a Volt / Ohm meter with the key on in run position you should see a reading of from 6 to 9 volts. You can get new resistor wires at most Auto parts stores. Remove the Alternator plus the Battery and have them both tested out (it's free at many Auto parts). Other posable trouble areas to check are the wiring connections it's very important that they are clean and tight. It also important to check that all your grounds are clean and tight too, start at the battery and work back. Lastly also check the voltage regulator wiring connections and regulator itself if it's an original type the contacts may be dirty and or sticking. Good luck

 

[drag-200stang]

Try replacing the ing. switch. key and a paper clip. Had one that acted like that.

 

[btaviation]

Thank you both for your prompt reply. Will do what has been suggested.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, it might be a loose nut on the back of the ignition switch. All the "crank" and "key on" current flows through this heavy wire. Look closely at this wire. Good luck

 

[btaviation]

I followed your advice but nothing seemed to help. Grounds cleaned up, ignition switch checked, voltage to coil good...and it got so bad, it would not start. I was able to determine no issues with resistor wire. So, it had to be in the ignition/distributer. Even ran a jumper wire from battery to coil. Still would not start or run. I took out the new points and condenser reinstalling the old points and condenser. It started. Still have the occasional erratic firing plus it really gets bad under load. But it is now running and idling. Question? Who makes a decent set of points and functioning condenser? I have put in one set from Autozone and one set from Bumper to Bumper. I noticed in the trunk of the car, another 2 sets that looked almost new. Yet the only set that worked was the oldest and clearly had been used awhile. It appears one has to buy these by the dozen and hope to get lucky that one may work. Never have I seen such a failure rate? What about a Pertronix Ignitor? Or just find a Duraspark set up? I really spent time and money to match up this new Load-O-magic with the Autolite 1100 making sure no vacuum leaks, everything grounded, timing set, etc and find out I can't get it to run for a lack of decent points. Need your feedback and advice. This makes a Group 19 tunnel ram on my 70 AMC Rebel Machine with dual AFB's a piece of cake. Signed...Dumbfounded

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, I use a brand name, probably Standard. I've gotten rotors that do not fit very well but gasket silicone fixed that. I know a lot of Fords are running Proteomics. Good luck

 

[bubba22349]

check the distribors lead in wire from the coil these can get brittle with old age and be broken internally. Also check the distribor shaft for exsesive side play IE Try pushing it towards engine block and then pull it back towards you. It should not have very much play in it and if that top bushing is real sloppy it changes the point dwell excessively in real extreme cases then the engine won't even start. Also make sure the distribors internal ground wire is in good condistion clean and tight make sure that the Condenser is also grounding to the point plate.

Points are so simple my guess though is that they are not the real problem! Even so unless I can't help it I don't like to use any of the cheap off brand type point sets from some the the bargain auto parts stores they just don't last or perform very well. NAPA (is my preference) made a very good set of points as well as all of their other ignistion parts in the Echelon line. X2 Standard were also good. Good luck

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, x2 looking everything in the distributor, but that does not address the crazy amp gauge. Also check the charging system connections. I went with an electronic voltage regulator. I believe the heavy wire from the ignition switch runs through the loop on the back of the amp gauge. Good luck

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, make sure you have 13.5 - 14 volts at the battery when running. What happens if you turn on the headlights and heater? I would fully charge the battery and unplug the voltage regulator. If it runs good the regulator is probably bad. I think maybe something is grounding. Good luck

 

[bmbm40]

That sure is a nice Mustang you have the 65 and 66 are my favorites.
If it was me I would go Pertronix at a minimum or DSII/1100 or 1101. Unless you are keeping original. You can keep the old components and put them back on later if you want.
If this is a dd even more so will you enjoy it.

 

[chad]

"…with dual AFB's…"
U put 2 carbs on a 390?
what's the tq & HP ratings for sompin like THAT?

 

[btaviation]

The Load-o-matic distributer is brand new, along with fuel pump, Autolite 1100, cap, rotor wires, condenser, voltage reg, coil. The wiring is original including the resistor wire, ignition switch, and everything behind the dash and basically through out the car. I did clean all the grounds firewall forward. Like most Mustangs, I have a leaky windshield which I will remove and resell. So, this leakage is not helping tracking down the electrical gremlins. But I will double check the voltage reg. again because ever since we bought the car, the ammeter definitely has been erratic. Seems to be charging but you can see the lights get brighter or dimmer following the dancing ammeter. Car has run cool in this 100-115 heat indexes but this kind of heat will flush out any electrical anomalies as well. I truly appreciate all the help and input. Keep the advice and ideas coming. This is our first Mustang. We also have a 63 Studebaker Lark, 259V8, 3spd OD that is now running and after the last brake line fabricated, will be on the road for the first time in 20+ years next week. After owning the 70 Rebel Machine for over 25 years, it was sold. It was a 390, 4spd, 3:91, Detroit Locker, P/S, PDB car. I had driven it with everything from stock to a tunnel ram set up but always street able. Street trim it was a solid 12.60 car. Caution to the wind, uncorked, slicks best et was 11:79. Not too shabby for a 3800lb car. At first we thought of putting in a 260 or 289 in the Mustang. But it seems a bit of an oddball with the 200 six, C4, with original pony interior, gages, full console, wire wheel covers etc making it look almost like a GT. When I saw this forum and the performance you folks were getting from the six, we decided to keep it looking original outside but be a surprise performer with the six. Besides, I always enjoyed going fast in more odd or less known cars. So, this Mustang is in that sort mindset. Once again thanks for your ideas and encouragement.

 

[btaviation]

After checking as much wiring as I could, grounds etc., I installed another set of new points, reset timing, and Mustang ran excellent...for about 10 miles...then it began to miss fire, back fire, and barely made it home. The only thing I can think of is my coil is getting heat soaked then failing or my condenser is doing like wise. Resistor wire checked good, the Load-O- Matic and it's black lead is new. I cleaned dizzy, made sure ground is good, black wire to coil is new. New cap,rotor, wires, coil, current condenser are new. However, I did not replace the condenser when I replaced the points. As a result, I can only think it can be coil or condenser at this point. When it ran, it ran great...not even a hint of misfire or even off idle stumbling. Smooth as an EFI until something warmed up. Any ideas?

 

[RichCreations]

After checking as much wiring as I could, grounds etc., I installed another set of new points, reset timing, and Mustang ran excellent...for about 10 miles...then it began to miss fire, back fire, and barely made it home. The only thing I can think of is my coil is getting heat soaked then failing or my condenser is doing like wise. Resistor wire checked good, the Load-O- Matic and it's black lead is new. I cleaned dizzy, made sure ground is good, black wire to coil is new. New cap,rotor, wires, coil, current condenser are new. However, I did not replace the condenser when I replaced the points. As a result, I can only think it can be coil or condenser at this point. When it ran, it ran great...not even a hint of misfire or even off idle stumbling. Smooth as an EFI until something warmed up. Any ideas?

I put money on a failing condenser (had exact problem before)...

 

[DannyG]

When it's running poorly, check the spark.
Hot snappy blue spark, or weak yellow ?
Keep us posted,
DannyG

 

[B RON CO]

Hi again, X2 I would suspect the condenser. Make sure you have the correct spark plugs, I like the regular Motorcraft BSF82C. If your coil has a tach wire unhook it for now. Don't forget to put a little lube on the rubbing block on the points. Good luck

 

[btaviation]

Hello all,
I changed the condenser and voila, the car ran great. Reset timing with timing light. So far so good. It took a total of 5 condensers and 3 sets of points to get it reliable. Put about 200 miles on it in 90-100 degree heat. No real problems. I still have a little surging just off idle or very light throttle. Under any kind of load it runs nice. If I try to get on it to force a down shift, it has a bad hesitation. When string timing, I am well above the timing tab. When setting it in the middle of the tab, it seems to make the off idle surging worse. I am assuming it is currently running well advanced. No pinging right now. So, I am going to incrementally back it down and test drive it after each change. Any comments or advise? Thanks for all your help...Jim

 

[chad]

Some of us like the DSII and a YF or nonSCV 1100/1101 etc for these very reasons.
Pretty inconspicuous if concerned abt non-oe looks.
Available. reliable, increased pep, inexpensive...

 

[bubba22349]

Hello all,
I changed the condenser and voila, the car ran great. Reset timing with timing light. So far so good. It took a total of 5 condensers and 3 sets of points to get it reliable. Put about 200 miles on it in 90-100 degree heat. No real problems. I still have a little surging just off idle or very light throttle. Under any kind of load it runs nice. If I try to get on it to force a down shift, it has a bad hesitation. When string timing, I am well above the timing tab. When setting it in the middle of the tab, it seems to make the off idle surging worse. I am assuming it is currently running well advanced. No pinging right now. So, I am going to incrementally back it down and test drive it after each change. Any comments or advise? Thanks for all your help...Jim

On the Surging and Hesitation you will now need to look into the carb settings like the choke setting, the float level, accelerator pump shot and its timing. Start by making sure that all the carb settings are to factory specs to baseline it, then tell us what it runs like. Good luck