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Anonymous
Guest
When Replacing the head, what other upgrades should I do while I have the head off? I heard camshaft and Valve springs. What kind and anything else?
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Anonymous
Guest
correct head gasket...start looking now. someone here has them...
Howdy SSM:
The critical thing is to, at least, maintain your stock compression ratio. Please reread the sticky post at the top of this column. The big difference will be the head gasket you will likely have to use on reassembly. The other difference will be the volume of the combustion chamber. Know that your stock head will likely have a 52 cc chamber volume. A post-'69 head will likely have a 62 cc chamber volume. If you don't compensate for the difference you will lose power. Any head after '75 will have hardened seats and the largest stock valves.
Slade hit the high points. I would add having the intake valves back cut. This operation adds a 4th angle to the port side of the valve, effectively opening the valve slightly sooner, and lightening it.
A valve job gasket kit will include new valve stem seals. Be sure to use them.
While the head is dis-assembled and at the machine shop take the down time to thoroughly clean the rocker arm assembly. There are two oil holes in each rocker arm- one through the barrel to the rocker shaft at about 10:00 when viewed from the front of the engine. And another from the push rod side at about 3:00. Make sure these holes are clean and clear. Also thoroughly clean the inside of the shaft. Inspect the ball ends of the pushrods for any wear patterns other than a nice, shiny round ball end.
I would suggest that you consider adding adjustible rocker arms to the new rebuilt head. The rebuild and compensation machining should actually tighten your lifters and non-adjustible rocker arms, but I like the adjustibility feature to be able to fine tune.
If you have the time and the where-with-all, it is useful to smooth and polish the combustion chambers, and to do a little blending in the ports. No need to remove alot of material, just blend the transitions from cast to machined surfaces. The three angle valve job will be the biggest contributor.
Make sure the exhaust manifold port windows are at least as large as the exhaust gasket in the gasket kit. Use the gaskets as a template. Make sure the exhaust manifold outlet is a full 2" and unrestricted. Make sure the exhaust manifold has no cracks and that the mating surface is flat and true.
I could be more specific if I knew what head (casting #) you are swapping to and where you live. It is very helpful, when giving advice to know a locale. Elevation, climate, trans type and gearing are all useful to know when determining a CR goal.
Here's hoping this is the kind of information your need.
Adios, David
The critical thing is to, at least, maintain your stock compression ratio. Please reread the sticky post at the top of this column. The big difference will be the head gasket you will likely have to use on reassembly. The other difference will be the volume of the combustion chamber. Know that your stock head will likely have a 52 cc chamber volume. A post-'69 head will likely have a 62 cc chamber volume. If you don't compensate for the difference you will lose power. Any head after '75 will have hardened seats and the largest stock valves.
Slade hit the high points. I would add having the intake valves back cut. This operation adds a 4th angle to the port side of the valve, effectively opening the valve slightly sooner, and lightening it.
A valve job gasket kit will include new valve stem seals. Be sure to use them.
While the head is dis-assembled and at the machine shop take the down time to thoroughly clean the rocker arm assembly. There are two oil holes in each rocker arm- one through the barrel to the rocker shaft at about 10:00 when viewed from the front of the engine. And another from the push rod side at about 3:00. Make sure these holes are clean and clear. Also thoroughly clean the inside of the shaft. Inspect the ball ends of the pushrods for any wear patterns other than a nice, shiny round ball end.
I would suggest that you consider adding adjustible rocker arms to the new rebuilt head. The rebuild and compensation machining should actually tighten your lifters and non-adjustible rocker arms, but I like the adjustibility feature to be able to fine tune.
If you have the time and the where-with-all, it is useful to smooth and polish the combustion chambers, and to do a little blending in the ports. No need to remove alot of material, just blend the transitions from cast to machined surfaces. The three angle valve job will be the biggest contributor.
Make sure the exhaust manifold port windows are at least as large as the exhaust gasket in the gasket kit. Use the gaskets as a template. Make sure the exhaust manifold outlet is a full 2" and unrestricted. Make sure the exhaust manifold has no cracks and that the mating surface is flat and true.
I could be more specific if I knew what head (casting #) you are swapping to and where you live. It is very helpful, when giving advice to know a locale. Elevation, climate, trans type and gearing are all useful to know when determining a CR goal.
Here's hoping this is the kind of information your need.
Adios, David
A
Anonymous
Guest
David,
Thanks a milion for the info. I am new in the restoration area and I just want to make sure I do everything correctly. I am not sure exactly which head I am going to swap to. If there is one that is superior to others available, that will be the one I use (as you mentioned, '75 or later, not counting the Oz). I live in St. Louis. I have recently become acquainted with my local machine shop. They seem very respectable and professional. What about a new camshaft? Is it better to do this now, while the engine is in pieces?
Steve
Thanks a milion for the info. I am new in the restoration area and I just want to make sure I do everything correctly. I am not sure exactly which head I am going to swap to. If there is one that is superior to others available, that will be the one I use (as you mentioned, '75 or later, not counting the Oz). I live in St. Louis. I have recently become acquainted with my local machine shop. They seem very respectable and professional. What about a new camshaft? Is it better to do this now, while the engine is in pieces?
Steve
A
Anonymous
Guest
First of all...WELCOME! I noticed this is your fifth posting on the forum. It's a great place for advice, mechanical and personal.
Secondly, Slades right about swapping camshafts. I tried what I thought was the easy way - removing part of the front end. Big mistake. I created a bigger mess than probably necessary. So, pull the engine - it's easier than what most think.
As far as camshafts go, I'd stay with an advertised duration of 264 degrees or less. Anything more and your idle might be too loopy for your tastes. Sure you can get more power at higher rpms but ....
Also, have the cylinder head milled to lower your compression ratio when you get that newer head. I'd go with a late seventies model, just like David suggested. This way you already have the hardened seats and larger valves. The only thing missing would be the angle job.
Well, I've blabbed enough. Good luck and post some pictures of your ride!
-Chris
Secondly, Slades right about swapping camshafts. I tried what I thought was the easy way - removing part of the front end. Big mistake. I created a bigger mess than probably necessary. So, pull the engine - it's easier than what most think.
As far as camshafts go, I'd stay with an advertised duration of 264 degrees or less. Anything more and your idle might be too loopy for your tastes. Sure you can get more power at higher rpms but ....
Also, have the cylinder head milled to lower your compression ratio when you get that newer head. I'd go with a late seventies model, just like David suggested. This way you already have the hardened seats and larger valves. The only thing missing would be the angle job.
Well, I've blabbed enough. Good luck and post some pictures of your ride!
-Chris
A
Anonymous
Guest
I don't quite know if I am ready to pull the motor. But my work recently opened a rental center with engine hoists and such. So the project may be in my sights. Where can I find info on pulling a motor?
Steve
Steve
A
Anonymous
Guest
Tell you what...I'll gather some of my old photos I took when I pulled my engine. I'll put together an album of sorts illustrating what you need to unbolt and/or remove. I'll send something to you in the next couple of days.
-Chris
-Chris
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Anonymous
Guest
I appreciate that, Chris. Pictures are worth a thousand words, especially when working on cars.
Thanks, Steve
Thanks, Steve
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Anonymous
Guest
Oh, one more thing. What type of transmission do you have attached to the 200? Auto or manual?
-Chris
-Chris
Already have the pictures:
http://www.kastang.net/engineremoval1.html
Personally, buy the lift. Most rental centers want $50 a day. You'll need it for at least 2 days (one for removal, one for installation...and if you're me...2 more days to repeat because of problems). That's $100 minimum. You can spend $200 total and own the thing.
Slade
http://www.kastang.net/engineremoval1.html
Personally, buy the lift. Most rental centers want $50 a day. You'll need it for at least 2 days (one for removal, one for installation...and if you're me...2 more days to repeat because of problems). That's $100 minimum. You can spend $200 total and own the thing.
Slade
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Anonymous
Guest
Okay Slade, just steel my thunder@!?
Seriously, your explanation is much better than what I would I thought about creating! Steve...use his.
-Chris
Seriously, your explanation is much better than what I would I thought about creating! Steve...use his.
-Chris
